Kawasaki KLR Forum banner
101 - 120 of 150 Posts

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Keep it simple and don't remove the clutch cover yet and waste 2 gaskets and possible take a chance of rolling the coolant shaft OIL Seal inside-out during reassembly.
Simply thread the Oil Filter Cap 6:00 hole deep enough to have the orifice recessed up inside of it with blue Loc-Tite.
You can drill the orifice to #43 drill / 2.26mm or #44 drill / 2.18mm or #46 drill / 2.06mm. Larger than 2.26mm didn't seem to have much effect on my bike and I believe the Tom Schmitz is still running the 2.26mm orifice which I sent him, way back when. I'll suggest 98% effect for 10% of the effort.



In My Opinion, the 3 banjo bolt replacements or drill outs and the 6:00 oil port orifice could be beneficial to all KLR's of all years, 1984 - current. 250's / 600's / 650's.
I also highly encourage the installation of a Thermo-Bob on all KLR's, it helps get the engine oil up to full tempurature with a warmer cylinder head warming the additional oil flow thru the camshaft bearings and back down the chain tunnel.

The other oil flow mods I did are kind of just 'gravy'. ;)
Well I've already removed the clutch cover to clean the oil screen and I want to backwash the engine so I make sure all the remainder of cam aluminum is washed out, funny enough the clutch cover and waterpump gasket ripped but the LS covers came off like they had been replaced before with black gaskets
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
12,843 Posts
Well I've already removed the clutch cover
Well you can put the appropriate threads into it & test fit your chosen orifice, recessed below surface a thread or two.
Break-in the new piston & rings at least 3000 miles with-out any PDW orifice installed, for peace of mind.

You can decide later if you want to install any sized orifice smaller than 3mm. You can incrementally step down like I originally did, sending each oil change sample in for analysis.

This is what I like about my mods, they are easily reversible to basically Stock. Even the 100% filtration after drilling & epoxy filling of the old dirty hole, by simply leaving out the extra internal o-ring between filter & cap.
(Which some shops might accidentally do, unless fore warned.)
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
Little update, got the inside of the bolts drilled out and cleaned up the outside edges, I ordered the 1/16 npt tap and I'm looking for the brass inserts.
I figured I would go ahead and lap the oil relief valve for "better pressure" and no loss of oil, but I won't be changing the spring this time but maybe in the future. I need to get a brass T so I can verify if it leaks

Here's a pic so I don't post just words :LOL:

Machine Auto part Metal Font Nickel
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #104 · (Edited)
Not sure how everyone is testing the valve but this seems to work and adjusting the pressure on my little air comp to 60-65 it pops but it definitely leaks even at 30
Now to find a ball to use and a 1/16 hex plug thats not 20$ :ROFLMAO:
Textile Sleeve Webbing Beige Khaki
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: garrettL

· Registered
KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
3,101 Posts
Garrett, since you got a 1/16" pipe tap, you need a 1/16" pipe plug. I found one at Ace in their brass plumbing display. A local plumbing supply warehouse might have them, otherwise you're back to ordering online.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
12,843 Posts
Now to find a ball to use and a 1/16 hex plug thats not 20$
In "Oil Pressure, How much ya' got?" one may find that I acquired a proper sized steel ball at Ace Hardware & Brass 1/16th inch hex drive pipe plugs from Fastenal.
I used a rubber hose, cut at slight angle, in a drill motor to spin the steel ball in every direction (with very light pressure), rather than soldered to a pipe like Tom Schmitz did.
(Tom is using one that I lapped & re-sprung for him in his bike. 28psi.)


Jegs auto parts does have cheaper Aluminum 1/16th inch hex drive pipe plugs, but I was a little concerned about 'galling' of threads even with Loc-Tite blue, being aluminum to aluminum. Knowing that I would be removing & reinstalling various times/sizes.
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
In "Oil Pressure, How much ya' got?" one may find that I acquired a proper sized steel ball at Ace Hardware & Brass 1/16th inch hex drive pipe plugs from Fastenal.
I used a rubber hose, cut at slight angle, in a drill motor to spin the steel ball in every direction (with very light pressure), rather than soldered to a pipe like Tom Schmitz did.
(Tom is using one that I lapped & re-sprung for him in his bike. 28psi.)


Jegs auto parts does have cheaper Aluminum 1/16th inch hex drive pipe plugs, but I was a little concerned about 'galling' of threads even with Loc-Tite blue, being aluminum to aluminum. Knowing that I would be removing & reinstalling various times/sizes.
Don't rule out Bicycle Shops for single Balls of MANY sizes for projects. When I was young, the shop I worked at had bulk loose Ball Bearings for use in Bicycle Hubs, Bottom Brackets & Head Sets to name a few.

Just a thought for additional options....

Willie
 
  • Like
Reactions: garrettL

· Premium Member
Joined
·
12,843 Posts
Don't rule out Bicycle Shops for single Balls of MANY sizes for projects. When I was young, the shop I worked at had bulk loose Ball Bearings for use in Bicycle Hubs, Bottom Brackets & Head Sets to name a few.

Just a thought for additional options....

Willie
Not many bicycles use 14/32" / 7/16" steel balls anywheres that I'm aware of. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: garrettL

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
Not many bicycles use 14/32" / 7/16" steel balls anywheres that I'm aware of. ;)
I'll shut up and lay by my dish now.... did not know you needed that big of balls. ;)

Willie
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I stopped by Ace today and sure enough they had a chrome ball in 7/16", it's been a little cold after work and I don't wanna fire up the heater for 2 hours so should be more progress tomorrow. Also after reading through a bunch of threads I ordered a Ninja coolant tank and I'll be trying to fit that instead of making a heat shield for the "melted nipple syndrome"
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #112 ·
today I got started on lapping the relief valve and what a pain in the butt. I couldn’t find my fine compound for atleast an hour.

I tried Paul’s version of using fuel line but I don’t have any new line so it wasn’t grabbing the ball so I soldered it to a rod and just moved it back and forth.

wondering for anyone that’s done this, how leak free are you getting yours?
The first time lapping it could hold 40 solid and now 50 but I don’t know how much more it will hold
Hand tool Wrench Metalworking hand tool Tool Ratchet
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Well I have a little update, kind of slow until parts arrive.
I deleted the safety switches (clutch/side stand) and cleaned up some of the wiring.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design Gas
Tire Automotive tire Motorcycle Hood Automotive lighting

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Automotive design


Finger Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Auto part

Light Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle handlebar Automotive exterior

This tool is actually made for cutting threads on clothing but it works great at splitting looms

Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Tire


Also mocked up a ninja coolant tank and I gotta say its not really worth doing, I like the black cover for mud/water etc and probably blocks some wind on the highway. I'd have to weld up two brackets for the tank as well. I'll just install a plate for the nipple
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #114 ·
So I've been wanting to pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for awhile now and I'm glad I did. I may pick up a bigger one but it would be much more expensive.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas Vehicle
Gesture Rectangle Font Automotive lighting Material property


Also got all the parts from Eagle and Rocky mtn, finished putting the clutch cover on and hopefully tomorrow I'll get the head and balancer side on, Finally got to use my tiny 40-200 inch lb torque wrench

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Automotive exterior
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
The cylinder is "Dishwasher Safe" if its okay with your wife.
CAREFUL!!!!

You use the Dishwasher and you COULD wind-up with a RUSTED mess!

I Prefer a "Utility Tub" (VERY CLEAN), Simple Green, Clean Brush(s) & Cloths (as needed) and HOT Water flowing from the Tap, after scrubbing for a full rinse. Use WD-40 and a CLEAN/LINT FREE Cloth (WHITE to show dirt) to wipe the Cylinder Down AFTER you use Compressed Air to blow the, still hot Cylinder dry. If you find the CLEAN WHITE CLOTH with WD-40 showing ANY dirt when wiping your Cylinder Bore, REPEAT the cleaning process until the cloth comes up CLEAN!!!

1.) Scrub with HOT water & Simple Green (or the like)

2.) Scrub/Rinse WELL with HOT/CLEAN/FLOWING Water

3.) Right away, using Compressed Air, quickly Blow the Cylinder dry

4.) Right away, using a CLEAN/WHITE LINT FREE Cloth and WD-40 (wet), wipe down the Cylinder Bore

5.) Check the Rag for "Dirt". You are looking for anything that is NOT a VERY LIGHT rust color AT BEST! If you are pulling anything else out on the Cloth, return to Step #1!

6.) If all is well to this point, apply a light coat of your Engine Oil to the Cylinder Bore using a CLEAN/LINT FREE Cloth and wrap the Cylinder Assembly until needed.

NOTE.... you MAY/WILL see a slight rusty tint to your cloth when wiping it with the WD-40. This is "Normal" when doing this. If you have cleaned the Cylinder Bore properly and the Cylinder has been heated by the HOT water, the compressed air will dry the metal rapidly leaving a very light film of rust. You are removing that with the WD-40 and Cloth.

My $0.02 worth, for what little it's worth. ;)

Willie
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Thanks guys, I just used the utility sink and dish soap but had to instantly use wd40 because of flash rusting, luckily it all cleaned up really nice, bunch of pics of the install not much to explain but I like seeing pictures.
Mike had to replace exhaust valves as they were too thin after grinding, other than that everything went smooth
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Tire
Fuel tank Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive fuel system


Automotive design Automotive tire Gas Wood Hood

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Vehicle


I forgot to order a rotor holder tool so I made one from an old HF wrench
Gear Engineering Gas Metalworking Machine

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Rim Audio equipment Automotive design
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Nut


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Rim Gas
 

Attachments

101 - 120 of 150 Posts
Top