1987 KLR 250 Beautiful Rust Bucket Restoration Build - Page 5 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #41 of 75 Old 07-24-2018, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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pdwestman, you´re awesome, thanks!
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post #42 of 75 Old 07-25-2018, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hey All,


I removed the rotor bolt from the crankshaft with a 250 ft-lb air impact gun. Came off nice and easy without having to prevent flywheel rotation.

How the heck do I reinstall this thing??

1.) Reuse bolt or buy new? (reading around from KLR 650 forums, it seems like a mix of people reusing them)


2.) I´ve been googling for a decent amount of time at this point and even talked to the kawi dealer service dept, neither were able to tell me what torque specs are required here...?? All I´ve seen is 130 ft lbs for KLR 650.

3.) Ok, so lets say I now know answers to 1 and 2... if I need somewhere around 130 ft lbs, how do I properly prevent the engine from rotating clockwise (reverse). Maybe a rubber strap wrench? I quote from the kawi dealer service dept rep, "Yeah, I can´t find torque specs, but if you´re asking how I´d do it? I´d just rattle gun (impact) it.¨ I asked him how comfortable he was using 250 ft lbs on an unknown torque spec and he said just don´t hold it very long.

Any help? I couldn´t comfortably do this without you guys, thanks!
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post #43 of 75 Old 07-25-2018, 10:23 PM
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JEEZES! Ain't nobody got any paper books any more! 87 ft lbs on the Original Bolt. Tapers 'Clean & Dry'. Probably the same 32 mm, bent open end wrench as a KLR600 or 650 to hold the rotor from turning.

Strap wrench might work.

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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #44 of 75 Old 07-26-2018, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
JEEZES! Ain't nobody got any paper books any more! 87 ft lbs on the Original Bolt. Tapers 'Clean & Dry'. Probably the same 32 mm, bent open end wrench as a KLR600 or 650 to hold the rotor from turning.

Strap wrench might work.

ha good point!

I´ve been using this useful free online klr250 supplemental service manual:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12...50.html#manual

but it does state, ¨The KLR250 Service Manual Supplement is designed to be used in conjunction with the KLR600 Motorcycle Service Manual (P/N 99924-1050-01). The maintenance and repair procedures described in this supplement are only those that are unique to the KLR250 motorcycle.¨

That might explain why the section that I found on installing the flywheel looks like this:


Just, ¨tighten to specified torque¨ without stating torque spec anywhere else in the supplement.
I guess I should be buying the KLR600 service manual...

That being said, pdwestman, saving me again, many thanks.
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post #45 of 75 Old 07-26-2018, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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well, after realizing that my supplemental service manual was free online...

I managed to find the rest of it. Originally I hadn´t noticed the comment about the two manuals needing to work in conjunction so it felt strange taking torque specs from a KLR600 manual. but thanks to pdwestman, this manual confirms his torque spec so I´m happy knowing I have the full set going forward. Hard copies would be nice but just in case anyone else hasn´t found these online versions yet...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12...50.html#manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/99...00.html#manual

here´s a screenshot from the klr 600 manual confirming the torque spec:
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post #46 of 75 Old 08-02-2018, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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Got some more work done in the last couple of days, so I should have a few updates coming.

Just wanted to summarize my coolant system grime and restoration:

A little while back I flushed the dirty coolant reservoir from the previous owner...and found a bit of goo


I flushed the system multiple times. The existing gasket was shredded so I went to grab my brand new water pump gasket from the $18 ebay pack, pictured here with additional klr250 parts...


Hold the phone... my new ebay water pump gasket doesn´t fit?? But I paid 18 whole dollars for 12 gaskets..

So I Went to Oreilly´s and picked up some cheap water pump paper gasket material and made a thing..



It worked really well with light taps from my ball peen hammer after holding the material in place with the water pump housing bolts. Box cutter helped to clean up some edges. Also using some water pump silicon rtv gasket sealant.


Photo showing ebay gasket on top of custom gasket


Quick black plastic paint on coolant reservoir looks brand new




I´ve never flushed out old coolant that looked like...well, how it did. Seemed to only be in the reservoir and there were several ´clumps.´ Normal?
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post #47 of 75 Old 08-02-2018, 09:09 AM
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That goo looks almost like someone used some Barr's Leak or similar sealing product.
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post #48 of 75 Old 08-02-2018, 10:59 AM
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Waphho, Sorry I missed your posting from 7-25-18. You might also look at the torque spec in the diagram of Electrical system 15-4 of your free on-line 250 manual, should be the same as my paper manual.

Glad to see the project coming together.

pdwestman
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post #49 of 75 Old 08-02-2018, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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pdwestman.... ok ok, you win. Just revisited it and apparently I do not know how to read manuals. I´m going paper from now on because waiting for each page to load on my shitty computer makes it kinda tough to skim for everything. No excuses though, I shouldve been searching harder before jumping to you guys for help.

klrophile, thanks for the heads up! Can anyone else confirm this on the coolant goo? I´d love to know if the previous owner was attempting to plug a leak...
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post #50 of 75 Old 08-02-2018, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Basic Engine Clean Up and Rotor Bolt Re-installation:

I happened to have a 32 mm wrench for removing my car´s fan...

with my brother holding the 32mm and myself on the engine and torque wrench, we managed to sketchily hit 87 ft-lbs. Definitely use an offset wrench. I decided against diving further into the engine after already removing the rotor bolt. I don´t trust the gaskets I have and I´d rather deal with an engine issue when it actually comes up rather than causing one myself. Basically, I removed the rotor bolt just because I wanted to.. gotta learn somehow.





Dirty Copper Exhaust Gasket and Build up:


Scraped out most of the carbon build up and then soaked shop towels in carb cleaner to clean up the surface prior to placing the new copper gasket:





Used scotchbrite pads, degreaser, and a rotary tool with scotchbrite/wire brush heads. Then taped random places:





Gonna just cover it in Black VHT Engine Enamel, leaving various covers in some sort of grey/silver/chrome... but first, weather in Washington State has been perfect... hard to hermit in the garage... had to go see a field on the 650:
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