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2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-24-2016 02:31 PM
the borg I have 2012 that has had this issue since I bought it. I have removed, cleaned and checked everything related to the carbs about 8 times and nothing has changed. I removed the stock petcock and replaced it with a manual petcock. I have removed the AIS. I have jetted it with the EM KLX kit. I checked all the boots and caped all the vacuum ports. I have had the valves adjusted twice and the dealer rechecked the carbs and vacuum ports. Nothing has changed. I can ride it for days and it will be fine then it will go days with the wandering idle. I have learned to live with it now as it seems to be the nature of my beast. I am tired of chasing the problem. So far with 15,000 miles and it still runs so I can't complain too much.
04-23-2016 05:52 PM
pdwestman
Quote:
Originally Posted by road_apple View Post
I came late to the party-- The symptom of fast idle after a 'speed' run is what caught my eye. I've gone thru 3 diaphragms so far in about the same mileage as you. One was so bad your could see daylight thru the little thing. Another symptom is disconnecting the vacuum line to the fuel petcock and finding fuel in the line, hence the fast idle, varied idle.
road_apple,
3 fuel tap diaphragms in approximately 60,000 miles?
I think I remember changing 1, so far on my 1987 KL650-A1.
I'm currently a smidge over 77,000 miles.
So 'what' may be the cause? Any Ideas?

Gasahol in this area seems to run between 4% and 8% concentration. And I HATE seeing that variation!
04-23-2016 04:11 PM
road_apple I came late to the party but I bring beer! The symptoms you describe can occur when the vacuum diaphragm in the fuel petcock begins to leak. The symptom of fast idle after a 'speed' run is what caught my eye. I've gone thru 3 diaphragms so far in about the same mileage as you. One was so bad your could see daylight thru the little thing. Another symptom is disconnecting the vacuum line to the fuel petcock and finding fuel in the line, hence the fast idle, varied idle.
04-14-2016 01:31 AM
CheapBassTurd Yer gonna fit in just fine.
04-12-2016 10:20 PM
JohnBG
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
John BG,

Sounds like you already have a good grip mechanically.
Jump right in and teach these young bucks how not
to strip aluminum threads. LOL

CheapMark
Now you jinxed me... If there is a way not to bugger up threads, I haven't found it. An el cheapo Harbor Freight tap and die set comes in handy for that...
04-12-2016 06:54 PM
CheapBassTurd John BG,

Sounds like you already have a good grip mechanically.
Jump right in and teach these young bucks how not
to strip aluminum threads. LOL

CheapMark
04-12-2016 11:14 AM
willys Yes I imagine the ural's carbs and the KLRs are the same except a few differences which i doubt amount to much at all. Don't waste your time doing the 22 cent mod unless you can't afford the KLX needle kit from Eagle mike.....it is by far the better way to go, but if not, yes the 22 cent mod is a go. Yes drill slider side hole out to 7/64ths and nothing but! Use a battery hand held drill easy, just blow out all filings etc....I even went in with a larger bit manually and took the edge off both sides of the 7/64ths new hole as to make it even more air flow desirable....lol. The KLX needle is a better tapered needle with 5 slots to adjust the hieght of the needle, it also comes with 3 jets for elevation differences but you'll never need to adjust it for your riding I'm sure after the initial setting. Unplug the pilot screw cap if it hasn't bee already removed....then set that pilot screw 1 2 1/8 turns out from gently seated. Again I use a 145 main jet the stock pilot screw jet #40 and the KLX needle set on centre setting slot, Toronto area basically sealevel....
The petcock is entirely your call, and i fully understand why, it is a known issue on some bikes and has cause issues with KLRs.....again your call. BUT the simple fix is to rework the petcock but I personally would replace it with a Yamaha one like you said.
Yes the 8 bolts on the carbs are JUNK! replace them as you already know how. The valves should be at least checked to then be set at the widest spec, just for longevity, another issue is the oil screen under the clutch basket area, simple removal of right side cover allows that to be cleaned out as many from new are filled with assembly silicon shit. Mine was 1/3 plugged....buy a clymer or the shop manual for the KLR it will be an enormous help second being the better buy but the first is also good. BUT if you ask here you will get all the help offered by the manuals. It just takes time. nothing better than a paper book as you work...imho.
Ask away....that's what we're here for.
04-12-2016 10:34 AM
JohnBG
Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
Go into the carb, it is one of the most basic carbs alive and yes I too hate the unknown....but this is an easy beast, maybe half a dozen internal pieces.....and a simple operating system unleke my flatslide pumper carb....THAT is a monster to figure out. rebuilding is simple...just think of it as a jig saw puzzle and you'll be fine. IF you can split cases a carb is childs play! The old residue on the top of the tranny case is either oil from banjo bolt seeping or when you miss the oil fill hole because it is so small....????.....you get a dribble work it's way across and it always worries me when i see it, yes I have missed also!...lol. IF it is old fuel and has dried up with that crusty look time to rebuild carb imho for sure. Leave the vacuum operated petcock unless it's done, and cap off the polution crap, if they do not inspect where you are, you can remove it all the way to the head next to the spark plug, a small amount of weight savngs and that is enough reason to remove it ...lol. You could pull petcock out of tank to visually check it's screens. just for shits and giggles......? I never used to like the idea of it but it has grown on me as I know it will never allow fuel to fill carb and crankcase unless finished and in need of replacement. But I haven't heard of this happening more the other where the vacuum won't allow fuel to flow.
The valves imho should be set to the max or close as they won't move that much at all after the first or second adjustment.....slappy happy valves as they say....all your choice.
Florida gave up doing vehicle & emissions test years ago, so I wouldn't have to worry.

Ural put the same type vacuum petcock on their bikes for years (until they went to fuel injection in 2014). It was rare, but there were a few guys that hydro-locked their rigs fulla gasoline in the cylinders (boxer cylinders lower than the fuel valve/carbs) and filled crankcase with gas due to the petcock valve. The fix was to swap it with a Yamaha standard on/off/reserve gravity valve. I like having an "off" on the valve and knowing that it's really off. Plus it makes the ride exciting going a half a block down the road and then the bike dies because you forgot to turn on the gas!

The Keihin CVK40 on the KLR doesn't look all that much different than the pair of CVK32's I have on my Ural. I've gone digging in those a few times before. The pot metal Japanese Phillips (but not standard Phillips) cap and float bowl screws were a pain, had to carefully drill one of those out. I replaced all of those with stainless Allen heads on both carbs. I assume I'll have to do the same with the KLR. I was watching a video of the $0.22 mod here and if I get ambitious I might try that, I did something similar on the Ural putting a washer under each carb's float needle, but I didn't drill the slides. Of all the wrenching I have done, working on carbs is my least favorite. I'm hesitant to want to mess with it too much as other than the wandering idle, the bike runs great. The more I think of it, I'm feeling it's likely a vacuum line that is cracked or loose. Is there a way to remove the choke/enrichener cable from the carb so I don't bugger up the plastic connector?

I had originally wanted to buy a new KLR for years (that 2016 digital camo one is nice) but it's way too pricey for me and I hate making payments on toys, so I went with this used one that I could buy for ca$h. I expected a few little issues as with any used bike. So I'm not freaking, but riding a Russian bike for the last dozen years tends to make me paranoid. What's that noise? What's that smell?

I don't hear a lot of valve noise on the KLR, but then again I'm used ot a Ural with solid pushrods sounding like an industrial sewing machine going down the road. How often should the valves be adjusted on a KLR? Looks like the previous owner had it done about 10,000 miles ago. I understand they use cups or shims for adjustment rather than tappet adjusted like my Ural or old Hondas.

Thanks for your help and encouragement.

John
04-12-2016 09:35 AM
willys Go into the carb, it is one of the most basic carbs alive and yes I too hate the unknown....but this is an easy beast, maybe half a dozen internal pieces.....and a simple operating system unleke my flatslide pumper carb....THAT is a monster to figure out. rebuilding is simple...just think of it as a jig saw puzzle and you'll be fine. IF you can split cases a carb is childs play! The old residue on the top of the tranny case is either oil from banjo bolt seeping or when you miss the oil fill hole because it is so small....????.....you get a dribble work it's way across and it always worries me when i see it, yes I have missed also!...lol. IF it is old fuel and has dried up with that crusty look time to rebuild carb imho for sure. Leave the vacuum operated petcock unless it's done, and cap off the polution crap, if they do not inspect where you are, you can remove it all the way to the head next to the spark plug, a small amount of weight savngs and that is enough reason to remove it ...lol. You could pull petcock out of tank to visually check it's screens. just for shits and giggles......? I never used to like the idea of it but it has grown on me as I know it will never allow fuel to fill carb and crankcase unless finished and in need of replacement. But I haven't heard of this happening more the other where the vacuum won't allow fuel to flow.
The valves imho should be set to the max or close as they won't move that much at all after the first or second adjustment.....slappy happy valves as they say....all your choice.
04-12-2016 07:52 AM
JohnBG
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
I'm at 630 ft ASL next to Lake Michigan.
Stock pilot jet, idle mixture screw out 1 2/3 turns,
Sporster needle metering a 150 main.

Welcome to KLRforum.com. You are in the right place
for fixing stuff and learning from the best. I'm in the middle
of the teaching/ learning curve so take the Cheapster with a BIG
grain of salt. Nearly all of us like to gently lead newer members to the
search bar. Dozens of detailed threads, explanations, youtube links,
and pics of stuff are all there. It's worth every dime to buy a service manual.
It will pay for itself first time you use it in saved labor charges.
My bike is 6 years old with 19,000 miles and has never yet seen the inside of a shop
thanks to this oddball collection of humans who love elephants.

Next issue is to find your intermittent (cracked) vac hose, and/ or clean the low jet.
If that doesn't work, see Willys list.

CheapMark
Cheap,

Thanks for the advice... I will look into getting a manual. My other bike is a Ural Patrol and there is no such thing as a manual other than ones owners have created on the internet, like this one.

I created and am the admin for a Ural sidecar website called Soviet Steeds, and I try to steer n00bs to the "Search" feature. Much like you I get to learn and teach, and in 13 years my Ural rigs haven't been wrenched on in a shop. With help from fellow forum users and other local owners, I've been able to learn complex repairs from top-end rebuilds, to splitting the transmission cases. That's what I love about forums sites, the "we're all in this together" attitude.

I did search for "rapid idle" and "fluctuating idle" but didn't find much. I am reading up here on all of the different mods folks have done. I've been looking at KLR's for years and lurked ADV and a couple of KLR forms to research them.

I'm looking forward to learning and enjoying this bike. I've only had it a few weeks, but I've already started farkling it with a KLR Dash with RAM phone mount and Zero Gravity Touring wind screen, new Sargent seat, and a set of Tusk pannier boxes. She already came from the previous owner with a Lexx MX muffler, Ricochet skid plate, heated grips, larger front sprocket, and allegedly an Eagle Mike doohickey (but I haven't pulled the engine side cover to verify that). The bike appears to be in great shape, but it came with 57K miles as one of the previous owners used it as a daily commuter.

I was on the floor with a flashlight looking at the carb and I couldn't tell for sure but it looks like there is either gasoline or oil residue on the top of the transmission under the carb, so something might be going on there. This weekend, I may pull the gas tank and take a better look at the vaccum lines to see if there are any leaks and dump some Seafoam in the gas tank.

Aside from the idle issue, so far the bike runs great. Normally the idle will fluctuate between 1300 and 1500 rpm, not very steady though. Then occasionally, but not often, when pulling up to a stop light it wants to idle at 2000 rpm, then you get to the next stop and its fluctuating between 1300 and 1500 again.

If this were my Ural, the first thing I would do is balance the carbs (it has two), then check the rubber intake carb flanges, and then clean/futz with the carbs. The only vacuum line on a Ural is for the petcock, but I ditched the vacuum operated valve for a gravity fed and capped the vacuum port on the carb a long time ago and it ran much better. But the KLR is a different beast.

Carburetor to me is a French word that means "Don't f--k with it"... I don't have a lot of luck with carbs.

Thanks again for all your help.
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