93 klx-c 650 charging issue: tested all components - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 19 Old 02-19-2019, 03:21 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,528
Started my personal bike a bit ago. Its charging system will also fade .3 - .4 volts between absolute maximum & stabilized fully recharged after initial cold start up.

Lithium Iron battery, static voltage before start, 13.22vdc. Its been about 4-5 weeks since engine last run.

This is the second run today.
Voltage dropped to 11.38 volts ON starter.

13.17 - 13.19volts @ 1100rpm shortly off choke, 70f shop temp.

14.44 - 14.50volts @ 4000rpm sustained fully stabilized / re-charged from start-up. About 5-6 minutes run time.

Decrease rpm towards idle and voltage spiked up to 14.74 as throttled down. Saw 14.88 2 hours ago.

13.17 - 13.19volts @ 1200rpm 190f hot idle.

12.99 - 13.02volts @ 1200rpm 215-220f Fan On hot idle.

Been about 30 minutes since engine turned off. Now 13.28volts.

pdwestman
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post #12 of 19 Old 02-22-2019, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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I monitored the voltage draw within 11 days
10/19 @12.68
10/23 @ 12.53
10/30 @ 12.34

A friend suggested this wasnt bad. But youre saying otherwise?
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post #13 of 19 Old 02-22-2019, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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I'll suggest that you currently have a weak battery. A 'GOOD' AGM battery should be nearer 12.8 - 13.0 volts at rest and should not fade away nearly that quickly.
You have replaced several batteries as I recall.

Are the batteries which you are purchasing all the same brand and from the place?

Are they pre-fill & supposedly fully charged, Ready to Install? What was their voltage at time of installation?

Or are they in a box, with an acid pack? And you have to fill & charge? If so, what kind of charger are you using?

Electrical systems are not my strong suit, I'm hoping others might join the conversation.

I don't know if this @Damocles or @Tom Schmitz is supposed to send a notice to members. I occasionally see my name hi-lited in Blue, but I just happened to stumble into the posting.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #14 of 19 Old 02-22-2019, 07:25 PM
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Age of battery?

If reasonably new, I'd suspect a parasitic load--ohm meter test, disconnected positive terminal cable to ground might indicate one.

Otherwise, pdwestman's suggestion may be valid; bad battery. Charging voltages appear copacetic with lithium requirements I've read.

Then, again . . . the voltage drop ain't bad, as your friend said; if the bike reliably starts, a non-problem, IMHO.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-01-2019, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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I just tested the charging system with another battery and got the same results. Its relatively new , an acid battery, that i keep on a trickle charger. So im ruling out the battery.
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post #16 of 19 Old 03-01-2019, 07:52 PM
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What was that batteries "at rest" voltage at least 1 hour off of charger?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #17 of 19 Old 03-05-2019, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Why does that matter? The charging system isnt acting as it should with two different batteries and all of my component tests have passed, i mean obviously im missing something but its not what the battery is resting at
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post #18 of 19 Old 03-06-2019, 11:10 AM
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Just because you had that second battery on a trickle charger does Not Prove that it was or is a "Good" battery either!
The strength & durability of any battery is highly dependant of its initial filling /saturating & charging. A weak or failing battery may not be allowing your charging system to gain its full potential 14.2 -14.5 volts at 4000+ rpm?

Maybe it is the clutch / kickstand / neutral safety switches causing your non starts? But if connecting a jumper battery or installing a battery which is just off of a battery charger (even if it is also a failing battery) and the starter motor immediately cranks over and the engine starts, I have to Question the battery or batteries.

Accurate charging system testing requires a proven 'Good' battery.
Your bike was originally designed & equipped to use an AGM battery. So to properly test its charging system we should have a proven good AGM battery with Very Near if not slightly Above 12.8 volts. Is your volt meter accurate?
Does your multi-meter have a milliamp scale to test for current flow before connecting the negative cable to the bike? I think I re-read that you have a radio installed.

Can you take all of your 'freshly' maintained/re-charged batteries to a retailer with an appropriate motorcycle sized battery tester/analyzer? Within a day after charging, but at least 1 hour after charging? Even with those fancy testers, the batteries need to be 'at-rest' for at least 1 hour or they will give an in-accurate result!
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #19 of 19 Old 03-27-2019, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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chanceafrica, Did you ever get your charging system improved?

Here is a little more information about the Mosfet regulators. You will probably have to log in to see the charging system graph. Looks like exactly what you wish for.

https://www.klr650.net/forums/showpo...97&postcount=9

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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