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2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

Thread: Some major upgrade advice Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-25-2019 04:59 PM
Damocles And . . . the HITS keep on COMING!

11-25-2019 04:26 PM
ILove2Ride2Wheels Honestly, Iím keeping track of the expenditures, but havenít totaled them up as of yet. Itís a mix of farkles, upgrades, tools, etc.

The video is actually kind of meaningless as heís just listing the basic upgrades. He - as he stated - didnít even touch the suspension.

Then again, I didnít buy new. I bought a used KLR because I knew I was going to upgrade it. I had two choices ... buy new with some minor farkles or buy used and upgrade the suspension and engine.

I went a bit off track with the engine though. And I bought tools and additional farkles not I my original budget. My original budget was about $8,000 including the purchase of the KLR ($3000). I put $2300 into the front end along with some tools and parts to rebuild it. That still left $2700 for the engine upgrade alone. So, when itís all finished, Iíll figure out what I actually put into it. Plus what Iíll have left to do.

This motorcycle isnít just about money to me though. I fully expect to enjoy the break down, upgrade, and rebuild of the bare bones. I expect to enjoy the work on it as much as I will the ride on it. Nor does it matter if other motorcyclists thing Iím a loon to do it as itís not cost effective. As if only the money matters. In the end, this KLR650 will be my KLR650. There are others out there. Some better. Some worse. All that will matter to me is that this one is mine.

I hope you enjoy your as much. If itís just transportation to you, well Iíve been there too, but Iíve moved beyond just riding to get from point A to point B. If this is the case, I do hope you too will get past the ... itís just transportation phase. Life is too short. Enjoy what you can while you can because you never know where the road/trail/etc. will end.
11-25-2019 03:39 PM
DPelletier hmmmm; 9,000 minus 6500 = he spent 2500 on mods.....I've spent more than that on mine and would do it again. I think the OP will spend that on engine mods alone...

2 cents
Dave
11-25-2019 02:30 PM
Damocles No advice, just FYI:

11-22-2019 10:23 PM
ILove2Ride2Wheels
Some major upgrade advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I'll suggest to remove most top end and side stuff while still in-frame.

There are a few bolts hiding under things in the top end. Never force anything, look at the books again.
I had planned to do that. I thought about buying an engine stand from Rocky Mountain, but decided it would be less expensive and easier to disassemble it in the frame.

Iíve also read a few threads, and know there are some hidden or tricky bolts to get to. So, Iíll keep your advice in mind and if in doubt, stop, reflect, research, and post any questions during those challenging methods.

Iím actually taking this build down to the frame as I am going to be pulling some electrical wiring for custom additions. Plus the front end work. Full fork rebuild and a look at the steering bearings. Might as well since Iím there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Loosen the lower suspension rocker pivot before trying to remove lower cases from the frame.

Thanks for the reminder. Iím going to pull the swingarm again and that pesky top linkage section you just mentioned that usually rusts solid. Iíll replace any bearings, bushings, or seals that need it at that time. Plus plug those troublesome holes. Not sure if Iíll put in zerk fittings, tap for bolts, or just use silicon to plug them up. Since Iíll have it all apart, guess I can figure it out then.

If you see anything in the new thread that Iím missing, or needs to be looked at, hope you and the rest will point out the errors to me.
11-22-2019 09:09 PM
pdwestman New threads are a great move for these projects. I'll suggest to remove most top end and side stuff while still in-frame.
There are a few bolts hiding under things in the top end. Never force anything, look at the books again.

Loosen the lower suspension rocker pivot before trying to remove lower cases from the frame.
11-22-2019 08:30 PM
ILove2Ride2Wheels Well no chance for a pre-build dyno run. Only shop I could find on such short notice is booked up for a couple of more weeks.

Iíll be able to get an after run with them though when Iím fine. Should be good enough as everyone knows what a stock KLR makes anyway.

On the good news side of things, my garage is ready. Got storage and a work table. Well cart. Still need to make the top for it.

So, dropping the wife off for a trip back East tomorrow and Sunday is prep day. Got to unpack the tools and put them away. Need to organize the replacement parts so I know where each one is located and that I didnít skip any.

On Wednesday the breakdown begins! Think I might start a new thread for that and another for the build. Just to stay organized.
11-17-2019 05:39 PM
ILove2Ride2Wheels
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
If you have a rigidly mounted bench vise, you only need to pad the vise jaws with 'soft-jaws' or 2 blocks of hardwood on a cam lobe, to either remove or re-install the sprocket bolts. Camshaft should be vertical in vise & sprocket horizontal.

Cool. I already bought the aluminum 90 degree flat and angle brackets for a vice. Iíll pick up a few pieces of wood too. Waiting on my mobile workbench. Just havenít decided how big a vice I should get. Iím thinking a minimum of 6Ē, but maybe bigger as I also want to be able to use it to install bearings in my swingarm. Any idea how wide of one is need to service a swingarm using sockets as a driver and receptacle for that?


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11-17-2019 05:32 PM
pdwestman
Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
I saw this previously, but have no welding tools. And Iím not quite sure if Iím ready to start welding yet. I am buying a new cam chain, so at least that part will be available to build the jig if needed. I have a local machine shop that could help me build it if needed.

Iíll be looking at my manuals today to see what other methods they use, but am wondering if there is any other way to install the cam bolts without a jig like this.


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If you have a rigidly mounted bench vise, you only need to pad the vise jaws with 'soft-jaws' or 2 blocks of hardwood on a cam lobe, to either remove or re-install the sprocket bolts. Camshaft should be vertical in vise & sprocket horizontal.
11-17-2019 01:48 PM
ILove2Ride2Wheels
Some major upgrade advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Since you're planning off-roading, ILove2, I ASSUME you have a proper skid plate. What about engine/radiator guard? And, crash ("nerf") bars (maybe, with street pegs)? An IMS plastic tank will fulfill some of these functional capabilities, and . . . you can get 'em, up to 10-gallon capacity. What about handguards? (I think these accessories are valuable as, "control-lever guards"). And . . . do you have a choke lever/mirror relocation bracket (protects left-handlebar switchgear and choke lever pivot from mirror-stem carnage in the event of a fall). Stone guard for headlight?

Ain't there a rear brake rotor guard? Maybe a rear brake master cylinder guard?
Got a skid plate, nerf bars, highway pegs, radiator guard, brake guard, choke eliminator kit & idle mixture screw, curtsey of the PO. Iím buying Barkbuster hand guards and a stone guard for the front headlight. Iíve had my headlight beaten up before by road debris so always put one on after that. BMW replacements are more expensive than KLR parts, but still the cost of a stone guard will mostly eliminate potential problems and is worth it to me.

No need for an IMS tank though. Iíll be buying an external set of cans to carry in my luggage when I decide on my choice of luggage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
And . . . I'd think an Allen-keyed oil fill cap essential for an engine of the elegance of yours.
No. I donít like the idea of an Allen wrench being required to put oil in the engine. If I do decide to buy a replacement, and I might as my current plugís top is a bit too flexible from the PO using something to torque it on/off more than figure tight, Iíll just get a billet version. Still less expensive than an OEM replacement.

But I might not even need that as Iím looking at an entire clutch cover replacement that includes the plug, the oil cover, and the clutch pivot linkage. I want to get a longer clutch pivot linkage made and the other parts can be used in case I screw up the PDWestern oil mods. At the least I want the zero oil filtration mod and if I screw up my cover Iíll have spare parts.

Nice quotes too.






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