|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-26-2011 08:11 PM|
This is the best Gen 2 KLR schematic and great for troubleshooting ... The igniter, the gray boxes, has been broken up into 8 parts so no wires cross over.
|01-19-2011 11:21 AM|
I took the bike to Batesville Kawasaki today. They said because I eliminated the clutch switch and the brake switch and also put bar risers on it, that Kawasaki may not put a wiring harness on it under warranty. They also told me that my wiring harness had had "a kit" added to it to eliminate the wiring harness problem. I told them whatever it takes, just get it running.
I'll post another note when I find out what was wrong and what I had to go through to fix it.
|01-18-2011 08:44 PM|
Harvey, I realize your bike's prolly at the shop by now but as someone else mentioned, did you rule out the stop/run switch?
As was also mentioned, sounds like an open rather than a short if it's wiring-related.
Good luck, I hope the fix is a cheap one.
|01-18-2011 09:33 AM|
The ignition of your '09 (and '08's, "10's and '11's) is dependent upon battery voltage, 12 VDC, unlike the '07's and older models, whose ignitions were fired solely from alternating current from the exciter coil of the alternator . . .
Thus, I could not say you do NOT have an electrical short problem. You MAY have an ignition kill circuitry problem; something momentarily interrupting power to your "fully-transistorized" inductive discharge ignition system.
And . . . with all electrics working during the shut-downs, I'd check the fuel delivery and carburetion system also, as others have suggested . . . may not be an electrical problem at all.
|01-18-2011 08:56 AM|
I have had the tank and covers off 3 times, checked all the possibilities that I have received over the web and still cannot find the short. I have pretty much given up on finding it and will take my bike to Batesville Kawasaki tomorrow.
It's very discouraging to me because this is my 3rd 650 KLR. I had a 2000, it was bullet proof, I had an '06 and after fixing one small problem it was a perfect bike. On this bike I have had bolts come loose, lost one frame bolt, bad oil consumption and now this short. This bike is the biggest piece of junk I have ever owned and I have had over 30 motorcycles since I have been a young man.
After breaking the bike in and doing the first oil change, by the time the bike hit 1,600 miles I had used almost 2 quarts of oil. When I pulled it down to put the 685 kit in it, I found that the piston and the barrel had 5-1/2 thousands clearance. If any of you have ever rebuilt engines on bikes, you know that 2-1/2 thousands is about the right clearance between piston and barrel. If I didn't have so much money in the bike at this point, I would just sell it. But I know that Kawasaki has a good design in this motorcycle, so once I get the bugs out I'll keep it. Wish me luck.
|01-18-2011 08:45 AM|
|kent soignier||harvey, did you find anything yet?|
|01-12-2011 11:57 AM|
Originally Posted by road_apple View Post
My 08 blew the main fuse when I applied the brakes going to work one day. I looked over the harness carefully but never did find an obvious burned spot. I could see that the tank was resting on the harness where it passes over the rectifier bracket. I installed some additonal plastic wire loom in that area and padded the tank edge a bit. I also re-routed the harness in a couple areas under the tank and wrapped some addtional electrical tape in spots. No problems since (2+ years ago).
|01-12-2011 10:23 AM|
|road_apple||Two areas that were problems for me on my '08 were a useless bracket next to the rectifier that almost cut a wire in half and a rub spot thru the insulation underneath the upper cowling on the harness bundle going up to the instrument/headlight area. The first is very common and will cause the symptoms you describe. The second was my inspection after finding the first. I did the 'recall' myself unable to trust any stealership in my area to do the right thing in a timely manner. Only other problem I've had was the clutch safety switch at the plug next to the handle, fixed with a jumper. Have patience it really is a good bike...|
|01-11-2011 03:11 PM|
harvey, How quickly does the bike restart after quitting?
When it dies, is it like you flick off the kill switch? or does it sputter, or is it like you when run out of gas and have to switch to reserve?
Being a mechanic myself, I can tell you that solving intermittent electrical problems can be difficult, and that the first step in efficient problem solving is to accurately identify the problem. From your description I am not yet certain you have an elctrical problem.
If I had your bike I would carry a spare spark plug and go for a ride until it dies. Then quickly pull the plugcap, insert the spare plug and check for spark with it.
That will tell you if you do in fact have an ignition failure.
The fact that rough terrain sets up the failure suggests to me a poor connection thats getting shaken loose, causing an 'open' rather than a 'short'.
That connection may be in the killswitch or at any of the connectors in the ignition system.
Like vatrader said, the fact that it restarts soon after dying points to possibilities of carb/fuel problems.
A lack of spark could be caused by a coil, cdi box, pick up trigger (kawi calls it a crankshaft sensor), kill switch, or any of the wires between those items. obviously that list is after you have bypassed all the safety switches which you say you have done.
There are tests for some of these components outlined in the factroy shop manual, but the best test is usually to swap with known good components.
Get a buddy with a KLR to visit you and 'borrow' parts for testing.
Another way I have diagnosed ignition problems is to hook up a timing light and watch it flash. everytime the ignition misses a beat, so does the timing light. I have even done this while riding to identify whether a miss-fire is ignition or carb based.
Do you have a manual?
|01-09-2011 05:37 PM|
The fact the bike restarts takes me back to carburetor....Have you drained the float bowl a coupla times? Water will trap there, and under rough conditions, can cause a cut out. Under less than rough conditions, the water and fuel will separate. If you have already done his, please disregard.
Keep in mind you and the bike are there. We are not. If it sounds like we are grasping at straws, we are. We can't hear, feel, see or smell what is going on there.
The restart every time would motivate me to go over the fuel delivery.
A dead short will blow fuses as has been mentioned.
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