Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum - Reply to Topic
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

Thread: Switched power rear of bike Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-19-2020 03:30 AM
89a3
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTCrow View Post
Well, thanks to you guys, I just wired up my first relay. Miraculously, it works! Now I have a switched power USB in my top box so I can charge my battery bank while I'm riding.
Great stuff. You have done well. There will be no stopping you now!
01-17-2020 02:03 PM
GreatWhiteNorth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Just wonderin' . . . how long will it take for the, "very low current draw" to drain a KLR650 14 amp-hour battery below starting current capability?

Disconnect switch? Might not be a bad idea!

Maybe the newer version draws less current, but the one I have (came with the bike) gets warm to the touch (the USB connector block), has to eventually drain the battery, so I wired in a waterproof power switch, connected to the battery side terminal on the starter solenoid - not a bad spot IMO to tap off unswitched power from:



The light is noticeable when on, and the switch doesn't stick out much - I've never accidentally turned it on or off.
01-17-2020 12:18 PM
Damocles
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatWhiteNorth View Post
Although it says no need for a switch, due to very low current draw, I installed an on/off switch in the power wire.
Just wonderin' . . . how long will it take for the, "very low current draw" to drain a KLR650 14 amp-hour battery below starting current capability?

Disconnect switch? Might not be a bad idea!

01-17-2020 10:51 AM
JTCrow Well, thanks to you guys, I just wired up my first relay. Miraculously, it works! Now I have a switched power USB in my top box so I can charge my battery bank while I'm riding.

Although I have a GPS tablet charging through a USB up front, I still have my little camp light, phone, gopro, sena, and assorted other little doodads that need charging at camp. My battery bank was good for about 2-3 days before it would die and I'd need to find a place to stop for a few hours ( it charges dreadfully slow) and hope they'd let me use a plug or spend the night at a hotel to charge up (rather be camping!). Now I'm self contained. I just plug the battery bank into the top box and it charges back there while I'm riding during the day. This is a simple but much needed upgrade for me. I was going to get a small tank bag to keep the bank and just plug in up front but I'm standing a lot of the time and don't like tank bags so this is a better solution.

Right now I have way too much accessory wiring on the bike and I'm praying it wont cause me problems. I cleaned it up a bit this winter and protected it better but I'm going to have to get one of those relay fuse boxes. That's a project for next winter.

Thanks again guys!
01-17-2020 10:01 AM
GreatWhiteNorth For the electrically challenged, and even those that aren't, these 3BR USB charging kits are plug 'n play, easy to install, have an in-line fuse, and battery connection lugs pre-installed:

https://www.3brpowersports.com/image...PP_Kit1_T1.png

https://www.3brpowersports.com/products.php

They can be handlebar mounted, or installed into a rear rack top box. Although it says no need for a switch, due to very low current draw, I installed an on/off switch in the power wire.
01-15-2020 06:42 PM
Damocles
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTCrow View Post
Thanks guys, and trust me, any wiring, for me, is going down a rabbit hole! But with your help it is becoming more clear.

Does anyone know the gauge of the tail light wiring?
An intimate, and seldom-discussed question, JTCrow: Do you own, or otherwise have access to, a multimeter? As in, a meter measuring volts, ohms, etc.?

Now, a wild guess; I'd imagine tail light wiring is around 16-18 gauge; I now defer on this subject to more knowledgeable KLRistas!

01-15-2020 05:37 PM
KBS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toney View Post
You know that you're going down a rabbit hole. Once you get that relay, you'll want one that leaves the GPS powered up for 10 minutes while you're getting fuel so you don't have to enter in your destination again. Then you'll need a ESP8266 for a WiFi access point so you can honk your horn and find your bike in the parking lot at Hooters after dark using your phone. That leads to lean angle sensors, motion sensors, then 3D printers and so on...... Hummm,,, I think I'll add one to the wife's bike so that I can honk her horn remotely from my bike. Sounds fun. 2 ESP's, 1 Mosfet and a button. She'll love it! LOL!
Don't forget the Google-phonic stereo with a moon rock needle.
01-13-2020 09:01 AM
JTCrow Thanks guys, and trust me, any wiring, for me, is going down a rabbit hole! But with your help it is becoming more clear.

Does anyone know the gauge of the tail light wiring?
01-13-2020 01:59 AM
Toney You know that you're going down a rabbit hole. Once you get that relay, you'll want one that leaves the GPS powered up for 10 minutes while you're getting fuel so you don't have to enter in your destination again. Then you'll need a ESP8266 for a WiFi access point so you can honk your horn and find your bike in the parking lot at Hooters after dark using your phone. That leads to lean angle sensors, motion sensors, then 3D printers and so on...... Hummm,,, I think I'll add one to the wife's bike so that I can honk her horn remotely from my bike. Sounds fun. 2 ESP's, 1 Mosfet and a button. She'll love it! LOL!
01-12-2020 11:30 PM
Toney You can also pick up a full time hot off the starter solenoid and power a fuse box with it. I run a 10 gauge in a rubber hose for this. I've done that so that there is not 15 wires on the hot side of the battery. You know that battery will crap out someday but the solenoid will probably last the life of the bike. Then changing a battery isn't a wiring nightmare. I just ground everything to the frame.
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