1989 KLR 250 for Wife - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #21 of 29 Old 01-15-2019, 01:16 AM
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Also, my bike took about 2 and 1/3 quarts of oil. Is that normal? I got the level to be about halfway in the sight glass window, maybe a hair more.
Oil capacity (per Kawasaki KLR250 Supplement): 1.2 L; 1.5 L (filter changed), to Engine # KL250DE01386;

Later engines:

1.7 L; 2.0 L (filter changed).

2 and 1/3 quarts? Pretty close to 2.0 L, I think; that said, I think the key to adequate sump oil resides in the sight glass, bike vertical. Top of glass? No harm, as pdwestman posts above.
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post #22 of 29 Old 01-16-2019, 10:49 AM
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800 bucks to make the wife is happy! What are you waiting on?

ďTake the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.Ē Hitchens
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post #23 of 29 Old 01-16-2019, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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800 bucks to make the wife is happy! What are you waiting on?


Got it for $700, but it didnít make her happy. I dropped it off with a friend to try to figure out why I donít have electrical to anything on the bike. Once I get that fixed, I can license and title the bike and try to flip it. Iíll probably ride it around while itís for sale.
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post #24 of 29 Old 01-16-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical issue is fixed. Poor connection in one of the connectors under the seat. No big deal at all. I have my friend checking the valves. Found a sticker that says intake and exhaust valves should be 0.20-0.24mm so thatís what heís checking next. He said the front brake lever sometimes doesnít go forward enough to allow the brake light to go off. Says you have to push it forward with your hand a little and the brake light goes off. Said the hi/lo headlight switch isnít making a good connection. Says hi and lo both work, but you have to jiggle the switch sometimes to change between the two.
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post #25 of 29 Old 01-19-2019, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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My guy checked the valves and said they were in spec, but now says the bike wonít start. Itís always been 1 or 2 kick and it fires right up. Anything specific he should look for?
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post #26 of 29 Old 01-19-2019, 04:24 PM
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Spark, compression, combustible mixture.

For the last, STARTING FLUID removes all doubt (if it runs on starting fluid, but not its own gasoline . . . carburetor problem likely).

Don't know HOW he checked the valves; if he ADJUSTED them, perhaps he chose the WRONG TDC piston position (there are TWO, each 4-stroke cycle).

If the bike was running when you turned it over to your friend, chances are he did something preventing it starting now. Not much to go on enlightening diagnosis, but . . . you DO need the triumvirate of spark, compression, and combustible mixture for the engine to run. Reckon he didn't inadvertently engage the KILL SWITCH? If spark detected, guess not.
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post #27 of 29 Old 01-19-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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1989 KLR 250 for Wife

He says he didnít do any adjusting to the valves as they were in spec. I told him the bike had a sticker that said 0.20-0.24mm for both intake and exhaust valves. He said he would get it figured out. Has to be something easy because the thing started and ran like a sewing machine beforehand.
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post #28 of 29 Old 01-19-2019, 05:02 PM
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Maybe check for spark.

BTW, KLR250 ignition has NOTHING to do with battery; powered by alternating current only from exciter coils of stator.

The engine obviously has compression (valves not adjusted from running condition). You can spray starting fluid into the carburetor, insuring a combustible mixture. Yet, you'll need a spark to ignite the mixture.
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post #29 of 29 Old 01-20-2019, 08:24 AM
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Carb drained? Fresh fuel? Maybe a shot of HEET?

Gasket material in the petcock assembly has been known to shear off in time, clogging orifices/passages in the carb; might need a good carb cleaning (see, "Carb Overhaul" thread on this website).

Good luck!
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