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Thread: New KLR650 Owner: Question on shifting speed Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-25-2010 02:03 AM
CheapBassTurd Good point. If it's not broken in, it's not broken in, period.
I shoulda worded that differently. Everybody's on the same page at least.
It's a very well designed and built engine in general (doohickey aside) and
just seat the rings clean and tight, keep your oil clean, then go have some more fun.
04-21-2010 05:31 PM
tomatocity 2008 and later oil useage: are you using oil or burning oil? Is the oil coming out the exhaust or out the crankcase vent and into the airbox.

Here is my 2 cents and I will use published information to clarify.

New engine Break-in:

This is published at Schnitz Racing the home of the 685 / 705 kits.

Here is the link for the 685 kit:
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1

Here is the break-in procedures:
Break in
Before the first fire up, change the oil & filter. Use a cheap 10w30 or 10w40 mineral based oil. No synthetic. Warm the bike up fully. Ride the bike somewhat easy for 5 to 20 miles. DO as much engine braking as possible. NO steady throttle cruising! Change the oil and filter again using a premium grade, non-synthetic 10w40. Over the next 150-200 miles work the engine progressively harder. Best if done in 2-3 sessions with a cool down in between. Again, use as much engine braking as possible. Go through the gears as much as possible. There are no RPM limits, just “work” the engine a littler harder each time, then back off. Change the oil and filter again after this period. You can now use a synthetic oil (recommended). Use a 15w50 or 20w50. Avoid any extended high RPM runs for another 100 miles.
The head bolts do not need to be retorqued, but it does not hurt to do so. You should recheck the exhaust bolts and other hardware about this time.

Cheap states "they are pre-broken-in" and "The only thing that can't be done at the factory is sealing the rings." These statements contradict each other since breaking in an engine has to to with the rings and oil. The hard parts are sized better than they ever have been in the past. As Cheap stated (my version) the parts are made very well through better machinery. The rings and oil are the issue.

Paper, down shifting is a form of compression breaking though rolling of the throttle without downshifting is preferred.

My 685 was broke-in on flatland and that was difficult.
My 705 was broke-in in the Sierra Foothills and that made it easier. Throttle while shifting up the hills and roll off the throttle on the downhills.
Twisties are another good surface for breaking-in engines. A lot of On and Off throttle is the best. Of course there are times you have to use flatlands so watch the traffic while you are varying your speed.

Used engine oil useage:

There was a recall for the early 2008 KLRs. This showed that Kawasaki tried a different oil ring(s) and it did not work. Check for the recall or technical service bulletin.
04-21-2010 02:55 PM
Paper I'm with Mark on this.. I'm easy on a new engine for a couple hundred miles and I've always been one that will take a new engine and do a fair amount of downshifting to use the engine as a brake during that time..
I was told it helps get extra oil at the piston/ring area while the bike's not under acceleration pressure to aid seating rings.. I dunno.. Could be a crock of crap, too..

The only engine I have that uses oil is my KLR.. I bought it used with 1300 miles on it.. It's not excessive use, but I keep an eye on it. It uses as much now at 20K than it did when I first got it.

I love the Rotella 15w-40 and it's used in all my bikes...

And as Mark said, change it!! Oil's not cheap, but he is!!
04-21-2010 09:52 AM
CheapBassTurd They are pre-broken-in. Sounds opposite of what the manuals state, but
laser guided CNC machines makes virtually everything in spec and ready to spin hard.
The only thing that can't be done at the factory is sealing the rings. That ain't gonna
happen babying the engine. Don't beat it up by any means, although I did and still do,
just ride as normal going up and down through the gears often.

Change the oil often in the beginning and go have some fun.

One man's opinion based in fact but not a hard n' fast rule.

CheapMarkWithAReliableAndHappyKLR
04-21-2010 08:58 AM
dbrewerton My '09 (Blue) is just getting broken in. I'm around 560km right now. I know the recommendation is to stay below 4000RPM for the first 500mi/800km and below 6000 for the next 500mi/800km. What I find is that in most gears, except 1st, I tend to accelerate to around 3800-4000 then shift up. Compared to my CBF-1000 where I can shift a little lower in the gear, the KLR seems to be better off running a little higher RPMs in the gear range and doesn't respond as well if you have to give it some gas and you're at the bottom of the RPMs for that gear. I hit around 4000RPM in 5th at 55mph/90kph so that's my speed limit for now.

I'm planning on going to a 16T front sprocket since I understand it will drop about 400RPM at highway speeds. I tend to do more road and less off road. That may change depending on the summer months.

Any suggestions on anything I may be doing wrong with my break in? I'm also shifting to Rotella-T 15-40 with my next oil change. First oil/filter chg was at 300km. I was also told to not go to a synthetic until 3000mi/5000km to get the rings and engine parts properly settled in.
04-16-2010 12:52 AM
tomatocity With a 650 I live between 3,500 and 5,000 with most of it being 4,000-4,500.

With a 685 I can pull from 2,500 and the engine loves 5,500-6,000 when in the twisties.
04-15-2010 11:03 PM
Lockjaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWanderer View Post
Manual is usually set for maximum gas mileage and perfect conditions. Just toss those suggestions out and go by the seat of your pants. Every situation is different, you take off faster one minute, slower the next... you rip through 3rd then back off through 5. It's always changing so you have to adjust the shifting. I rarely look any more, but if I recall correctly it's usually around 3,000 to 4,000 rpm when riding normal and 2,500 to 3,000 when I'm putting around slower.
Those are about the right numbers by me, too. I don't do a lot of putting though.



04-15-2010 10:56 PM
TheWanderer Manual is usually set for maximum gas mileage and perfect conditions. Just toss those suggestions out and go by the seat of your pants. Every situation is different, you take off faster one minute, slower the next... you rip through 3rd then back off through 5. It's always changing so you have to adjust the shifting. I rarely look any more, but if I recall correctly it's usually around 3,000 to 4,000 rpm when riding normal and 2,500 to 3,000 when I'm putting around slower.
04-15-2010 08:44 PM
Lockjaw Yeah, I agree with BI. You will know by the sound and feel when to shift. If not right away, with a little practice.



04-15-2010 08:06 PM
Pob
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGIRON View Post
Assuming your bike is new, it's probably running very lean (factory setting). I have no experience w/the newer models, but there's a ton of info about jetting and carb stuff if you'll search.

Other than that, the bike will tell you when to shift.
Thanks, I'll look into that.
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