More carb help - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-30-2011, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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More carb help

I talked to a factory mechanic last weekend at mid-ohio about getting alittle more bottom and mid-range out of the 600. what he told me was 3 turns out on pilot screw go 1 bigger on the main and shim the needle. any body every tried it or heard of it? does the 22 cent mod work on the 600's?
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-30-2011, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gpzbob View Post
I talked to a factory mechanic last weekend at mid-ohio about getting alittle more bottom and mid-range out of the 600. what he told me was 3 turns out on pilot screw go 1 bigger on the main and shim the needle. any body every tried it or heard of it? does the 22 cent mod work on the 600's?
My experience has been that without any radical changes to air intake or exhaust, 2.25 turns out from stop is a good starting point for the air / fuel mixture setting. Radical air intake / exhaust modifications may require jet changes, because there is just so much that the air / fuel mixture screw adjustments will do.

The 22 cent mod is the same for all Keihin CV carburetors. There is some differing opinions on the diameter of the enlarged hole we drill in the slide. I've drilled 7/64 holes, 1/8 holes, and left the hole in it's stock diameter, and I guess I'm just too Neanderthal to declare that I can tell any difference. My suggestion is to back the air / fuel mixture screw out 2.25 turns from stop, add ONE #4 machine washer to shim the needle, drill the slide to 7/64 and experiment. Everything you do can be reversed. You can buy a KLX needle if it makes you feel better, however, the end result of either will be about the same....a much improved throttle response.

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post #3 of 10 Old 07-30-2011, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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nothing else is needed for 22 cent mod just a #4 washer
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-30-2011, 07:42 PM
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nothing else is needed for 22 cent mod just a #4 washer
That's about the size of it. Sometimes, #4 washers are sold in packs of ten which may shove the overall cash outlay up into the $1.00 + category.

Maybe we could do a group buy on the washers and start a traveling 7/64 drill bit.....

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post #5 of 10 Old 07-31-2011, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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is radio shack the only place to get them?
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-31-2011, 10:10 AM
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is radio shack the only place to get them?
I got mine in a 6-pack at Lowe's. Any home improvement/hardware store like that should have them.



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post #7 of 10 Old 07-31-2011, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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ok so i couldn't find stainless so i got brass. what number is on the needle? n24l?
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-11-2011, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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ok so i put washer under the needle and drilled the slide now it doesn't want rev past 5k ???
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-14-2011, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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problem solved thanks to Damocles i didn't have the diaphragm sealed in the groove know if i could get some torque like my BANDIT has i'd have a wicked dirt bike
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-15-2011, 12:20 AM
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problem solved thanks to Damocles i didn't have the diaphragm sealed in the groove
Glad you got it fixed, gpzbob!

Further, I appreciate your acknowledgement of the valid advice and useful suggestion I provided.

When no one on the forum responded to your post above,
Quote:
ok so i put washer under the needle and drilled the slide now it doesn't want rev past 5k ???
I sent you a PM explaining, without a completely airtight seal of the diaphragm, the slide will not lift properly when the throttle (air butterfly) is opened, and the needle jet and main jet will not be uncovered adequately for sufficient fuel in the air/fuel mixture.

You could not achieve full rpm as a result of your diaphragm air leak; in more extreme cases, the engine will not run past idle without full "choke" (enricher), compensating for the fuel-lean condition.

The diaphragm seal can be checked without removal and total disassembly of the carb, if the intake hose clamps are loosened, the carb rotated so the four machine screws holding the black plastic mixing chamber cover atop the carb are removed, and the mixing chamber cover removed to inspect the diaphragm's fit in its groove.

A bit of silicone grease or other goop to hold the diaphragm in place while the mixing chamber cover is cinched down may sometimes be useful.

Again, much obliged for recognizing some possible "socially-redeeming value" on my part from my advice and suggestion.
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