Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum - Reply to Topic
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2018 09:50 PM
jncdi Thanks for the quick reply. Knew some bit of knowledge was missing on my part.

jncdi
09-19-2018 08:51 PM
pdwestman Loosen the top PINCH bolts of the triple clamp.
09-19-2018 08:47 PM
jncdi The sag measurements are completed and it looks like I need to add an extra 1 1/4" of spacer length to the forks in order to get it back to the 1/3 travel guideline.

I went to remove the fork caps and they seem to be torqued by Magilla. Is this normal? Should a breaker bar be required to loosen these caps?

jncdi
09-14-2018 06:34 PM
jncdi Not sure if this has been posted before but here is a video of a Progressive spring install:


It has a nice side by side comparison to the stock spring as well.

jncdi
09-14-2018 11:03 AM
DPelletier
Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
Quote: Dpelletier "Thanks for the reply; I find the subject fascinating. So to be clear, you are currently using the DDC's with the 10W oil and the stock springs?"

Yes! I did full Cogent install.
Then I removed some oil as suggested by Todd.
Then I shortened the spacer a few mm, as per Todd's suggestion.
Lastly, I put OEM springs back in. (Latest experiment.)
That's how it is currently. Softer ride, and so-far, no bottoming. (Still have to get it out on some rough stuff, but I feel it should be ok as far as that is concerned.

I did think it may be a front tire slightly out of round.
(I had taken a brand new Heidenau off, and replaced it with a Bridgestone TW41, because of excessive bounce.)
It seemed to be much better. I wonder it a combination of slight out of round, and the DDC could be making the pogo thing happen? It happens randomly, not like a out of round would act. (Bounce rate repeating in rhythmic fashion.) This is more random!

I was thinking even more about this.......I believe your "pogoing" may be due to a tire/rim/balance issue and is/was exascerbated by both the stiffer spring and the stiffer initial damping of the DDC's.... The relative "harshness" I was referring to earlier is not quite the same thing though it stems from the same comparative changes.

The random fashion could be a combination of the tire/rim issue coupled with a well placed road imperfection....

Not sure I'm articulating this quite right; hopefully you see what I mean.

Cheers,
Dave
09-14-2018 07:42 AM
larry31
Suspension

Quote: Dpelletier "Thanks for the reply; I find the subject fascinating. So to be clear, you are currently using the DDC's with the 10W oil and the stock springs?"

Yes! I did full Cogent install.
Then I removed some oil as suggested by Todd.
Then I shortened the spacer a few mm, as per Todd's suggestion.
Lastly, I put OEM springs back in. (Latest experiment.)
That's how it is currently. Softer ride, and so-far, no bottoming. (Still have to get it out on some rough stuff, but I feel it should be ok as far as that is concerned.

I did think it may be a front tire slightly out of round.
(I had taken a brand new Heidenau off, and replaced it with a Bridgestone TW41, because of excessive bounce.)
It seemed to be much better. I wonder it a combination of slight out of round, and the DDC could be making the pogo thing happen? It happens randomly, not like a out of round would act. (Bounce rate repeating in rhythmic fashion.) This is more random!
09-13-2018 11:35 PM
jncdi Dave,

Your comments about usage also ring true here.

I tend to go easy on the bike whether on paved or unpaved roads. It is most comfortable up to about 50-55mph simply because of wind noise. (Yes, I wear ear plugs on all rides).

The main purpose behind the purchase of this bike is exploring places that could not be easily reached with another mode of transportation. The challenge of learning a riding skills is also addictive.

The intent behind this thread is to find the forum wisdom on making the bike better on the highway for those times when there is no other reasonable route. It is quite obvious the KLR was never intended to be a highway tourer or autobahn blaster. And that suits me just fine.

My next steps will be:
1.) Adjust the preload on the forks.
2.) Adjust rear rebound.
3.) Ride the rest of the season and then consider whether a full blown Cogent set-up is in the cards.

I will report back after making the adjustments with my findings to close the circle.

Thanks to you and everyone else for the wisdom.

jncdi
09-13-2018 09:25 PM
KLRCraig Reading through this entire Thread (good Qs JNCDI) I've learned quite a bit...
thank you Boys!

My 'Maiden Voyage' yesterday after re-assembling my 'exploded diagram' '03 involved 2 disappointments (among alotta successes... new Thread for that soon since I'm not, or try not to be, a HiJacker!!!).

1. PDWestMan helped me figure out why the Primary Drive Seal I replaced was leaking ['prolly drove it in too far though I may have (also) marred the Seal on install... we'll see this weekend if I get the time to take all that SHITE off again... Oh, and PUT IT BACK-FRIKKIN'-ON... SHEESH].

And now youse guys are ALL helping me with understanding my only other 'shortfall' on the re-assembly).

2. I felt a bitta 'pogo-ing' too, from the Front (most accurately descriptive phrase yet... thanks for THAT, too!). I replaced my poorly painted Rims (FIASCO!!!) with some CraigsList ones during re-assembly. My MCShop pronounced 'em Clean 'n Strait 'n True, but I wondered. Now methinks it's more likely... just the Bike. I'm not saying I'm 'dialed in' on my Suspension... I only stuck (lesser) Progressives in front with new Bushings/Seals/Oil (10W) and AM STUCK with OEM in Rear. Fortunately I'm a better 'n average Rider and I'm 6'2" 190#, so I'm not affecting the Bike with extemporaneous input too terribly much/often.
My point here is, NOW I KNOW, I'm prolly okay with the very modest Pogo-ing until I make further changes (Budget, Time... just like everyone else). Even then, it'll be VERY helpful to remember I'll never achieve perfection with this Beast... and that's juuuuuust fine.

I think this entire Post most important comment was DPelletier's where he mentioned something to the effect of 'You just can't set this Bike up to be perfect in every instance (my words)'.
Benefit here?
Price there!
Benefit there?
Price somewhere's else most likely.
Give 'n Take...

All the while I'm remembering $850 PurchasePrice with about $800 in 'stuff' (parts, replacements, ForkRebuild, Tars, etc).
I guess my 'time' is Free...
{{{ sigh }}}

AAAAAND...

I've not yet checked/done my Doo-Hickey (next 500 mi or so... at 17,500mi currently),
nor have I replaced my Rear Shock.
I'm saving up and choosing Lemonaide Stand locations to set up at, so I hope to pick up/add those parts SOON!!!
09-13-2018 05:02 PM
DPelletier
Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
yes, 1" schedule 40 PVC is what most use. If your sag is more than 3.5 - 4" then you probably need to upgrade the springrate. Fork oil is probably fine, it degrades primarily by use.

Dave
Correction; I just checked my Cogent adjustable fork caps and they came with 3/4" schedule 80, though schedule 40 is fine too.

Dave
09-13-2018 04:51 PM
DPelletier
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Huuummmmmm,
Stock KLR forks use 10W oil.

Race Tech Emulators use 10W oil, IIRC, after over drilling the damper rods.

Cogent DDCs do Not require over drilling the damper rods, because we are supposed to use the thinner 5W oil, IIRC?
Correct. Sorry, brain fart - meant 5W.....otherwise the DDC's would be a bit harsh!

Cheers,
Dave
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