1990 KLR Tengai Resto-mod.... Maybe - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #21 of 108 Old 12-30-2019, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ironranger88 View Post
I have no Idea which gear that was, but it's on the input shaft. If You know anyone in need of a Transmission with a Vegas dog (broke and busted)... I might know where they can get one cheap! lol
OK, Input shaft / Third Smallest / 3rd gear.

Sliding Gear engages/locks 4th gear to the input shaft on that LH side. 5th gear is engaged/locked to the input shaft on the RH side.

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post #22 of 108 Old 01-01-2020, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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WELLP!

Another Day down... The 1990 AZ Case and the 1999 (some parts were marked) Head/ Cams/ Crank are all Assembled! The only significant thing I ran into was that the "tension-er sprocket" (the one that the doohicky) sits on, between the 1990 and 1999 were slightly different. The 1999 case is actually machined down to accommodate a thicker washer underneath, while the 1990 has a recessed gear. Kinda odd, but I had to reuse the 1990 Tension-er gear to match the case even though the rubber was kinda gouged up. I'm looking for another good one to use in there. Good enough for now.

The engine is in and ready to do a first start! EXCEPT, for the fact that there are some VERY strange wiring decisions made somewhere in this bikes past that I'm not so sure about... I'm going to investigate further before attempting to FRY EVERYTHING!

1- I see they did a kick stand sensor delete. Cool Cool.
2- There is a Blue/ Black wire splice near the Main Wiring harness.. No Idea
3- Red/white and red spliced into brown or something.. No Idea.
4- Starter Relay looks like its.... Missing something...
5- Lots of fun happening near the fuse/ battery area i'm going to have to look at. Some of which looks like they ran an extra set of brake lights in the past.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 26.jpg (485.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 27.jpg (444.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 28.jpg (457.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 31.jpg (471.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 29.jpg (458.9 KB, 9 views)
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post #23 of 108 Old 01-01-2020, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironranger88 View Post
...
2- There is a Blue/ Black wire splice near the Main Wiring harness.. No Idea
3- Red/white and red spliced into brown or something.. No Idea.
4- Starter Relay looks like its.... Missing something...
5- Lots of fun happening near the fuse/ battery area i'm going to have to look at. Some of which looks like they ran an extra set of brake lights in the past.
I swear, some people could **** up a wet dream.

Tom [email protected]

“I still held his automatic more or less pointed at him, but he swung on me just the same. It caught me flush on the chin. It was meant to be a hard one, but a pansy has no iron in his bones, whatever he looks like.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #24 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 10:17 AM
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ironranger88,
Did you use the Solid engine balancer sprockets or the early 'spring damped' sprockets? Hopefully you used the solid ones. The upper rear solid sprocket takes a thrust washer behind it, #92022-1880.
Wish that you had ordered an EM Doo-Hickey & Torsion Spring instead of using the welded (brittle) 1999 engine balancer locking lever & extension spring. How much remaining travel does the spring have?
I highly recommend that one always turn the engine CCW to TDC before loosening the locking bolt for balancer adjustment. This gets all of the slack on the proper side & the weights in neutral (assembly) position. And never over-torque the locking bolt (70 inch pounds).

Here are the 1990 & 1999 engine balancer parts pages to compare.

1990, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...068f0/balancer

1999, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...8cb71/balancer (I don't think this illustration is Accurate!)

2001, shows solid upper rear sprocket, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...903ad/balancer (I'm still not certain that lower front sprocket illustration is accurate?)

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #25 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
ironranger88,
Did you use the Solid engine balancer sprockets or the early 'spring damped' sprockets? Hopefully you used the solid ones. The upper rear solid sprocket takes a thrust washer behind it, #92022-1880.
Wish that you had ordered an EM Doo-Hickey & Torsion Spring instead of using the welded (brittle) 1999 engine balancer locking lever & extension spring. How much remaining travel does the spring have?
I highly recommend that one always turn the engine CCW to TDC before loosening the locking bolt for balancer adjustment. This gets all of the slack on the proper side & the weights in neutral (assembly) position. And never over-torque the locking bolt (70 inch pounds).

Here are the 1990 & 1999 engine balancer parts pages to compare.

1990, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...068f0/balancer

1999, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...8cb71/balancer (I don't think this illustration is Accurate!)

2001, shows solid upper rear sprocket, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...903ad/balancer (I'm still not certain that lower front sprocket illustration is accurate?)

Hey, Thanks for the info. Yes I did the Eagle Mike Doohicky. Unfortunatly, both engines had the "spring" sprockets in the top right hand and lower left, so I just used the nicer of the two sets, but the idler spockets were just machined differently in width for some reason. I didn't feel like grinding down my case to fit the thicker (newer 1999) idler sprocket, but there were no other differences in them besides width.
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post #26 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm... Got the bike to light up, But no start with the start button. It'll turn over if I jump the starter relay (so the starter is working well)

Basically spent all morning Sanding copper connections in the ignition, shut off switch, Clutch and putting the wiring back to stock as much as possible. Any Idea if these wires in the starter relay are in the correct area? Is there supposed to be a fuse in there?

Looks Like My starter "lock out" switch is tampered with. The BL/R and BK/Y wires are spliced and the LG (light green) wire is connected to another LG wire. I don't know what's going on here.

Will keep looking into it. Anybody more knowledgeable about this one?
Thanks
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post #27 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironranger88 View Post
Hmm... Got the bike to light up, But no start with the start button. It'll turn over if I jump the starter relay (so the starter is working well)

Basically spent all morning Sanding copper connections in the ignition, shut off switch, Clutch and putting the wiring back to stock as much as possible. Any Idea if these wires in the starter relay are in the correct area? Is there supposed to be a fuse in there?

Looks Like My starter "lock out" switch is tampered with. The BL/R and BK/Y wires are spliced and the LG (light green) wire is connected to another LG wire. I don't know what's going on here.

Will keep looking into it. Anybody more knowledgeable about this one?
Thanks
That starter relay is not like either Gen 1 or 2. When you apply 12V DC power to that relay it should operate (hear a click) closing the contacts providing power to the starter motor. On the Gen 1s, there is a "starter circuit relay" (what gets energized when you push the starter button), that provides power to the "starter relay" - see the wiring schematic - Tengai should be same.



I noticed on one of the previous pictures you posted, that the main ground wire wasn't connected (black/yellow). That's a critical connection, carries a lot of current. In this pic, note I've upgraded that connector to Gen 2 style. Also, note the common blade fuse mod upgrade (harness on the left) to replace the glass fuse block (on the right, currently connected).


Last edited by GreatWhiteNorth; 01-02-2020 at 02:47 PM.
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post #28 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 03:04 PM
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What you have in that picture is more or less correct. It should be a Bk/Y and a Bk wire. It is supposed to be in a connector, but that is a refinement for later.


I would suspect a switch failure in the safety circuit, so check the clutch switch, kickstand switch, and the neutral switch for proper operation.
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Tom [email protected]

“I still held his automatic more or less pointed at him, but he swung on me just the same. It caught me flush on the chin. It was meant to be a hard one, but a pansy has no iron in his bones, whatever he looks like.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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post #29 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 05:03 PM
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So from the wiring color code and schematic, it would appear that ....

These are supposed to be where the fuse block connects to the battery
(2x glass fuses, 1-for main @20Amp, and 1-for headlight @10Amp)


This is most likely the bypass for the side-stand safety switch.



This is most likely the bypass for the clutch safety switch.


... also, the standard KLR switch block looks like this (borrowed from epay).
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Last edited by foo; 01-02-2020 at 05:06 PM.
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post #30 of 108 Old 01-02-2020, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Tom Schmitz;695823]What you have in that picture is more or less correct. It should be a Bk/Y and a Bk wire. It is supposed to be in a connector, but that is a refinement for later.


I would suspect a switch failure in the safety circuit, so check the clutch switch, kickstand switch, and the neutral switch for proper operation.[/QUO

Hey, Very Helpful Thank you. Actually The Starter Relay is just that. It connects when the starter button is pressed to allow the LARGE current to flow along side it directly to the starter. Then #31 (this image has labled as "kick stand relay") Is actually a little more, It sorts out ALL of the odds and end relays to allow EVERYTHING to connect. Then allows the starter button to work. It's called the "Starter Circut Relay" In my service manual. After some light headache and testing it.... MINE IS BAD! HOORAY problem found.

Thank you
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