1990 KLR 650 Tengai rock guard - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
Other KLR's - 250, 600, Tengai, C Models, KLX... Discussion of all the OTHER KLR models.

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post #1 of 17 Old 02-06-2020, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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1990 KLR 650 Tengai rock guard

Mocking up a rock guard/ splash guard/ skid plate for my Tengai.. anyone have any suggestions or examples I can look at?
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-06-2020, 10:40 PM
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I only wish they had built it about 2" longer to the rear.

https://www.happy-trail.com/find-you...650-b-tth.html

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-06-2020, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I only wish they had built it about 2" longer
[/url]
Oh man, I wish something like that would fit, but being the tengai and having the engine guards, I cant find anything that works
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-07-2020, 10:43 AM
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I see no reason that the HT plate won't work. It fits with the HT Highway Peg/Brush guard that mounts where your Crash bars attach up front.

https://www.happy-trail.com/pd-nerf-...l-klr650e.html

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-07-2020, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I see no reason that the HT plate won't work. It fits with the HT Highway Peg/Brush guard that mounts where your Crash bars attach up front.

https://www.happy-trail.com/pd-nerf-...l-klr650e.html
Oh yeah, that isn't bad.
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-13-2020, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Got the mock up done and cut out the templates in a 10g belly with 12g sides. Now just trying to figure out how I want to put decorative holes and such.
The original phase some expanded plastic. Should I cut out the front for cooling or is that aesthetic?
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post #7 of 17 Old 02-13-2020, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ironranger88 View Post
Got the mock up done and cut out the templates in a 10g belly with 12g sides. Now just trying to figure out how I want to put decorative holes and such.
The original phase some expanded plastic. Should I cut out the front for cooling or is that aesthetic?
It's aesthetic. Maybe some passive cooling on the case but not much

Couple drain holes on the bottom might be a good idea
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-13-2020, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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[/quote]

It's aesthetic. Maybe some passive cooling on the case but not much

Couple drain holes on the bottom might be a good idea[/QUOTE]

Cool, yeah, I've got a big one for the oil drain. Will add some pretty holes somewhere eventually.. thanks. I'll leave it solid for now up front
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-13-2020, 05:00 PM
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It's aesthetic. Maybe some passive cooling on the case but not much

Couple drain holes on the bottom might be a good idea
It's aesthetic. Maybe some passive cooling on the case but not much

Couple drain holes on the bottom might be a good idea[/QUOTE]

Cool, yeah, I've got a big one for the oil drain. Will add some pretty holes somewhere eventually.. thanks. I'll leave it solid for now up front[/QUOTE]


I would not advise any additional holes on the bottom & no larger than necessary for the drain plug hole (Too late).
Drain plugs have been snagged thru other brand skid plates with too large of holes.

I highly encourage the plates to be spaced Down to allow a minimum of 1/2 inch between top of plate & bottom of drain plugs.

Holes allow rocks and tree branch stubbs to snag on plates. It needs to slide smoothly over stuff. And the KLR engine oil normally runs Colder than Necessary.

You need to make a Doo-Hickey adjustment hole or scallop on the LH side. The Doo needs to be allowed to make re-adjustment every 5000 miles or so.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-13-2020, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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[/QUOTE]


I would not advise any additional holes on the bottom & no larger than necessary for the drain plug hole (Too late).
Drain plugs have been snagged thru other brand skid plates with too large of holes.

I highly encourage the plates to be spaced Down to allow a minimum of 1/2 inch between top of plate & bottom of drain plugs.

Holes allow rocks and tree branch stubbs to snag on plates. It needs to slide smoothly over stuff. And the KLR engine oil normally runs Colder than Necessary.

You need to make a Doo-Hickey adjustment hole or scallop on the LH side. The Doo needs to be allowed to make re-adjustment every 5000 miles or so.[/QUOTE]

Cool cool. Good ideas!
I made a 1 1/2 hole for the oil drain plug. Was about the right size for the drain plug and getting a socket to fit right. I left about 1/4 of room for the bottom of the engine. No drain plug is showing, but I am trying to figure out a way to insert the bolts under to be flush. Will be a fun thing to do this weekend.

Probably will end up putting in some incerts to counter bore some Allen heads
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