Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Well I've already removed the clutch cover to clean the oil screen and I want to backwash the engine so I make sure all the remainder of cam aluminum is washed out, funny enough the clutch cover and waterpump gasket ripped but the LS covers came off like they had been replaced before with black gasketsKeep it simple and don't remove the clutch cover yet and waste 2 gaskets and possible take a chance of rolling the coolant shaft OIL Seal inside-out during reassembly.
Simply thread the Oil Filter Cap 6:00 hole deep enough to have the orifice recessed up inside of it with blue Loc-Tite.
You can drill the orifice to #43 drill / 2.26mm or #44 drill / 2.18mm or #46 drill / 2.06mm. Larger than 2.26mm didn't seem to have much effect on my bike and I believe the Tom Schmitz is still running the 2.26mm orifice which I sent him, way back when. I'll suggest 98% effect for 10% of the effort.
In My Opinion, the 3 banjo bolt replacements or drill outs and the 6:00 oil port orifice could be beneficial to all KLR's of all years, 1984 - current. 250's / 600's / 650's.
I also highly encourage the installation of a Thermo-Bob on all KLR's, it helps get the engine oil up to full tempurature with a warmer cylinder head warming the additional oil flow thru the camshaft bearings and back down the chain tunnel.
The other oil flow mods I did are kind of just 'gravy'.