Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum - Reply to Topic
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

Thread: KLX Needle Position Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-01-2010 02:46 AM
CheapBassTurd Markdude!
Just a thought, but when I was running the twinkie 88 on my Dyna, the "fix" was
the Sporster needle and the #4 washer. Aftermarket A/C and element and punched
the pipes of course. The KLR takes the same amount per breath per intake stroke as each
cylinder as the Sporty. The same setup will get you VERY close. (2 1/2 turns on
the screw.) The Sporster needle has a more aggressive taper than the TwinCam 88.

Lata,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
03-01-2010 01:53 AM
sportster65 I knew the bike was lean to begin with, so when i did the mods i did go up on the main jet. I can't remember the size and did not write it down as i always do. When SLO-KLR mentioned the 142.5 it sounded familar, that is why I believe it is the one I used. I have done the spark plug test a couple of times after the mods and came up with a nice tan color. The T-Bob has been on my short (now long) list since I read about it.

You had mentioned using a washer, when I got the needle from Schnitz they sent a washer along with the needle. I assume I should use it?
Like I said the bike is running better than ever and really does not feel like fine tuning is needed, but I have read many mention the +'s of the KLX needle, which is why I went ahead and ordered it. If it is not going to make any noticable difference in throttle response, I may just forget about it and keep things the way they are. The mods the I did on her bike really woke her up and she started to feel (finally) like a 650cc bike should.

Maybe I'll re-think the needle, it sounds as though it will not be of any improvement.
03-01-2010 01:27 AM
tomatocity
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportster65 View Post
I spent alot of time researching the mods over the past 2 years, the mods were not done due to a poorly running engine, just an engine that comes to California plugged up due to CA emission standards. I have spent the last 25+ years wrenching on my Sportsters, and as you may know the Sportys used the 40mm CV carb.

I have familiarized myself with tuning carbs by not being able to afford a mechanic when I was a teenager, so I learned alot by trial and error.

I asked about the KLX needle because I, like others, hope to pull the carb as few times as possible and get close to, or where I need to be with the needle position the first time.

I am a new comer to japanese bikes, as I rode Harleys most of my adult life, and Japanese bikes as a kid. I understand the principle of carb tuning, but was just hoping to get a little heads up on the needle position.

I appreciate all the help and will update as soon as I get the needle replaced. Since the weather was good taday, I decided to ride instead of pulling the carb. These last few weeks sunshine has been very sparse, so have to take advantage of it when it is out.

Thanks,

Mark
The 50 States KLRs the emissions concerns are only parts and a little extra weight. The KLR comes very lean weather it is a 49 or 50 States KLR.
My concern was seeing you opened the airbox (lean) and installed an aftermarket exhaust (lean) while adding the 22 cents mod (light richness). A UNI or K&N filter would be more lean. The 22 cent mod usually only compensates for the stock lean condition. The cut airbox and aftermarket exhaust adds extreme lean.
Since you don't have a baseline I suggest you start with the second from the top notch with a #4 washer under the clip or don't use the washer and tape up the airbox. The 142.5 main jet is a proven main jet for a stock piston.

Another suggestion is to install a Thermo-bob to stablize operating temperatures.
02-28-2010 10:34 PM
sportster65
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity View Post
Something else to consider is the use of the #4 washer to split the difference of the slots on the KLX needle.

May I suggest you spend a lot of time reading about the aftermarket exhaust you have and the L Mod. You have many variables to deal with and that makes it difficult to find a base line when making changes / improvements.

Do you have an aftermarket air cleaner? What is the idle pilot screw set at? Do you still have the stock 650 piston and cylinder? Has the snorkle been removed?

When was the last time the engine ran well? What was the configuration when it ran well?

Why did you do the L Mod and install the aftermarket exhaust? Both of these are extreme modifications.

These are questions you need answer and document. This will help you properly tune your KLR engine.
I spent alot of time researching the mods over the past 2 years, the mods were not done due to a poorly running engine, just an engine that comes to California plugged up due to CA emission standards. I have spent the last 25+ years wrenching on my Sportsters, and as you may know the Sportys used the 40mm CV carb.

I have familiarized myself with tuning carbs by not being able to afford a mechanic when I was a teenager, so I learned alot by trial and error.

I asked about the KLX needle because I, like others, hope to pull the carb as few times as possible and get close to, or where I need to be with the needle position the first time.

I am a new comer to japanese bikes, as I rode Harleys most of my adult life, and Japanese bikes as a kid. I understand the principle of carb tuning, but was just hoping to get a little heads up on the needle position.

I appreciate all the help and will update as soon as I get the needle replaced. Since the weather was good taday, I decided to ride instead of pulling the carb. These last few weeks sunshine has been very sparse, so have to take advantage of it when it is out.

Thanks,

Mark
02-28-2010 02:47 AM
tomatocity Something else to consider is the use of the #4 washer to split the difference of the slots on the KLX needle.

May I suggest you spend a lot of time reading about the aftermarket exhaust you have and the L Mod. You have many variables to deal with and that makes it difficult to find a base line when making changes / improvements.

Do you have an aftermarket air cleaner? What is the idle pilot screw set at? Do you still have the stock 650 piston and cylinder? Has the snorkle been removed?

When was the last time the engine ran well? What was the configuration when it ran well?

Why did you do the L Mod and install the aftermarket exhaust? Both of these are extreme modifications.

These are questions you need answer and document. This will help you properly tune your KLR engine.
02-27-2010 06:26 PM
SLO-KLR If you still have the stock needle and jet then you currently have a 148 main jet. I couldn't get my bike to run right with the L-mod and shimmed stock needle, it was too lean. That's why I went to the klx needle. A 140 main jet was reccommended and I ended up using a 142.5. The 140 was just too lean for my bike.
02-27-2010 04:14 PM
sportster65
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO-KLR View Post
Mark what jet are you going to run with KLX needle? I'm using a 142.5.
That was my next question, I believe that I have a 142.5 in it now. I will have to re-check when i take the carb down. I'll let you know when i get it opened up.
02-27-2010 11:03 AM
SLO-KLR Mark what jet are you going to run with KLX needle? I'm using a 142.5.
02-27-2010 10:48 AM
maprimm That is where i started with mine I think I'm on #2 clip now not sure if its better than the 22 cent in my opinion or not there is a very small difference in throttle response to me but i like to try different combination to find what works.
02-27-2010 10:44 AM
SLO-KLR The starting point for the KLX needle for the KLR is second groove from the top. That is where mine is at.
It rained like hell here last night. The rain was driving in sideways and pounding on the bedroom window. Enjoy your rainy day.
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