Emmision test question.......help...please.
OK, do we have anyone who knows something about the camshaft sensor on a 2001 Chevy tracker?
I just took the daughter's new to her tracker in for it's emmision test and it failed initially because the service engine light was on, then they say that the camshaft position sensor is throwing up a code P0340.....which is OK, I don't have a problem with it being defective but when I asked them about it and why, they first started with if the engine service light is on it fails....but when pressed to find out more info they throw up the error code.....again no problem, but again when pressed they said the service engine light won't go out unless the error code has been fixed. OK again.....so I pay go out to the vehicle and start the car, drive away and I notice the service engine light isn't on any longer? I then decide to go back and ask why. They said it could stay on or go out and the error coade is still present. They are contradicting themselves a bit aren't they? I don't want to fork out $150 for the diagnostic readout if it's just a new way for them to get $$$ out of me. Would or should this engine service light go out when an error code is present? If not....it should mean they are screwing with me, no? Yes I realise I shouldn't have used Canadian Tire but haven't had any issues with them in the past, but their repretation preceeds them. Stupid mechanics or fresh out of school dumbasses.....sorry if you work there....but....you maybe the acception to the norm.
So, is there a way to figue this out without paying them the $150 they are demanding? The vehicle runs and drives perfectly! No signs of anything missing, sputtering, absolutely perfect, that is why I'm semi upset......?
Would it be worth my while to take it to somewhere else just for my peace of mind? If it passes there I will be fit to be tied...I hate being taken for a dumbass when I haven't tried to be one.....augh!
I have installed a new battery, starter and altenater,spark plugs air cleaner. Is it possible that doing that I could have set this error code up...?
Can this camshaft sensor be tested?....if so how......please go easy I hate electronics and have a hard time understanding their testing requirements, but can follow easy instructions.....
Can anyone shed some light onto my problem......?
I have a Saturn that throws a cam error code from time to time.
Here's what I do. Research that code for that vehicle online. On my car the error was spurious and is actually caused by bad plugs/wires. I was going to replace them because they're ancient, but first I tried wiggling the wires, and that cleared the light. Cheapest solution ever! I'm sure its different on your car but some research can sometimes really pay off.
Buy or borrow a ODBII (is that the right acronym?) computer. Sometimes auto parts stores loan them out. Make sure you have the right code.
At least the internet will let you know the right course of action for that code.
You can then clear it with the computer. Note that this clears out the memory of the computer in your car, and it won't be ready to retest until you've repopulated that data by driving (about 100 miles for my car.)
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I had that with my GMC 3/4 ton pickup except it was a crankshaft sensor. The GM tech, who was very informative, stated that he can reset the codes and most of the time things can be minor "glitches" and things can clear out on their own. If the specific code continually comes back up, then that is your problem.
He took about 30 mins. to download codes before he could test further, when he did it came up as a crankshaft sensor. Apparently these sensors can cause other codes to come up since everything is interrelated. That may be why yours cleared out after you left the shop, by downloading the codes, they might reset and clear up. I would take it to another smog shop while the light is off and you'll probably be fine. I live in California-the pioneers of the smog check-and people have been trying to get around problematic emission stuff for a while.
Interestingly-a friend who is a major airline mechanic goes through the same crap to diagnose issues on DC10s.
Hope you can get it cleared up.
That code detects a problem in the CPS circuit so it could be the CPS, the connections, wiring. Check the connectors and the wiring to the CPS.
Do you have any running issues? Hard starting, running rough, loss of power?
In my experience once a code is thrown it stays there until a actual reset. I've never had codes come and go but not saying it isn't possible. Some codes only show up when the event happens twice. By that I mean the computer has to see the same condition twice before it throws a code. So if they reset it the code may not come back immediately.
With Ukrainian Tire you take your chances. Most times you loose.
Well after a few hours of fiddling around undoing and checking all noticeable electrical connections and filling each with dilectric grease after checking to see each one was like the day it came from the factory.....we tested the system once again....no codes tripped even. Buddy said to drive it for a few hundred Kms and see if it trips the code again, if not the computer will reset to normal and alls well. The distance from my house to the shop wasn't enough to reset the computer I'm guessing after the battery and other parts I installed were replaced. But as I was driving home that magical distance must have been reached.
The kicker is.....I have to have reciepts for the work done by a licienced shop to get the retest price!! WTF??? I had a licienced mechanic check the vehicle on his own time etc.....but because they are demanding a shop's reciept and new parts etc shown as being replaced etc...I have to pay full pop for the test!!!
I am a semi reasonable person if given some respect, but ****!! What happened to allowing the owner of the vehicle to fix their own vehicle if they are capable? If it isn't fixed as it should be, their tes should easily point it out as a fail...no!!!! This is purely a money grab and this shop will not get any of my money from now on.....if I have to pay full pop I will not be giving it to them at all costs!
So today's job is to drive a few hundred kms to reset the computer and see what happens, then monday I ask a question and if they demand full pop, I'll go elsewhere to get a new test done.
I have found out that there is no way to fix this test in your favor, they can't fix it and you can't trick it.......so the only way for them to get more money from you is to do what they tried to do......Give the $150 to stick it on their tester or scanner and get them to tell me exactly what the internet has already told me, plus what my buddies scanner told us.
He also said that if that check engine or service engine soon light is on at any point during the emmission test it's an instant fail. Even if you unplug the light the computer will tell them what code is tripped and it's a fail, so you may as well get it right before you even go. Don't do what I used to do, cover the light over with tape so you can't see it any more. The old test when they used rollers and a tail pipe sniffer didn't care about that light, it went strictly on what came out of the tail pipe. All our vehicles pssed even if the light came on. NOW, it's a totally different testing system and there is no way to get past it. Period!
Time to move further north where they do not test!
If they are going to test vehicles it should be all of the provingce not just the heavily populated areas! Is this even legal to force some to test and other not have to!....again ****!!!
I live so close to the border of low insurance rates and no testing that it really burns my ass!
Thanks for all the help guys and I'll keep you informed.......:13:
I don't know how it works up there, but is there any chance the mechanic is friendly enough to write you up a "receipt"?
Screw them, I'm going to another shop and refuse to give them another dime of mine! I'll gladly pay full price for a retest over giving them anything. So, it's going into another shop tomorrow morning for a retest. The service engine light is off now and it's functioning as it should, perfectly. So it shouldn't fail this time. Fingers crossed!:13:
So the solution is to buy a non fuel injected, pre computer controlled vehicle, and blow their minds!!:)
The 1952 Willys Pick up is coming out this summer for a season of shows and mainly to take the daughter to her graduation in May.....it's never been taken officially off the road as I will not let any other person touch it to safety it. I had some jerk off snap 10 wheel nuts off my other old jeep many years ago saying they were all seized and they broke.....no dubmass they are lefthand thread.......and they said it was my fault!!! After that I always buy my paperwork after a full restoration project.........street vehicles get the normal route but the good stuff......sorry it just ain't happening! I learnt my lesson! They had a very hard time replacing those 10 lefthand thread lug nuts......lol. They had to buy them through me through my military supplier.....the mark up was stiff!!!....lol:13:
Passed with flying colours as I expected it would....but they get you primed for a fail......sighting the new system and it's potential faults....which from what I have learned there aren't any! It's a straight swap of information from your vehicle to their machine.....if your vehicle trips a code it fails....plain and simple. It's your fault in other words!
Once I told them what had be done and what I experienced at the other shop they gave up on the posibilities of possible future work as in scanning etc.
So...it's a fully legal road worthy machine......all done.:13:
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