Kawasaki KLR Forum banner
121 - 140 of 150 Posts

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
  • Haha
Reactions: Br549rick

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
Thanks everyone!
I would suggest getting some of these to help clean any carb you come across, they are super cheap too
View attachment 40593
Also I ordered the brass fuel elbow thinking that it would pop right in and I was definitely wrong, different size ☹
View attachment 40594
I have 2 sets of them in my tool box. One (1) new and one (1) old. Always start with the old and only break out the new for "special occasions"! ;) (y)

They make them in different bristle types (Nylon, Brass....) BE CAREFUL depending on what you are doing!!!!

Willie
 
  • Like
Reactions: garrettL

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Finished the carb install!!
just for future readers I have FMF Q4 exhaust, de-snorkled, for the KLX kit I did the third "step" and one washer under the main needle, I used a 42 pilot and 142 main
We will see how it runs, I'm hoping it will idle well enough for me to start and let the bike get up to operating temp for the first time.

Automotive tire Balloon Toy Gas Motor vehicle


T-MOD
Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Bumper Electrical wiring


Of course, the install couldn't go smoothly. I wanted to replace one exhaust stud as the threads were pretty bad. It ended up snapping off, tried to weld it and didn't budge. I had to drill it out and then run a tap through to clean the threads. Luckily all is well and I'll get bolts tomorrow.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Rim Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Tire
 

· Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Great work!! You'll be enjoying the ride soon!
Did you buy your manual chock on Chinese website ? If so, you may have some hard time starting the engine and idling. I've put the same part on mine and the length of the rod make it no pull enough and not close properly either. I hope it will work for you tho.
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #128 · (Edited)
Great work!! You'll be enjoying the ride soon!
Did you buy your manual chock on Chinese website ? If so, you may have some hard time starting the engine and idling. I've put the same part on mine and the length of the rod make it no pull enough and not close properly either. I hope it will work for you tho.
I bought it used from someone who used it already, I’m sure it’s an eBay special but I swapped the front needle and spring to maybe have a better time, worst case I’ll put the stock one one

Got the exhaust stud fixed and I also fabbed up the coolant nipple shield (going to replace screws with rivets) and a longer/thicker air box shield, under normal circumstances it won't be a problem but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exhaust Automotive exterior

Rectangle Sleeve Grey Wood Bag



I also ordered another waterpump impeller, mine had a chunk missing out of the fins and my OCD won't let it go. Probably best for coolant as well, I don't really know :rolleyes:
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Also have a controversial question for anyone that's replaced rings and new/refreshed cylinder, in the instructions Mike sends he says to let it idle until its up to temp and turn off, then go for two 20 min rides(4000rpm) then (4500 rpm). Wouldn't it make more sense to let it warm up for a few minutes and immediately go ride?

I've read a ton of threads on this but as I'm planning on keeping this bike for a loong time, so any advice would be appreciated.
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
Also have a controversial question for anyone that's replaced rings and new/refreshed cylinder, in the instructions Mike sends he says to let it idle until its up to temp and turn off, then go for two 20 min rides(4000rpm) then (4500 rpm). Wouldn't it make more sense to let it warm up for a few minutes and immediately go ride?

I've read a ton of threads on this but as I'm planning on keeping this bike for a loong time, so any advice would be appreciated.
Think HEATING & COOLING CYCLES! I'm NO Engineer, NOR do I play one on TV! These cycles are IMPORTANT when Mr. Piston is getting to know Ms. Cylinder.... for a happy, long term relationship!

If you are using his Product(s), FOLLOW HIS DIRECTIONS!!!

FOR ME (Basic Break-in):


My "PLAN" for BREAK-IN on my Engines (if I can maintain my control - I like my throttle - kid going on 60yrs old) is to go through "Heating & Cooling Cycles by starting and running the Fresh Engine/Cylinder/Bore, bringing it to operation temp, and shutting it down. I let it COOL TOTALLY BEFORE I START THE PROCESS all over again with a LONGER DURATION THE NEXT TIME. Depending on the Engine and build type, time between can start as short as warm up (Operating Temp) & shut down for the "first fire/run (this is when I'm checking stuff carefully), short ride next, LITTLE longer ride next.... it's a long process IF you do it right.

Each time I do this I'm checking Oil, Coolant, Fasteners and other things like.... Spark Plug Color for any sign of a problem(s).

I'm ALSO increasing the DURATION & LOAD of each "session". I AM SURE to include BOTH ACCELERATION & DECELERATION allowing the ENGINE to do some ENGINE BRAKING when doing this. Never doing either of these actions, HEAVY or long until LATER in the process!

Do NOT use Synthetic Oil for Break-in!

Follow the direction of EM, Piston Mfg. or your own on the first Oil Change. You should have been watching the LEVEL & CONDITION to this point.

That's my $0.02 worth, for what that's worth!

Willie

PS

I've not seen the Instructions you have from Eagle Mike. I will say, after re-reading your post a few times, knowing what I've heard of EM, it sounds like he's doing similar, but not worried as much about the whole Piston/Cylinder commingling as the seating of the Rings.

As I said above, FOLLOW the EM Directions!!! His Products, his Machine Work! ;)
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
I followed Mike’s directions, worked fine for me.
I purchased one of his 685 Piston & Cylinder Kits (he had a sale a little while ago) to "Place on the Shelf"! I DON'T EVEN KNOW if I can get it to work on my Gen 3.

What I have LEARNED on this Forum IS, Eagle Mike KNOWS HIS $HIT!

I'll put it on my Gen 3 IF I CAN! I'll buy a SECOND KLR TO FIT my Eagle Mike's 685 Kit, if it doesn't fit/work on my Gen 3.

Willie
 

· Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
I purchased one of his 685 Piston & Cylinder Kits (he had a sale a little while ago) to "Place on the Shelf"! I DON'T EVEN KNOW if I can get it to work on my Gen 3.

What I have LEARNED on this Forum IS, Eagle Mike KNOWS HIS $HIT!

I'll put it on my Gen 3 IF I CAN! I'll buy a SECOND KLR TO FIT my Eagle Mike's 685 Kit, if it doesn't fit/work on my Gen 3.

Willie
It will work
Other than your throttle body it’s the same.
Oh no here come the my 22/23 is brand new, Kawasaki marketing said so.
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Thanks a lot guys, got the bike all buttoned up for now. I need to replace the impellar once it comes in the mail. Once I've started and ran the bike up to temp and turned off(per mikes instructions) I will put plastics back on.

Unfortunately weather wont be nice until next week when it will be in the 50s

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting
 

· Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Also have a controversial question for anyone that's replaced rings and new/refreshed cylinder, in the instructions Mike sends he says to let it idle until its up to temp and turn off, then go for two 20 min rides(4000rpm) then (4500 rpm). Wouldn't it make more sense to let it warm up for a few minutes and immediately go ride?

I've read a ton of threads on this but as I'm planning on keeping this bike for a loong time, so any advice would be appreciated.
That's SOP for initial startup on forged piston. The forged material has surface stress from manufacturing process. This stress needs to be released by heat cycle.
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #136 ·
That's SOP for initial startup on forged piston. The forged material has surface stress from manufacturing process. This stress needs to be released by heat cycle.
yep, sometimes the simplest answer is to listen to the guy that had the product designed over years of trial and error :LOL:
I don't know why I questioned it! I do need to call him though because it says after the break in I should change the oil but in another paragraph it says I can do it at regular interval. Not worried about contamination in oil as the only thing new was the piston/rings not like a brand new motor
 

· Registered
2002 KLR650
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Got the impeller swapped out, not sure if it was necessary but peace of mind, bike is ready to start and do break in but I'm going to wait for better weather. We are supposed to get rain and snow tonight (24*) also ordered some IMS super sport pegs and new front brake pads.

I really liked modifying and rebuilding this bike. It will be fun to actually ride it but there is enjoyment in the build
Wood Grey Silver Pattern Button
 

· Registered
2022 KLR650
Joined
·
761 Posts
Got the impeller swapped out, not sure if it was necessary but peace of mind, bike is ready to start and do break in but I'm going to wait for better weather. We are supposed to get rain and snow tonight (24*) also ordered some IMS super sport pegs and new front brake pads.

I really liked modifying and rebuilding this bike. It will be fun to actually ride it but there is enjoyment in the build
View attachment 40765
You're making me want to get one just like it and start my own project! It has been fun following your progress!

Wishing you all the best in your quest!

Willie
 
  • Like
Reactions: garrettL
121 - 140 of 150 Posts
Top