Got the mock up done and cut out the templates in a 10g belly with 12g sides. Now just trying to figure out how I want to put decorative holes and such.
The original phase some expanded plastic. Should I cut out the front for cooling or is that aesthetic?
I would not advise any additional holes on the bottom & no larger than necessary for the drain plug hole (Too late).
Drain plugs have been snagged thru other brand skid plates with too large of holes.
I highly encourage the plates to be spaced Down to allow a minimum of 1/2 inch between top of plate & bottom of drain plugs.
Holes allow rocks and tree branch stubbs to snag on plates. It needs to slide smoothly over stuff. And the KLR engine oil normally runs Colder than Necessary.
You need to make a Doo-Hickey adjustment hole or scallop on the LH side. The Doo needs to be allowed to make re-adjustment every 5000 miles or so.[/QUOTE]
Cool cool. Good ideas!
I made a 1 1/2 hole for the oil drain plug. Was about the right size for the drain plug and getting a socket to fit right. I left about 1/4 of room for the bottom of the engine. No drain plug is showing, but I am trying to figure out a way to insert the bolts under to be flush. Will be a fun thing to do this weekend.
Probably will end up putting in some incerts to counter bore some Allen heads
I use rubber donut holes, hole-sawed from mud-flaps, conveyor belting or even non-steel belted tires to put between frame & skid plates. A stack of flat washers or a larger nut could properly space the plate and the under engine mounting tabs that I believe you are using.
I suppose some rubber strips against the frame would help vibrations. Good idea.
Rubber donut holes? You mean like rubber bushings (like the gas tank ?)
Got the mounting figured out. Have about 1/4 gap from the bottom of the engine and a little more from the frame. Inset the rubber mounts to have the bolts inset or flushed. Now just need to figure out how to pretty it up
In regards to pic #2, You are LUCKY that your engine is still using the OEM factory drain plug. Why you might ask?
Because its threads are more fully FORMED clear to the head of the bolt and it is MISSING the thick aluminum Gasket!
(Will usually seal without even a drip.)
Had it been any number of aftermarket drain plugs, usually with magnetic tips and the gasket left off or lost in drain pan their INCOMPLETELY Cut Threads usually Split the drain boss Wide Open, when they have no gasket.
Your drain plug Needs a 92065-097, gasket, aluminum. They are about 1/8 inch thick. 12mm gaskets from auto parts stores should also work.
One can simply lay the bike down on its Right Side and install a gasket without draining the engine oil. That way it is Not Forgotten before next oil change.
I Really like the extra length to the rear of the engine. But I still suggest Stiffer rubber cushions between the skid plate and frame tubes, to prevent bending of the tiny, weak, oem metal rear mounting tabs, should the plate ever make solid contact.
I finished the guard for the most part. Needs detail work, but I've put about 500 miles on with it, banging it up, bottoming it out and getting high centered . It freaking wonderful to have I there. Also, these engine guards are invaluable.. I put it down pretty hard yesterday in the dirt and it took some paint off the engine rails and bent the rear blinker. That's it. Love it
With those FULL Length Polisport fork boots on there, they will 'coil-bind' before the front suspension can use its full Travel.
I'll recommend that you trim the lower mounting flange and probably 5 or 6 pleats off of them and then use Stainless Safety Wire double wrapped & twisted in the now bottom pleat in the attachment groove.
You may also need to use a Hot Wire to melt 4 or 5 new air vent holes into the next lowest pleat on the back-side only to prevent 'Ballooning' during fork travel.
Only the OEM boots fit properly (with-out coil bind) in my opinion. The DayStar #58s are almost too small of ID in the pleated area & will also 'coil-bind' if unmodified, if I recall correctly.
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