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2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

Thread: Balancer chain worn out? (doohickey related?) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-06-2017 02:04 AM
Xevel
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan filipi View Post
Yours vibrates only at 3000 rpm?
It's all about interpretation
Here I'm making a difference between "heavy rattling" and "gentle purr"... the one at 3k is annoying, the rest is character.

Anyway, a new day, a new noise, same area, but more clicking, after about 150km at highway speed... I might have someone have a look at it this time.

EDIT: Noise is correlated to the engine RPMs but varies most with engine temp : nearly absent on a cold engine, very loud after heating up in the barely moving traffic. I'll make a separate thread if needed - this is very different problem.
05-05-2017 07:52 AM
dan filipi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xevel View Post
Hi,

Last update.
I received the sprockets (all 3 of them) today, and failed to order the right spacer (the one that got damaged by the chain), so I only re-surfaced the original one.
I re-measured the chain to 191.5mm, well clear from the service limit.

Not much to show this time, when I assemble everything right, it just works. \o/

I gained maybe 10 -15 mm of adjustment for the doo (I did not measure nor think about taking a pic :/ ).

One thing that I noticed though, and went to find many pictures of other people's balancer chain, is that it is normal that it touches the rear chain guide (just not press unreasonably on it like it did).

Now I just have to find the reason why the whole motorcycle vibrates around 3K rpm and I'll be golden
Yours vibrates only at 3000 rpm?
05-05-2017 04:55 AM
Xevel Hi,

Last update.
I received the sprockets (all 3 of them) today, and failed to order the right spacer (the one that got damaged by the chain), so I only re-surfaced the original one.
I re-measured the chain to 191.5mm, well clear from the service limit.

Not much to show this time, when I assemble everything right, it just works. \o/

I gained maybe 10 -15 mm of adjustment for the doo (I did not measure nor think about taking a pic :/ ).

One thing that I noticed though, and went to find many pictures of other people's balancer chain, is that it is normal that it touches the rear chain guide (just not press unreasonably on it like it did).

Now I just have to find the reason why the whole motorcycle vibrates around 3K rpm and I'll be golden
04-18-2017 12:24 PM
Xevel @pdwestman

Ok, I *think* I see what you mean, and I beleive it's a mix of reflection on the oil and actual wear which dates back to the original problem, when the chain grinded on the case. The leading side of most links got flettened when it hit the case, as is most visible on the outter links next to the black case bolt (and even more clearly on #020407).

The worse offenders are the few link which have crunched some metal part, and their inner side is damaged, as can be seen in pic #4 in the very first post of this thread.

I'll take some time with a file or some very fine sanding paper to lessen any roughness before I get it all back together. I'll be waiting for the parts for another 2 weeks anyway.
04-18-2017 11:51 AM
pdwestman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xevel View Post
@pdwestman: I do not get what you mean by "may have rubbed the exterior of the Balancer Chain (pic #020613)". It rubbed between the interior of the balancer chain and the case, leaving the marks visible in #030249. To me, #020613 only shows the place where the balancer chain grinds against the rear chain guide - but if you see something else that I missed I would be glad if you could point it out.


Yep I found the official one for my model, and an older Clymer. The procedure seems clear to me, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I didn't understand that either Paul. Are you referring to the exterior link plates or the exterior across the rollers? I think the oil on the edge of the exterior link plates at the chain guide in #020613 makes them look a little rough.
As I look at pic #020613, it looks as thou the surface of the chain side plates which are contacting the chain guide from about the Black case bolt and Up to the tip of the guide at the Top edge of the pic are kinda' rough.
Maybe the roughness I think I see would accelerate the wear on the chain guides?

The 3 inner link plates look rougher than the 4 outer link plates in that area.
Could it be aluminum smear on the links?
04-16-2017 01:46 AM
GoMotor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xevel View Post
@pdwestman: I do not get what you mean by "may have rubbed the exterior of the Balancer Chain (pic #020613)". It rubbed between the interior of the balancer chain and the case, leaving the marks visible in #030249. To me, #020613 only shows the place where the balancer chain grinds against the rear chain guide - but if you see something else that I missed I would be glad if you could point it out.
................
I didn't understand that either Paul. Are you referring to the exterior link plates or the exterior across the rollers? I think the oil on the edge of the exterior link plates at the chain guide in #020613 makes them look a little rough.
04-15-2017 11:29 PM
Xevel @pdwestman: I do not get what you mean by "may have rubbed the exterior of the Balancer Chain (pic #020613)". It rubbed between the interior of the balancer chain and the case, leaving the marks visible in #030249. To me, #020613 only shows the place where the balancer chain grinds against the rear chain guide - but if you see something else that I missed I would be glad if you could point it out.

@GoMotor:
I indeed cut out the bosse like you did (just not as deep), it went from #201749 where you can see the marks left before, to the next one 215304 where you can (more or less) see the added clearance when it's back and tensioned. Still, as seen in #020613 the chain is completely pressed against the guide at that point, to the point that you can see in #020407 it's not going straigth from the top sprocket to the idler sprocket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I assume you have a service manual that tells you how to time the balancer sprockets with the crankshaft sprocket.
Yep I found the official one for my model, and an older Clymer. The procedure seems clear to me, thanks.
04-15-2017 08:49 PM
GoMotor If you want to take the least costly approach to see how things might work out, here are some suggestions.

Replace only one sprocket, the front which you say is the worst or the idler which is the least expensive. I replaced the idler at one time and gained a noticeable amount of adjustment range.

Cut out the space below the chain on the side cover bolt boss casting for more chain clearance. See photo.
Don't worry about the groves in the chain guides. Mine are like that. Also, don't worry about the crankshaft sprocket. It has no rubber shoulders. The balancer chain looks serviceable. Hit the little nicks with a file if you can. If you are comfortable that the starter gear was still working when you took it apart, let it ride. Replace that big washer and remember the easiest places to mess up are that big washer and the four tiny thin ones on the starter gears.

I assume you have a service manual that tells you how to time the balancer sprockets with the crankshaft sprocket.
04-15-2017 06:29 PM
pdwestman Xevel,
Kind of hard to comprehend that the Flat Washer from behind the eccentric adjuster shaft (pic#030005) may have rubbed the exterior of the Balancer Chain (pic #020613) that much. wow!

But like you suggest, if the chain rolls smoothly thru the arc of all 4 sprockets and is not near specified wear limit it should be OK.

The base of all of the sprocket teeth visible look very good, no visible wear.
04-15-2017 03:20 PM
Xevel A whole bunch of Pics : https://www.flickr.com/photos/149632...7679331215094/

The front balancer sproket suffered the most in the initial event that prompted the "repair" done by the previous owner, with rubber badly damaged on both sides, in two places.
All 3 sprokets that I removed (I did not touch the one on the crankshaft) have seriously flattened rubber - from your pic GoMotor I would say that mine are much more damaged, which could explain the lack of improvement when I rotated the chain.

BTW, no adjustment possible for the guards.

The washer that has seen better days... well this one is on me >_> it's the one that goes behind the idler shaft, and it slipped when I reinstalled it at some point... made an additional grinding noise when it moved all the way to the front chain guide, scorching the case under the front balancer sprocket. oops.
I'm pretty lucky it did not do more damage.

I just pray (and will go have a look) that the crankshaft sprocket is not toast (= badly damaged, not just flattened) too, because it would make that repair seriously more expensive. The other sprockets total ~280USD, the crankshaft 500 more (and changing this one would be a much more serious job). And I'm not even looking at local prices and wait time...

I'm probably not going to change the chain guides (+75USD), nor the chain (+300USD, damaged here and there but not where it counts, I guess). I'm ambivalent about the starter gear (+320USD), which looks like sh*t but still works...
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