'01 KLR250 in storage 15 years...what to do? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #1 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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'01 KLR250 in storage 15 years...what to do?

Got my first n only bike in '01, before marriage then a decade overseas ended my riding. Bought an '01 KLR250 with only 90 miles that'd been totaled after a drop, from a dealership. No idea why it was totaled, as only damage was the end of one handlebar n a 1in scratch on the flywheel. Nothing more. Bike rode perfectly for 1100 miles before my riding ended. Due to a quick move, had no time to sell it. It's been in a garage n climate-controlled storage n now need to decide what to do with it. Want to start riding again n appreciate any suggestions. Dealers I called for advice said what I expected- it'll cost >$1K to get up n running, But...problems are likely to continue. Both advised to sell it as a project n buy a newer bike. Worked on cars for 20 years when needed, so I'm capable, but have no desire to learn serious bike mechanics right now, so I could do the easy fixes, but paying a mechanic is the only way to get my bike up n running. Shame, bc it still looks new n the parts seem to be worth quite a bit, but I can't part it out. Suggestions? TIA
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 05:40 AM
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A lot depends upon the storage preparation (e.g., fuel tank and carb drained, etc.).

Generally, I'd recommend:

Carburetor clean and adjust if needed (consult, "Carb Overhaul" in "How To . . . " forum on this website; CVK40 instructions and videos valid for your KLR250's CVK34 carb).

Remove and replace all fluids; check fuel tank condition.

Obvious tire inspection/replacement if necessary (dry rot likely).

STARTING FLUID, sometimes, is your friend (keep fire extinguisher handy)!

Kick 'er off and RIDE!
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Last edited by Damocles; 04-27-2018 at 05:47 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 09:37 AM
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Good advice from Damocles. Despite what the dealers tell you there is ZERO reason you can't go through the bike and have it running like a top. I bought a 1974 Cuda about 10 years ago that had been sitting in a chicken coup for 20 years. We flushed the fuel tank, rebuilt the carb, put in a new battery, new tires and did the brakes; it ended up being one of the best running classics that I've ever owned. The "sitting kills vehicles" mantra is largely urban myth, especially if it's been stored in a climate controlled space - nothing beats low mileage.

I bought my 2000 KLR650 two years ago with 577 miles on it; the owner started it up once a year so it didn't even require a carb cleaning. A new battery and new tires were all the bike needed to run like new.

I'd second Damocles' suggestions; as far as the tires, I'd replace them regardless. Check the gas tank for rust, take apart the carb and clean, new battery and a complete service. You could always try running it with fresh fuel first, you might get lucky

Cheers,
Dave
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 11:12 AM
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A gallon of Original Scent or Formula Pine-Sol in a plastic Coffee can, can be used full strength to soak the varnish out of the disassembled carburetor, including the rubber parts. Rinse with water & dry. Then purge all passages with aerosol carb cleaner & compressed air.

Then pour the Pine-Sol into the fuel tank with the fuel tap Still Installed to clean out the varnish in the fuel tank. Soak on 1st one side for a while (30 minutes), then shake, shake, shake. Then other side. Then up-side down. Then normal position. A hand full of small nuts & washers can help. Inspect with flash light, from fuel tap & cap. Continue for as long as needed. Drain into plastic bucket to allow inspection. Rinse Pine-sol out of fuel tank with water. blow most of water out. Pour in a bottle of ISO-Heet fuel tank winter fuel treatment to absorb the remaining water, roll the tank to follow the seams. Pour out & dry with compressed air or reversed vacuum cleaner.

Disassemble fuel tap & soak in Pine-Sol. Lube rubber parts with silicone grease or vasoline.

Replace the old, mouse eaten, rotten foam air filter with a properly oiled New Foam air filter.

Follow the others earlier mechanical advice and ride safe.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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What a great welcome to have such knowledgeable riders offering so much. I appreciate the time more than I can say. I'd read a bit re the carb cleaning n other necessary cleaning/replacing, some from you guys, on other discussions, and though it seemed intimidating, you guys make it sound less so, n more of a fun project. All the optimism brings me to ask if there's anything you could hear that might have you rethink n tell me to sell it off? Ie, if X is broken or Y is rotted away? For example, I did no prep except drain the tank after (now I recall!) I found a slow leak of gas from ~where the gas line connects. Hasn't been started since 2003, but the kickstart still feels fine. Brake levers are locked.
Also, my main consideration is- Days of work + ~$600 = a 17yr old bike w/kickstart n a carburetor...n a possibility of problems creeping up down the road (literally). Whereas, that $600 + $2500 = a Safer, elec-start, fuel-injected '15 CRF250L with <5K miles (though I'm loving what I read about the Kawa Versys X-300)...See my conundrum? TIA
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-27-2018, 10:08 PM
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Labor of Love vs quick Sex. I understand.

Labor of Love is always more Rewarding!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-28-2018, 11:30 PM
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The dealer you talked to is full of crap. There is NOTHING wrong with KLR that was parked for 15 years (and there is nothing that can "creep up" in the future, because it was parked!). I know. I've got one like that too. Dropped in 2003 (2003 model), and never started again (until 2 weeks ago!). No varnish anywhere, carb disassembled/cleaned, fluids/tires replaced,.....and it runs GREAT! I "worked" (parenthesis because that's not "work"...it's FUN!) on it through the winter (no rush), and with help from some people over here, the bike looks/runs like new (it started last week with 1287 original miles, and got 185 more in a week!).

Gen1 KLR is my favorite "do it all" bike. It looks like a motorcycle, and not a transformer toy. They can keep their Versys'. I like "retro".
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-29-2018, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danielsand View Post
I know. I've got one like that too.
You own BOTH, a KLR650 and also a KLR250 (topic of this thread), Danielsand?

So do I!

What a coincidence!

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-29-2018, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again, n the optimism is convincing. Seems, no one has any thoughts from the perspective of money/value. Hm. So it'd help to get some idea of how many hours you'd expect an inexperienced mechanic take to get read up on n do All the work, start to finish, not including time in a shop for tires replacement. Any estimates? 15-20, 20-25, 25-30 hours?
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-29-2018, 05:20 PM
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Shop hours are around $ 100 per, hereabouts.

The value of your KLR250 will be exceeded rather soon at that rate.

Thus, a valid economic decision, in my view, is . . . DIY (do it yourself), or sell the bike as-is to someone who wishes to DIH (do it himself).

Another KLR250 owner (such as Danielsand) might buy it as-is for a parts bike.

The shop you consulted initially gave you a, "highball" estimate, IMHO (perhaps because they don't want to fool with an "obsolete" bike, like a KLR250); you might shop around for a reputable dealership or independent motorcycle garage for a better-considered, and likely more favorable, estimate.
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