Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

21 - 40 of 56 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,911 Posts
If the now-contaminated-oil has not circulated through it, then theoretically it should be OK; that is, if the oil only circulated through it prior to it turning into a milkshake.

If it has circulated through it then I would consider it waterlogged and would replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
If the now-contaminated-oil has not circulated through it, then theoretically it should be OK; that is, if the oil only circulated through it prior to it turning into a milkshake.

If it has circulated through it then I would consider it waterlogged and would replace it.
While it was out of commission, I fired it up and let it idle for 10-20 minutes a few times, so I should probably assume the filter needs to be replaced. Now the question is, when I order a new filter, should I also order a new chain and sprocket? At this point, my goal is still just to find out exactly what's wrong with the bike so I can decide whether it's worth fixing, and of course I don't want to drop money on a chain and sprocket if I end up giving up on the whole project. There's also the question of how many more tools I'm going to have to buy. Hmm...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,039 Posts
I have oil, but I don't have a replacement oil filter. I should obviously replace the filter because the old oil's so contaminated, but do you think it's necessary for troubleshooting purposes?
Remove the center pipe from the oil filter. Place your thumb & middle finger on the two rubber grommets and rinse the old oil filter in a pint of 'gasp' g a s. Shake it out & allow to air dry for awhile.
Re-use FOR Initial TESTING / Flushing purposes only.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cabron

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
LOL @ me. I actually googled "gasp gas" and was about to tell you that nothing relevant came up when I realized that you were merely referring to the controversial nature of gas-as-solvent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
You're absolutely certain that placing something with gasoline residue in that area is not dangerous?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,039 Posts
The crankcases of KLR650's with MANUAL Off fuel taps that get left ON are frequently flooded with 1/4 to 5 gallons of fuel on these and other pages ALL Too Frequently! One 1/4 teaspoon is of zero concern. Let it dry over night, zero fuel residue.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
910 Posts
PeteK,
If we remove the cap & spring from the cam chain tensioner Before we even loosen the valve cover (Gen 1 center chain guide is in the top of the valve cover), we can even do a complete valve tappet inspection, cam bearing inspection & valve clearance re-shimming/adjustment without further disturbing the main body of the cam chain tensioner. ;)

Just elevate the RH end of either cam shaft to extract old shim & insert corrected shim size (numbers Down of course).
For the LH valves, the inner dowel pins need to be removed in-order to gently roll the cam shaft towards the spark plug to extract & replace a shim.
Paul thanks for the correction. I have a Gen2 and I thought they were the same.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
910 Posts
While it was out of commission, I fired it up and let it idle for 10-20 minutes a few times, so I should probably assume the filter needs to be replaced. Now the question is, when I order a new filter, should I also order a new chain and sprocket? At this point, my goal is still just to find out exactly what's wrong with the bike so I can decide whether it's worth fixing, and of course I don't want to drop money on a chain and sprocket if I end up giving up on the whole project. There's also the question of how many more tools I'm going to have to buy. Hmm...
Any excuse to buy tools is a good excuse!
 

·
Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
910 Posts
As for the contaminated oil in the filter, I would not bother to rinse it. Just let it drain out overnight. That’s good enough for your testing. Remember, you already circulated that contaminated oil through the engine multiple times by idling it, so a tiny bit left on the filter isn’t gonna hurt anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Any excuse to buy tools is a good excuse!
Yes, I have to admit I've been thinking along those lines. And in my case, I think it's not just a rationalization. I really need to become more self-reliant so I can avoid these rat mechanics as much as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Well, I already rinsed the old filter in gas and am going to let it dry overnight. I'll reinstall it and put the new oil in tomorrow. What should my next step be after that?
 

·
Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
910 Posts
You could start it and and run it for awhile to see if you get the milkiness back in the oil. Knowing you had water in the oil already, I would want to check the valve clearances and cam bearing caps before I did that. You probably didn’t do any damage, but I’d check anyway to be sure before running it and to make sure the hard starting isn’t related to the valve adjustment.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,039 Posts
Paul thanks for the correction. I have a Gen2 and I thought they were the same.
PeteK,
If you remove the cam chain tensioner cap & spring on your Gen 2 before you remove the steel chain guide you can also inspect & adjust the valve train in the same manner. No real need to disturb the main body of the tensioner for general maintenance.

Well, I already rinsed the old filter in gas and am going to let it dry overnight. I'll reinstall it and put the new oil in tomorrow. What should my next step be after that?
Cabron,
Have you inspected the coolant level in the radiator? If it was low I'll ask if there was any actual liquid anti-freeze that drained out of the oil sump just before any actual oil slathered the drain plug & your hand?

If there was any actual liquid anti-freeze in the bottom of the oil and I was performing the work, I would drain the coolant from the engine.
Then I would disconnect the radiator overflow hose at the radiator cap and used compressed air to pressure the system up to about 15 psi and see if it looses pressure and if so, how quickly?
If it looses pressure quickly, I'd un-screw the large plastic plug on the LH engine cover and listen for air. Screw it back in and unscrew the oil fill cap and listen for air.
If I could NOT hear any air escaping, then I'd add 2.5 qts of engine oil & re-fill the cooling system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
You could start it and and run it for awhile to see if you get the milkiness back in the oil. Knowing you had water in the oil already, I would want to check the valve clearances and cam bearing caps before I did that. You probably didn’t do any damage, but I’d check anyway to be sure before running it and to make sure the hard starting isn’t related to the valve adjustment.
Well, crap. I just replaced the oil and filter and let the bike idle for about five minutes because I forgot this bit of advice. Should I even bother with checking the valve clearances and cam bearing caps now?

It sounded fine when I let it idle, if that matters at all.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,039 Posts
Personally, from my long-distance eye sight, I doubt that there is or ever was any coolant leaking into your engine oil. And I think that your camshafts, crankshaft & all the engine bearings will probably yet live a very long life.
Only time will tell for sure.

If your bike has over 10,000 miles on the odometer & the valve clearances have never been checked & re-adjusted to the upper end of specifications it Needs to be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
PeteK,
If you remove the cam chain tensioner cap & spring on your Gen 2 before you remove the steel chain guide you can also inspect & adjust the valve train in the same manner. No real need to disturb the main body of the tensioner for general maintenance.


Cabron,
Have you inspected the coolant level in the radiator? If it was low I'll ask if there was any actual liquid anti-freeze that drained out of the oil sump just before any actual oil slathered the drain plug & your hand?

If there was any actual liquid anti-freeze in the bottom of the oil and I was performing the work, I would drain the coolant from the engine.
Then I would disconnect the radiator overflow hose at the radiator cap and used compressed air to pressure the system up to about 15 psi and see if it looses pressure and if so, how quickly?
If it looses pressure quickly, I'd un-screw the large plastic plug on the LH engine cover and listen for air. Screw it back in and unscrew the oil fill cap and listen for air.
If I could NOT hear any air escaping, then I'd add 2.5 qts of engine oil & re-fill the cooling system.
The coolant is right at the "low" line. I think I last replaced it six years ago. Would you expect to lose a certain amount over that time through processes other than leakage?

So, I take it you're saying that antifreeze is heavier than oil, so if there was any in the oil, you'd expect to see that drain out first? I didn't specifically check, but I'm almost positive that it was the same disgusting-chocolate-milk mess from the first drop.

How do I conclusively determine whether there's a coolant leak? Or, based on what you see, do you think it's even worth checking? If you were in my position, would you bet that that there's no coolant leak and go ahead and replace the chain and sprocket on the assumption that there are no other major problems?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,039 Posts
The coolant is right at the "low" line. I think I last replaced it six years ago. Would you expect to lose a certain amount over that time through processes other than leakage?
You should look at the coolant level in the radiator itself, Not just the recovery tank. Yes the recovery tank can loose volume of coolant thru Normal usage.

So, I take it you're saying that antifreeze is heavier than oil, so if there was any in the oil, you'd expect to see that drain out first? I didn't specifically check, but I'm almost positive that it was the same disgusting-chocolate-milk mess from the first drop.
Correct

How do I conclusively determine whether there's a coolant leak? Or, based on what you see, do you think it's even worth checking? If you were in my position, would you bet that that there's no coolant leak and go ahead and replace the chain and sprocket on the assumption that there are no other major problems?
I feel I fairly well described how to check for internal coolant leakage in post # 33.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
910 Posts
I’m sensitive to checking valves because I cracked one last year, which pushed me into a 692 upgrade (which is not all bad😄). Since you don’t know the history of the bike, I strongly encourage you to check the valve clearances soon. And it’s easy to inspect the cam caps while you’re in there. The longest part of the job is getting all the body parts and gas tank off and back on.

Optional: check the compression while you’re in there because you can disable the KACR while you have the cam cover off. if you do that, you need the right size adapter for the spark plug hole, so make sure you have that too.

If those are good, then I’d buy the new sprockets and chain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I feel I fairly well described how to check for internal coolant leakage in post # 33.
Right, but I didn't know if doing only what you mentioned would conclusively answer the question. Just making sure I have all bases covered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
So to summarize what I need to do: check cooling system pressure, check valve clearance, check cam caps, check engine pressure. If all of that checks out, proceed to replacing the chain and sprocket.

I'm going to go through the Clymer and make a list of all the tools it looks like I'll need to do all of this. Mind if I post the list here so you guys can try to catch anything I've missed? I really don't want to tear the bike down to this degree and realize I'm missing something.
 
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
Top