Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum - Reply to Topic
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

Thread: another Doohickey Questions / Problem Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-27-2020 09:43 AM
Originally Posted by moosehead View Post

according to you, can I still ride this for a lot of miles?

with the new Doohickey and torsion spring installed, will the rubbing stop ?
Provided that nothing else is or goes amiss and the Doo-Hickey is allowed to re-adjust the chain slack about once every 5000 miles or so, it may still run to the 100,000 mile / 160,000 km + mark.
Only one way to find out, ride it.

With the Doo-Hickey locked down with the bolt to 70 inch pounds there can not be any movement or rubbing.

Welcome to the forum & Ride Safe!
01-27-2020 08:24 AM
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
For only 21,000 miles of useage, that is the farthest that I have even seen an EM Doo-Hickey rotated to, either on the internet or in person.

according to you, can I still ride this for a lot of miles?

with the new Doohickey and torsion spring installed, will the rubbing stop ?
01-26-2020 07:32 PM
pdwestman For only 21,000 miles of useage, that is the farthest that I have even seen an EM Doo-Hickey rotated to, either on the internet or in person.
01-26-2020 06:46 PM
moosehead when I opened, the spring was attached on both sides.

the adjustment screw was tight, but easy to unscrew.

and the OEM Doohickey was in the picture 1 position, completely to the front of bike

the engine is now reassembled.
I took that picture of the new doohickey before reassembled
is my future adjustment correct?

I think the engine was opened before I bought this bike.
there was orange silicone gasket in addition to the factory gasket. it didn't look like a factory job.
the spring may have been broken and replaced by an OEM.

and also, when I put a little tension in the bottom sproket (pic 2)
by turning it a little clockwise
it seemed to me that the chain was going down, in the rubbing groove
for the chain to go back up, I had to turn counterclockwise.
is it only because the engine doesn't run?
shouldn't the tension make the chain go up?

maybe I'll open it again next winter,
to make sure the damage is not worse

01-26-2020 05:48 PM
Originally Posted by moosehead View Post
Hi Everyone

this weekend, i'm doing my Doohickey on my 2013 klr.

and i have a problem, something i have never seen on any videos or pictures of "how to" Doohickey

it seems the tension chain is rubbing the low end of the case, and groove the metal.
see pictures below

I bought this used bike 2 years ago,
I thought the Doohickey maybe had already been changed, because there is an orange gasket silicone all around the cover, but it's a "OEM" Doohickey and spring inside.
may be changed by the dealer ?

its seems something is not not well installed, but i don't know what.
i have remove the tensioner sprocket, and everything looks OK according to my Clymer book.
but i am not a specialist... it is my first Doohickey change

has anyone seen anything like that ?

how to make it stop rubbing ?

and sorry for my bad English, i hope it is understandable.
In the 1st pic,
I can see the oem spring is still attached to its anchor post. Was the other end still attached to the lever arm, or was the hook broken off? The spring & lever arm tried valiantly to control the slack with an un-locked doo-hickey, by evidence of missing paint (pics 2 & 3) under the spring. At least for as long as it could.

And yes that area that is totally missing paint (looked sandblasted, behind the doo) was also because of running with a loose locking bolt.
Was the locking bolt loose when You took it apart? Or tight in its maximum tension position, of 1st pic?

Is your engine back together YET?

If not back together, maybe you can grab hold of the upper rear weight or shaft and try to feel for slack in those bearings.
Tom Schmitz lost his 2008 engine because of the upper rear balancer bearings failing.

3rd & 4th pics,
If the engine is not yet together, one can use a Dremel burr to relieve that case bolt boss under the chain. That area is Solid behind the threads of the bolt. Of course it takes a lot of rags, tape and vacuum cleaner to suck-up as much cuttings as possible while cutting and clean up the final mess, before reassembly.

If the engine is not yet together, do you have pics of the New Doo-Hickey & Torsion spring, Installed? So we can see how much potential future adjustment travel is available?
01-26-2020 02:25 PM
Tom Schmitz I credit @pdwestman and his keen eye for seeing this sort of thing and knowing what it was. The first time I saw it I thought it was fretting and Paul set me straight that he'd seen late-model KLRs running with loose adjusting bolts.
01-26-2020 02:15 PM
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Fortunately, his look pretty good. See post #3.
I saw that. Your suggestion that the adjuster bolt was loose makes sense. It wouldn't be the first KLR with the counterbalancer chain ran slack :^(
01-26-2020 02:11 PM
GreatWhiteNorth As someone who accidentally ran an engine with the counterbalancer chain full slack, I can attest that you can make it approximately 30 kms before the chain snaps, and the engine grunches to a halt, making expensive noises.

Teardown revealed the end broken off a doohickey torsion spring. I'd done an oil change and doohickey adjustment day before, in prep for a trip. ...ran it after the oil change, thought it sounded a bit different, but ignored that (silly me).

One theory, is that it's possible to nick the spring, if you're using sharp edged needle nose pliers (for example)... or that the edge where the doohickey contacts the spring can wear into the spring - I slightly radius that contact point now when I install a doohickey.
01-26-2020 02:10 PM
Tom Schmitz
Originally Posted by GreatWhiteNorth View Post
...The rubber cush, that the chain rests on, becomes compressed over time, and develops conforming flat spots, which allows the chain to ride deeper in between the sprocket teeth...
Fortunately, his look pretty good. See post #3.
01-26-2020 02:00 PM
Tom Schmitz
Originally Posted by moosehead View Post
I also photograph the balancer location
the metal looks sandblasted

>image removed, see above<[/IMG]
To my eye, that looks like the engine was run with a loose adjusting bolt for a while. That would cause the chain to go to pretty much a full-slack condition. At every spot where the chain has to change direction as it goes around a sprocket it will hit the case if there is a case to hit.

You might want to dress that area down so that the lever can't hang up in the grooves and on the sharp spots.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome