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Thread: 05 klr 250 (battery won't stay charged) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-19-2013 08:43 AM
Damocles Oh, yes; should have referred you to Tom Schmitz' excellent post on Carb Overhaul:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=19026

The videos show a CVK40 carburetor, but . . . it's VERY similar to your CVK34.

Good luck!

==================

If you have an interest in the "how" and "why" of the carburetor, I'll refer you to this link:

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm
10-18-2013 06:56 PM
Damocles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauryo View Post
how do i measure the float at 17 mm? i never did this before. i am still a newbie with this.
Best bet; buy a KLR600 Service Manual and the KLR250 Supplement from Kawasaki.

Alternatively, buy the Clymer pre-2007 KLR650 Service Manual in lieu of the KLR600 "base" manual.

The procedure's too complex and arcane for a post, I think.

Here goes a novel way to CHECK the float level; connect a clear plastic hose to the dump nozzle on the float bowl; bend the tube into a U-shape with its open end upward; with the petcock ON and the drain screw open, observe the height of the fuel meniscus in the tube--should be right about the level of the junction between the carburetor fuel bowl and the carburetor body.

If that ain't it, the float valve tang must be bent for adjustment; consult a manual for images and details; it's pretty straightforward and intuitive.

All that said, your float level's probably o.k.; if you're guzzling too much fuel, the float valve's probably not seating/sealing properly.
10-18-2013 06:25 PM
Mauryo how do i measure the float at 17 mm? i never did this before. i am still a newbie with this.
10-18-2013 06:10 PM
Damocles My recommendation: Remove carb; disassemble; clean; adjust; reassemble; reinstall.

Tom Schmitz has an EXCELLENT video clip series on this very website, in the, "How To" forum, I think, entitled: "Carb Overhaul."

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=19026

Make sure the float valve seals; I think float height is around 17 mm.
10-18-2013 03:54 PM
Mauryo So i figured it out!!!! It is the carb getting to much fuel and flooding out. How do i adjust how much fuel is allowed in the carb?
10-18-2013 03:39 PM
Mauryo i have figured it out. it is not an electrical issue. my battery was just dying from leaving the lights on for so long.

So i just got the bike running, and then it did it again it shut off. so i drained the carb and tried it again. and it started right up.

how do i adjust my carb to take in less fuel?
10-18-2013 12:27 PM
Damocles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauryo View Post
I will retry this test when i get out of work. So i am disconnecting the battery completely and then putting the positive lead from my ohm meter to the positive battery, and the negative to the frame? I cannot keep the bike running long enough to test anything electrical while its running.
Right; at least, it seems to me: with everything OFF, multi-meter set on OHMS, the disconnected battery positive cable and the frame should show an open circuit, as in, "infinity" resistance.

If a low-resistance connection appears, "we've got trouble, right here in River City . . ." (from, "The Music Man").
10-18-2013 09:01 AM
Mauryo I will retry this test when i get out of work. So i am disconnecting the battery completely and then putting the positive lead from my ohm meter to the positive battery, and the negative to the frame? I cannot keep the bike running long enough to test anything electrical while its running.
10-18-2013 08:04 AM
Damocles The test (continuity between positive battery cable and ground) was for a short-circuit; not for testing the battery.

If your engine runs at all, chances are your exciter coil on your stator is o.k. Power coil? Don't know if the rectifier/regulator's all right. Disconnecting the rectifier/regulator, you should measure alternating current across the power coil winding when the engine runs.
10-17-2013 10:03 PM
Mauryo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Could be the stator, or the rectifier/regulator, or a short-circuit in your wiring.

The voltage produced at various rpm would be an interesting indication of your electrical charging/storage system health. Also, continuity between the positive battery connection (disconnected from the battery terminal post) and ground, with the ignition key OFF (measured with an ohm-meter).

Fortunately, it runs! The ignition circuit is powered by the exciter coil of the stator; no involvement with the battery circuit. Starting and running remain independent of battery condition.

-----------------------

Where ARE my manners? Welcome to the forum, Mauryo; KLR250s FOREVER!
damocles, thanks for welcoming me. soon i will fill out my info and get more into this forum. i have been extremely busy with work. Just replaced the magneto/stator what ever people want to call it. got nothing. tried your test batterie is out of the question its a good battery. so i am noticing alot of white smoke when my bike is running(for the short time that it does). what does this indicate?
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