KLR 650C Engine Swap - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #1 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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KLR 650C Engine Swap

Am familiar with some of the differences between the "C" and the "A" model but generally speaking you don't see many "C" models around here. Local salvage yard is parting out a KLR 650 C model. All they say is that is has a "broken head" whatever that means. I asked for a price for the entire bike.

So in anticipation on getting a favourable price just wondering if there are any engine differences between the "C" and the "A". I understand that the carb is a little different but other than that I'm thinking it's the same. My intent would be to do a complete engine swap or head replacement. It's a 2002 model KLR 650 C.

Thanks for any input.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #2 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 12:46 PM
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I'd answer but it would just be a guess.

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 02:03 PM
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If I recall correctly, the carb is like the Aussie carb. It has that coolant circulation going on.

Drop an "A" model carb on it and use the ports on the head and water pump to build a bypass. Or just build the bypass. Or just plug it up.

Don't know if that system is troublesome; never heard anything along those lines.

A "C" is a variant I'd love to have.

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post #4 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Got a price back from the salvage yard of $1000. I haven't seen the bike so don't know if that's reasonable or not. I thought it was a little on the high side considering it won't run without major work. I assume that's why it ended up there in the first place. Repairs cost more than the bike is worth. I'm trying to find out what exactly they mean by "broken head". If it has been run low on oil it may be more than that. Don't want to invest more than it's actually worth but I sure would like to have the bike. A rebuilt head would run around $1000 CDN by the time I had it in hand. From the salvage side the only things I see that might fetch some money is the forks and the wheels and the front brakes. After that you'll have a hard time getting rid of the stuff.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Some more details from the salvage yard. I'm going to say that the head is definitely pooched based on this. Would I still be safe to use the old cams in a new head?

This is the response to the question I asked:

the cam holder broke on head side, on exhaust cam, looks like who ever did last valve adjustment did not torque the bolts. the cams do look okay.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #6 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 06:33 PM
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I don't see why not if the cams don't look damaged klr4evr. Is that a Tengi? I can't remember the designation.
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post #7 of 17 Old 02-24-2016, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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No Jeff the Tengai is a "b" model. Love to grab one of those.

This is a "C"


My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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Last edited by klr4evr; 03-20-2016 at 02:53 PM.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-19-2016, 06:32 PM
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IF it's in a scrapper I would check if it's been hit anywhere, the frames twist extremely easily. The gas tank mounts are all different and the european tank is useless for us who do not have a gas station every 5 miles or so. The carb should be easily swapped to an A version. as for the internals, I can't say 100% but would think the lower end is identical to ours....if anything the cams may have been slightly tweeked? BUT IF the head is junk the bike is worth tops $500 imho.....like you said, engine complete is worth so much, the front forks if good are so much and wheels if good so much the rest is junk wieght! I have tried to part two now, never again! I have only ridden with one once way back, he complained about it and wanted to swap out the seat and tank but couldn't figure it out or wish to pay for it to be done. it's cosmetically different so all attachment points may be diffeent like the tank and seat....something to think about?
$500 is the top dollar I would give them......just tell them where else are they going to sell it? Non-working engine is a total risk imho, nothing fits our bikes...so they are left with front forks and two wheels....maybe...take it or leave it.

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-19-2016, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
Some more details from the salvage yard. I'm going to say that the head is definitely pooched based on this. Would I still be safe to use the old cams in a new head?

This is the response to the question I asked:

the cam holder broke on head side, on exhaust cam, looks like who ever did last valve adjustment did not torque the bolts. the cams do look okay.
Hello 'Willys'. Good to read a posting from you.

klr4evr,
I tried to post about this bike back when. Had it all typed out, previewed, ready to submit, hit the 'Submit' button and fizzelled-out! Dang it. Went home.

I'll guess the PO broke the 'guide channel' off of the LH exhaust bearing cap. If all the pieces are still there, have it welded back together. If the outer flange is missing, have a machinist weld it up and mill a guide back into it. The guide does not have to be perfect, doesn't even have to be very strong. But it does need to be there!

If some bonehead thru the broken parts away, purchase 2 or 3 caps ONLY, off of E-bay. Chances are 1 will fit the dowel pins and have 'enough' clearance. Check the clearance with 3 strips of "Plastigage" all at once. Position them at 10,12 and 2 o'clock.
Minimum clearance at any position, .030mm or about .0012 inches. Maximum clearance at any position, .15mm, yes that is correct .006 inches. Yea, that is a little sloppy, it is a KLR after all!

All the cam journal loading is "UP", and only when the valves are open.
But maybe the bike or part of its parts are already 'Gone'! Sorry!
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-19-2016, 10:16 PM
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Good advice.....hoping for the best as long as he has use of such machines....but if he owns a dremel, anything is possible.....

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