86 KLR 600 - Piston & Valve Help - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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86 KLR 600 - Piston & Valve Help

so i've stumbled my way into KLR land...i recently (as in this past friday) picked up this 1986 klr 600 off of CL for a mere $400 with paperwork.

when i got it, the kicker was stuck and the PO claimed he had good compression in the bike, but of course i forgot to bring my compression tester with me and took his word for it. low and behold when i got home, i took off the head, saw the cam chain timing was way off, and got the engine to kick free in no time. after running a compression test on it, got nothing. pulled off the head and found the piston with two indents in it from the intake valves. the intake valves also appear to be out of sync, as there's gaps and they aren't seated well (forgot to photograph this).

I have to hit 15 posts before I can embed a photo, so if anyone could help me out I could send a message with a link to the photos.

what i'm looking for is is it worth it to do the repair on the valves myself or should i get it machined properly from a machinist? any input would help! thanks dudes
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post #2 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 10:07 AM
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If you have a link to the photos, just post it up, but bodge it up a bit by putting a space after the 'www' or 'http'. I'll fix it for you.

If you want to pm the links to me, that's fine, too.

Tom

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post #3 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
If you have a link to the photos, just post it up, but bodge it up a bit by putting a space after the 'www' or 'http'. I'll fix it for you.

If you want to pm the links to me, that's fine, too.

Tom






just add the ://

thank you!!!

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-02-2016 at 10:17 AM.
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post #4 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 10:33 AM
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Indents in the piston or normal and are for clearance.

If the valves are not closing completely with the head off, then the valves are bent.

Repair would range from doing the bare minimum to likely get it running (new valves and valve stem seals to get it running, plus light three candles for Our Lady of Blessed Compression in the hopes it won't burn too much oil) to a complete head rebuild with new valves, valve seats replaced/cut, and valve guides, all at roughly the cost of the bike.

A picture of the head, showing the top side with the cams out and the bottoms side with the valves would be helpful.

Nice looking bike.

Tom

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post #5 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Indents in the piston or normal and are for clearance.

If the valves are not closing completely with the head off, then the valves are bent.

Repair would range from doing the bare minimum to likely get it running (new valves and valve stem seals to get it running, plus light three candles for Our Lady of Blessed Compression in the hopes it won't burn too much oil) to a complete head rebuild with new valves, valve seats replaced/cut, and valve guides, all at roughly the cost of the bike.

A picture of the head, showing the top side with the cams out and the bottoms side with the valves would be helpful.

Nice looking bike.

Tom
i'll post pictures in a few hours. even those indents look okay though? i was looking through photos of stock pistons and they also seem a little larger than the average indent that a KLR600 piston typically has.
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post #6 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 02:14 PM
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They look pretty normal to me. I don't see any obvious signs of impact, but that doesn't mean that the valves haven't hit the piston.

You said the timing was way off. That could have been from an improper assembly, in which case the valves might have been able to hit the piston on kick-over. That would bend them without leaving much of a mark on the piston.

It could also have been a jumped timing chain while the engine was running, but I'd think that would leave a more obvious mark.

Any real idea how far off the cam timing might have been when you got it?

Tom

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“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

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post #7 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
They look pretty normal to me. I don't see any obvious signs of impact, but that doesn't mean that the valves haven't hit the piston.

You said the timing was way off. That could have been from an improper assembly, in which case the valves might have been able to hit the piston on kick-over. That would bend them without leaving much of a mark on the piston.

It could also have been a jumped timing chain while the engine was running, but I'd think that would leave a more obvious mark.

Any real idea how far off the cam timing might have been when you got it?

Tom
engine didn't kick over when i picked it up. i believe it was the front cam that was more than 90 degrees off from where it was supposed to be. jumping timing chain was what i was thinking, if it was running it would have made a way bigger mark though?

i guess it would make sense if it happened while someone was kicking the bike over, since the timing was way off it would only bend two of the four valves.
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post #8 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 03:28 PM
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I guess how far out of time and under what circumstances it was turned over is all going to be just 'interesting talk'.

What's really going to matter is seeing which valves are bent and how much.

Then the decision will be how to fix it and how much money to spend in doing so.

There's also the possibility that, if the bike sat for a long time, the valve(s) are just stuck.

More pictures will help, and smarter folks will come along with more complete ideas.

Tom

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“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #9 of 24 Old 08-02-2016, 09:08 PM
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My eyes may deceive me, but the piston looks to have had Intake valve contact near the 'center' of the piston from both intake valves.

Spray some carb cleaner/brake cleaner (or pour some gasoline) into the intake and exhaust ports to check valve sealing.

How many miles are on the odometer? It has very clean bodywork!! It should be 'worth' every cent and drop of sweat that you invest into it!

With-out more info/Pics, I'll suggest a very "LIGHT" re-cut of the valve seats, new guide seals and new Intake Valves with a light/fine lapping compound.

Show us 'how much' that you 'love it'!
I'm eagerly anticipating its revival.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 24 Old 09-07-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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okay so....

both new intake valves showed up. we did a good re-cut into the seats and these ones look great. here's our new dilemma: we're looking to measure how much of the valve stem is exposed to make sure it is in spec, which is between 37.13mm - 37.9 mm for the 86 KLR600. we measured 36.9mm and figured we'd need to cut the valve deeper. before we jumped to that, noticed that the oil seal and spring seat (small washer at bottom) were still in. question is, are you supposed to remove these parts to get an accurate measurement? have not yet measured clearance with the cam's reinstalled...

...took a little break these past few weeks but eager to get back into it. carb should be gone through next week and do some good cleaning of parts.

(whoever can help me with photos these are helpful, thanks again to Tom for the help on the last ones, add http : / / )

i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s442/jpokorny2/IMG_4910_zpsshxuohkp.jpg

i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s442/jpokorny2/IMG_4912_zpsewbhizxn.jpg
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