[PeteK]

Yes. Post here. I mentioned above that you will need the correct size adapter for the spark plug hole. My general purpose compression tester kit did not have that size, so I had to buy another. Use a KLR spark plug to compare to the adaptors. You also will need a 1/4” drive torque wrench to correctly tighten (not over tighten) the screws on the cover and cam bearing caps.

 

[Cabron]

Yeah, the Clymer says you need a 12 mm adapter, and that this size is not commonly included in compression tester kits. This one includes a 12 mm adapter, but it's quite expensive. Worth it, I wonder?

 

[Cabron]

All right, I think I've got a good grasp of what I'll need for the cooling system check, the valve clearance check, and the engine pressure check. The only thing I'm unclear on is exactly what I'll be checking when it comes to the camshaft caps. The only mention of them I've seen in the manual so far has to do with removing them as part of doing another job. Forgive me if I'm being dense, but do you mind pointing me to the exact place in the manual that talks about what I'll be doing?

 

[PeteK]

Re cam caps: just take them off, one at a time, and visually inspect. They should be smooth with no ridges or bits of spalled metal. The surfaces of the cam itself should be smooth. If in doubt, post pictures.

Also, I bought a 12mm spark plug adaptor from my local NAPA store for $5. So if you can borrow or buy a cheaper compression tester, you can buy the correct adaptor inexpensively too.

 

[Cabron]

All right, here's my list:

Flat-head screwdriver with very large head
Flat feeler gauge
Shims (but only if the valves need to be adjusted)
"Small-tipped tool" (pg. 69, section 5 in the Clymer manual)
Calipers to measure shims (again, if the valves need to be adjusted)
Cooling system pressure tester
1/4" drive torque wrench
Engine compression tester kit
12 mm adapter for that kit, if necessary
Any wrenches necessary to get various bolts off (there are places where the Clymer doesn't specify the size of wrench needed for certain bolts)

Does that cover it?

 

[KLR250VA]

Hi all, I hope I'm not intruding, but this crew seems just the right group, and I am in need of help with selling my '01 KLR250 that I posted about here:

'01 KLR250 in storage 15 years...what to do?

Got my first n only bike in '01, before marriage then a decade overseas ended my riding. Bought an '01 KLR250 with only 90 miles that'd been totaled after a drop, from a dealership. No idea why it was totaled, as only damage was the end of one handlebar n a 1in scratch on the flywheel. Nothing...

www.klrforum.com

If anyone has a min to check it out, pls do. One question left: How much should I ask? Thanks!
And best of luck to you, Cabron!

 

[pdwestman]

The only thing I'm unclear on is exactly what I'll be checking when it comes to the camshaft caps. The only mention of them I've seen in the manual so far has to do with removing them as part of doing another job. Forgive me if I'm being dense, but do you mind pointing me to the exact place in the manual that talks about what I'll be doing?

Check this thread posting, picture #'s 3 & 4 is what you hope NOT TO see!

Possible BLOWN Engine...Burned All My Oil After Only 300...

Just bought my first KLR 3 weeks ago as a commuter to my job in the mountains and was stoked! Until the other day while riding down a back road and there was a big ‘ol kerplunk and the engine died and won’t turn over at all...and wouldn’t ya know it, when I checked the oil, nothing showed, not...

www.klrforum.com

 

[Cabron]

Thanks for that, pdwestman.

So, do you guys think I'll be good to go once I've acquired everything I listed above? I'm itching to get this done.

 

[PeteK]

If I make that prediction, I’ll jinx you! So, I’ll just say that “if” you don’t find further problems with those checks, then you should have a full riding season ahead of you.

 

[Cabron]

I've been going through my tools to see what I already have so as to avoid buying duplicates, and I found this guy. (I've been slowly accumulating tools as I've needed to do various jobs since 2007, so it's easy to forget about some of them.) This is an engine compression tester, right? Does it look like it has all its parts? I have the instruction booklet somewhere, but I can't find it. None of the adapters are marked, so I don't know their sizes. Which part of the adapters do I measure to find out?

 

[C model]

I've been going through my tools to see what I already have so as to avoid buying duplicates, and I found this guy. (I've been slowly accumulating tools as I've needed to do various jobs since 2007, so it's easy to forget about some of them.) This is an engine compression tester, right? Does it look like it has all its parts? I have the instruction booklet somewhere, but I can't find it. None of the adapters are marked, so I don't know their sizes. Which part of the adapters do I measure to find out?
View attachment 29070

Compare the middle brass adapter with your spark plug, could be the winner, or mesure the width of threaded area with spark plug threaded area

 

[Cabron]

I just bought all my tools online and am waiting for them to arrive. Wish me luck!

 

[Cabron]

Oh, and: can anyone tell me exactly which attachment(s) I'll need for the torque wrench? I already have quite an assortment, but I've accumulated them as I've needed them rather than bought them as a set, so I have no idea whether I already have what I'll need.

 

[Cabron]

Bump. The Clymer doesn't tell me exactly which sizes I'll need for each bolt. Is it assumed that you have a complete set of adapters so that giving this info isn't necessary?

 

[PeteK]

Do you mean which socket sizes? Get the sizes of the wrenches you have in the original tool kit: 8, 10, 12, 14mm. But it will be cheaper to buy a full set. 1/4” drive sets usually span from 6-14mm or so. 3/8” drive sets usually go from 9-19mm. Get a 1/4”-3/8” adaptor and a 3” and 6” extension (also frequently included in a ratchet/socket set).

Note: Japanese vehicles tend to use 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm heads, whereas German and American vehicles tend to use 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 17, 19mm heads. 11mm is used in brake line flare nuts, and 16 and 18 are oddballs (e.g., bicycle cranks and GM brake calipers). I don’t think there are any 13 or 15mm heads on the KLR, but because they are common on other bikes, I recommend you include the 13 and 15 sizes in your kit. Ya never know when you might want to help out a guy with a KTM or BMW!

 

[Cabron]

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Thanks a ton.