87 klr250 no start - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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87 klr250 no start

Hey guys, i picked up an 87 klr 250 off a buddy. he put it away running about a year ago and now it doesnt start. I have spart, the carb has been cleaned and i have compression. It even try to pop off starting fluid. I adjusted my valves out to .024" because they were a bit on the tight side. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 05:51 PM
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.024 inch or .024 millimeter? <that shoulda been .24 millimeter...

.024" would be a rather huge gap.

When you open the drain screw on the bottom of the bowl, does fuel dribble out?

Is the choke working?

Do you have spark?

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-28-2015 at 11:42 PM.
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post #3 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Spark is yes, I believe choke was operating fine but I was going to double check that. And dang I may have set them to .024" instead of mil. Didn't even think to check my feeling gauge when I picked it up, just opened .024 and went. And I will be checking the bowl once home.
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post #4 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 10:12 PM
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Sorry, fly824 and Tom S.,
Ya' both need readin' glasses!

Max. valve tappet clearance. Intake and Exhaust. KLR250.
0.24mm or .0095 inches.

I call it a 'snug' .010inch / or 'sloppy' .009inch!
I have tried to purchase a 'Metric' feeler gauge, in increments of .0255 MM (.001 thousands of an inch)! None to be had in the USA!
How about it Normk? Inch or MM feeler gauge, in Canada?

So, I use inches and decimals there-of, good thing they are Double 'Stamped'.
Inches and Millimeters.

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post #5 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 10:44 PM
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Valve clearance, .008-.0095INCHES, more or less!

STRONG; STRONG recommendation:

DRAIN float bowl; DRAIN fuel tank WITH PETCOCK LEVER SET TO RESERVE POSITION; fill tank with fresh gasoline. (Why RESERVE? Lower fuel tank volume is accessed ONLY through the RESERVE petcock position. A dollop or two of "Heet" or other "fuel system anti-freeze" might not hurt, nor some joy-juice like Sea Foam or Startron.

Starting fluid, sometimes, is your friend.

IMPORTANT: Get fresh, "dry" gasoline to the carb.

A long tow, maybe while in 3rd or 4th gear, might be more effective than the kick-starter.

Last edited by Damocles; 04-27-2015 at 10:47 PM.
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post #6 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 11:09 PM
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I have gotta' say,
If ya' gotta' tow it or run it down a hill or use starting fluid , to light the fire, something is NOT correct!

Cylinder, Cold Cranking Compression, 60-114 PSI! 90-114 psi is preferred.

pdwestman
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post #7 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the response guys! obviously the valves are way out of whack because I was in a rush and over looked the unit of measurement. and that could very well be, AS when i first adjusted them and kicked it over i had the only slight sign of life the bike has shown, a very very short rumble, maybe a total of 3 tops revolutions of the engine.

I had the carb completely apart and cleaned prior to my initial start attempt and i had drained the gas tank and put brand new fresh gas in there, but i will completely drain both again tomorrow and douche them out with some good 93 oct.

Now a question I am curious on as a friend has it brought it up. Will these engines start without oil pressure? the cams have a tad bit a wear on them (nothing excessive), and we are wondering if it has a slight starvation problem or not and if that could cause a no start isssue or not.

And thank you for the compression info, i will be going through everything after work tomorrow. Readjusting valves, running a compression test. and draining and replacing all fuel (again).

Last edited by fly824; 04-27-2015 at 11:18 PM.
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post #8 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 11:31 PM
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fly824,
To the best of my knowledge, any engine will start and 'must start' with Zero oil Pressure.
How long it may run, is a whole 'nother issue!! Some generators and such have 'shut-down' systems!
To the best of my knowledge, the KLR250 has none of these 'safety-systems'.
Use at your own risk! Check your oil Level! FULL is usually 'good enough'!

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 25 Old 04-27-2015, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, that is exactly what I thought, I have a ton of experience on horizontal single cylinders and automotive and diesels. This is one of the first vertical four-stroke engines I've gotten my hands on and just wanted to be sure is all. Diesels need oil pressure to start but whole nother ball game lol. This engine has just thrown me for a lil loop and being a couple brews deep the first night I worked on it didn't help much. I'm used to carb issues or bad wiring being the issue on bikes/atvs
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post #10 of 25 Old 04-28-2015, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fly824 View Post

And thank you for the compression info, i will be going through everything after work tomorrow. Readjusting valves, running a compression test. and draining and replacing all fuel (again).
You may realize, a compression test, in the conventional sense, is compromised because of the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release). The device must be disabled for a valid compression reading.

Alternatively, a leak-down test may give a better diagnosis of ring-and-valve condition.

CLARIFICATION: Starting fluid and/or bump-starting were suggested as a "field expedient," not as any permanent solution to any existing problems. A running engine might reveal more about its overall condition in some cases than one that will not start, IMHO.
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