I need a spark in my life - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #1 of 14 Old 06-03-2013, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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I need a spark in my life

Hi there. I have in a moment of madness bought a 1984 600 kick start. Wiring was pulled to bits and I have manged to light up ignition, however I have no spark. Am looking to work from the magneto to the cdi first. So I have worked out the wires to the rectifier so now looking to test the pick up, does anyone know how. I presumed stick a meter and work kick start?

Cheers Fergie
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-03-2013, 05:49 PM
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Sorry wish I could help....I hate electronics! Do you have the shop amnual? If not it's worth it's weight in gold seriously! It costs an arm and a left nut...but get one. It explains exactly how to diagnose the elctrical system to a "T".....You could ask me but I still wouldn't be able to explain it well enough to help you even after reading the correct page. I'm sure someone with much more experience or lack of it will chime in soon.

Willys
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-03-2013, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergieuk View Post
Hi there. I have in a moment of madness bought a 1984 600 kick start. Wiring was pulled to bits and I have manged to light up ignition, however I have no spark. Am looking to work from the magneto to the cdi first. So I have worked out the wires to the rectifier so now looking to test the pick up, does anyone know how. I presumed stick a meter and work kick start?

Cheers Fergie
First, the rectifier wiring has NOTHING to do with the igntion circuitry, Fergie (assuming the same scheme as Generation 1 KLR650s).

The ignition (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, or CDI) is powered by alternating current from the exciter coil of your alternator; NOT any coil connected to the rectifier.

The pickup coil voltage (alternating current) can be checked with a multimeter as the engine is cranked (remove the spark plug for faster rotor rotation and higher readings, be sure ignition switch is ON and kill switch in the RUN position, safety switches (sidestand, neutral, clutch) in GO configuration.

So, you need to verify AC from the alternator coil to the igniter (CDI), and voltage from the pickup coil, when the engine is cranked. With these inputs, an operational igniter (CDI) will discharge through an operational ignition coil and fire your spark plug. Never mind the rectifier/battery circuit.

Last edited by Damocles; 06-04-2013 at 06:10 AM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by willys View Post
Sorry wish I could help....I hate electronics! Do you have the shop amnual? If not it's worth it's weight in gold seriously! It costs an arm and a left nut...but get one. It explains exactly how to diagnose the elctrical system to a "T".....You could ask me but I still wouldn't be able to explain it well enough to help you even after reading the correct page. I'm sure someone with much more experience or lack of it will chime in soon.
Cheers, it is a junker I bought so spending is limited till I run the engine and make sure it is an economical rebuild .......otherwise I may break it
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
First, the rectifier wiring has NOTHING to do with the igntion circuitry, Fergie (assuming the same scheme as Generation 1 KLR650s).

The ignition (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, or CDI) is powered by alternating current from the exciter coil of your alternator; NOT any coil connected to the rectifier.

The pickup coil voltage (alternating current) can be checked with a multimeter as the engine is cranked (remove the spark plug for faster rotor rotation and higher readings, be sure ignition switch is ON and kill switch OFF).

So, you need to verify AC from the alternator coil to the igniter (CDI), and voltage from the pickup coil, when the engine is cranked. With these inputs, an operational igniter (CDI) will discharge through an operational ignition coil and fire your spark plug. Never mind the rectifier/battery circuit.
will check it as soon as cheers
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fergieuk View Post
will check it as soon as cheers
The exciter coil of the alternator is pretty robust; the pickup coil generally durable and quite simple. The ignition coil's rather durable, also. The CDI (igniter)? Herein lies the joker in the deck; hard to tell what this "black box" may be up to; diagnosis is limited to some vague resistance checks; a better approach may be substitution of a known serviceable alternative.

The CDI accepts the alternator's AC input (don't know the voltage level, maybe as high as 50-100 volts), steps up that voltage (via transformer) and rectifies it to charge a capacitor. Meanwhile, the pickup coil detects the timing mass on the rotor and pulses a thyristor, discharging the capacitor through the ignition coil boosting the voltage to the thousands needed to fire the spark plug.

A fascinating process, perhaps, but . . . UNSEEN and immeasurable by ordinary means, hidden within the "black box" of the igniter. Thus, the igniter (CDI) becomes more-or-less an "either-or" component to the typical mechanic or grease monkey; either it works, or it doesn't; in the latter case, removed and replaced, not repaired.

Good luck; would just try to steer you down the path of significance; the ignition circuit remains totally separate from the battery (rectifier) circuit; no battery is necessary to run KLR600s or Generation 1 KLR650s.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 07:13 AM
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I also have a KL600. I love it. Hope these pics help. Sorry about the quality. Couldn't get my scanner to work. Had to use digital camera. These are from the KLR600 manual.



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post #8 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 07:20 AM
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If I can get the scanner to work, I will post better images.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 02:50 PM
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Got the scanner working.



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post #10 of 14 Old 06-04-2013, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Will get the meter on these in next couple of days.
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