|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-26-2015 02:05 PM|
I like the idea of using the car battery to help the bike battery. I helps to eliminate the battery from the equation.
How did the carburetor cleaning go? What did the float bowl and jets look like? Did you manage to squirt carb cleaner through all the small passages?
Now might be a good time to try a shot of starting fluid in the filter box.
I use the $22 compression tester from Harbor freight. It seems fine for occasionally use. http://www.harborfreight.com/compres...-pc-69885.html
|03-26-2015 08:46 AM|
Thanks for the info pdwestman. I have bought and tried a new spark plug. I also charged my bike battery. The spark was very poor and intermittent and the battery died very quickly. Then I connected my car battery to the bike and pushed the starter. I got a much better and more regular spark on the sparkplug. However, the bike still wouldnt start.
Not sure what to check next. I dont have a compression tester/gauge. I will buy a new battery and then check.
|03-25-2015 11:08 AM|
Do you have a engine compression gauge? If so check the Cold Cranking Compression, with Wide-open throttle and crank until there is No More Gain on the gauge. If less than 80 psi, when was your last valve tappet adjustment?
Too low of CCC will cause poor electric start ability. Push-starting/roll-starting speeds up the engine rpm/ traps more compression and starts, eventually even that method fails.
But buy a new a spark plug and recheck spark. KLR ignition failures seem to be quite rare, IME.
One can do the Compression test and Spark re-check at the same time.
|03-25-2015 08:18 AM|
|darrent||After a break in attending to my sick bike, I had another look/tinker this weekend. The spark plug is only sparking intermittently. I guess that narrows down the areas to look at. Would the ignition coil cause an intermittent spark? What should I look at next?|
|03-02-2015 04:29 AM|
Roll starting down a hill, no pushing.
The side stand switch has been bypassed, so that is not a potential cause.
The bike does not run brilliantly when going.
Have removed carb. Will clean and let you know what it looks like inside
|02-28-2015 03:16 PM|
If the engine starts by push starting it and then runs and idles properly, it is hard to suspect a problem with the carburetor or the gas. Does it run and idle properly?
Are you push starting it down a steep hill with three guys helping to push or just normally on flat ground by yourself?
I can make a case for one of the diodes not working which would let the starter turn but not let the ignition fire in neutral with the side stand down. In this case with the side stand up it could battery start in neutral or push start but die when the stand is put down even in neutral. Will it keep running in neutral with the stand down after push starting?
|02-28-2015 11:09 AM|
Many lawn equipment dealers sell a higher octane gas that does not have any alcohol.
While this is too expensive to run everyday. If you used a quart as the last gas that you use before putting the bike away for the winter it could solve a lot of problems.
|02-28-2015 10:02 AM|
Lol, I blame ethanol!
Seriously though, I have a small snowblower that sometimes gets contankerous if I forget to drain the fuel in the spring when I try to start it in the fall. So far simply draining the float bowl before starting has got it going, but I suspect I will be going in to clean jets soon.
|02-28-2015 08:57 AM|
Originally Posted by darrent View Post
If your bike "push starts," hard to diagnose why it will not "electric start."
Otherwise, sometimes, STARTING FLUID is your friend (have fire extinguisher handy). As is fuel system anti-freeze (e.g., "HEET"), countermeasure for moisture accumulating in the bottom of the float bowl/fuel tank. As is, even Sea Foam. If, "better living through chemistry" isn't the answer, there's always the: Remove, disassemble, clean and adjust carburetor approach.
Finally, engine compression, spark, and a combustible mixture remain essentials.
|02-28-2015 07:27 AM|
I think that it coagulates and looses some of its combustibility.
My dealer who also rides a KLR. Told me to drain the carb bowl any time that you are not going to ride for a while. The easiest way it to turn off the petcock a few blocks from home and ride the rest of the way.
I did not listen to Bruce and had hard starting and poor drive ability problems. From then on I have drained the bowl and the bike starts up and runs fine.
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