1984 kl600 output shaft seal - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #1 of 19 Old 10-19-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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1984 kl600 output shaft seal

Has anyone done the output shaft seal on a 84 kl600? I think I might have screwed up on trying to get the output shaft seal out. It looks like it's installed from inside the case. Please say it ain't so. Please tell me my mind is playing tricks on me and it comes out from the outside. If it from the inside, my bike is down for awhile. Somebody that's done it, please some good news.
thanks, Tim
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post #2 of 19 Old 10-20-2018, 10:38 AM
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Arrrghh.

I'm answering because no one who might be more knowledgeable on this has.

First off, I have never laid eyes on an A1 case where the sprocket was off so I don't have first-hand knowledge.

That said, I have never seen a seal, which is a wear item, that was mounted such that it couldn't be serviced without the job being horrible and depressing. Certainly, every KLR I have seen was serviceable in this area.

The KLR600 A1 case was unique to that year (Kawasaki seemed to do a lot of stumbling and aimless wandering with both the KLR600s and the early KLR650s in the case department) and they have done, and still do, a lot of weird and stupid shit.

All in all, I'd have to say that I doubt the countershaft seal can only be replaced by splitting cases, but a picture would help everyone who might have some input.

My offer of hostin' and postin' pictures for you stands as per my PM.

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post #3 of 19 Old 10-20-2018, 12:36 PM
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Go to a parts screen. https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/Parts.../1984/KL600-A1

Dang those dirty devils!! The parts screen does show the seal installed from the Inside! The OEM service manual line drawing does show the retainer lip on the outside of the case!!

Part # 92049-1159 is superseded to 92049-1577 and used on KLR650 from the Outside. Kawasaki was apparently afraid that oil pressure might blow the seal out of the case, therefore they trapped it. But all is not lost yet. You may be able to perform an external replacement yet. The KLR650 does not have that lip & it stays in.

DO NOT DAMAGE THE OIL SHIELD/SEAL IN THE TRANSMISSION BEARING, or you will be repairing the long/hard way!

One will need to Carefully grind off that exterior lip. THEN CLEAN THE AREA. Then remove the exterior seal, collar & o-ring. Carefully examine that you didn't damage the oil shield/seal on the bearing, (crossing my fingers). Clean the shaft, oil & replace the o-ring, oil the bore & seal & install the new seal til FLUSH with exterior case. Oil & Insert the collar (4 scallops towards the bearing).

Now if you desire insurance of seal retention, degrease & dry the area and apply some Permatex Cold Weld or JB Weld Quick Set Epoxy over machined lip of case & edge of the new seal.

Does this sound doable for your experience level?
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Last edited by pdwestman; 10-20-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 10-21-2018, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Pdwestman,
Your idea is doable and I'm comfortable doing it. I think. I am a machinist, but what tool? Would you use a die grinder?

Tom,
I sent you some pics. Hope they went through. Computers are not my strong point.
Thanks to both of you guys,
Tim
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-21-2018, 04:24 PM
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Unfortunately, I haven't received any pictures. If you give me your e-mail address I can send you an e-mail you can reply to.

Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-21-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-21-2018, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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I can't believe that kawasaki engineers would design a wear part like that. Morons. Man, if I had it apart, it would be an easy fix. I run a big vertical lathe at work. Anyways, im thinking of the best way to do it in the bike. Tool? Any thoughts?
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post #8 of 19 Old 10-22-2018, 12:26 AM
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Right click and "Open in New Tab" to see full-size images.








Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-22-2018, 12:29 AM
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KLR650 for comparison.





Tom [email protected]

The kid poured him another straight rye and I think he doctored it with water down behind the bar because when he came up with it he looked as guilty as if he'd kicked his grandmother. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-22-2018, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984klr600a1 View Post
I can't believe that kawasaki engineers would design a wear part like that. Morons. Man, if I had it apart, it would be an easy fix. I run a big vertical lathe at work. Anyways, im thinking of the best way to do it in the bike. Tool? Any thoughts?
Die Grinder or Dremel Tool. Pretend that you are a dentist for while and be careful. If the old seal has a gap around the collar just put some grease around it.

Just to be clear, the pics which Tom just provided are of a KLR650 which the oil seal was installed TOO Deeply.
I don't think that Tom was encouraging you to attempt to grind out your case seal pocket to look like that.

I'll say again, just make it flush.

pdwestman
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