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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So Far Completed: (from front to back, sort of in that order )
a) KLR Fender off, lowered the fender and added an Acerbis fender
b) Eagle Mike Fork Brace
c) Quad LED driving lights mounted to the bottom of the fork bracket (custom)
d) Zero Gravity Tall tinted windscreen
e) Cyclops LED Low & High Beam bulbs
f) Hot Hands velcro removable grip heaters
g) Tusk crash Bars (main subframe bolts changed)
h) Smaller subframe bolts changed
I) Ricochet skid plate
j) Thermo Bob
k) 22 cent washer mod, but different. I added 2 x #4 washers, drilled out a slightly larger hole than 7/64 and opened the throttle screw 2 full turns
l) Motorcross wide footpegs
m) Custom dash plate added to handle bar cross bar and added the light switches, grip heater controls and 2 x 12v outlets... I have USB changer inserts for the 12v outlets
n) Front fork spring change to Racetech. ( Progressives got beat up a bit for being mushy for the 1st couple of inches on the Rocky Mountain forum) I am very happy with Racetech.
o) Rear shock changed out for a new Progressive 465 series shock, but I was unhappy with the spring so I installed the Yellow Top gun 8kg/mm spring into the new Progressive shock. The Top gun spring is slightly stiffer and 1.25 inches taller for more travel. Very happy with the suspension set up. very happy.
p) Tee mod. Have gone through a few rivers crossing now and report no bogging down at all and no stoppages of any kind. ( Y (tee) added, and the addition hose was routed under the seat. Now two direction breather tubes.
q) Seat Concepts commuter seat. I told Seat Concepts I weighed 300 pounds to get the custom foam mix that makes a hard seat and hopefully long lasting. I've ridden over 12 hours now in one day and happy happy with the seat.
r) Lexx Exhaust can and mid pipe. Happy with this. The Lexx system allows for more aggressive carb set-up as explained in "k" .
s) I bought the bike used, came with Happy Trails panniers racks, and ammo cans. I will most likely get the large Pelican top opening panniers since they are more than 10 pounds lighter per box and they get good reviews.
t) Handlebar vibration dampener weights
u) Acerbis "Barkbuster" hand guards
v) New 14 tooth front gear, new DID 520 VX Gold Chain, New 43T rear sprocket
W) Tires: Front TKC 80, Rear Heidenau K60 Scout

Regarding rear light: I'm not sold on the LED light. Will change out the 1157 each spring to keep it fresh and bright

Regarding the check valve from the gear box to the air box... My air box stays clean, so I don't see the need.

Regarding Top Boxes.. I'm not a Pizza Box kinda guy. I like creating a "deck" across the back and then tie down duffels ect ...

There must be something else I missed ?
 

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You must really like to work on it!

GPS Mount
Phone Mount
Heated Gear Thermostat
Camera Mount
Stereo
Seat heater
Musical Horn
Trailer Hitch
LED Lighting
Chrome everything
Handlebar Muffs
Highway Pegs
Ham Radio
Remote start
Nitrogen in tires
Valve stem LED's
Chrome caps on valve stems
Colored spoke covers
Bluetooth communication in helmet
Wireless led brake and turn in helmet
Garage door remote
Throttle lock cruise control

Emmmmm

Somebody help! I'm running out now....When you're done with all that,, ask again. I'm creative.
 

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Just wonderin' . . . p) Tee mod, on a GENERATION 2?

Mandatory, essential, on a Generation 1 entering water beyond 10" depth, but . . . on a Generation 2? OEM vent looks about 30" above riding surface level; water that high would approach carburetor air intake height, rendering the Tee mod moot, seems to me.

Or, I'm missing obvious configuration facts (not for the FIRST time! :))

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Oh, yes--as to added accessories, Cyclerack racks, with Cyclerack fabric panniers and top case . . . maybe Cyclerack fabric tank panniers, also . . . then, certainly, Happy Trails nerf bags . . . your do have Hippo Hands, right? And a lithium booster battery in your tank bag? Don't forget the Kawasaki handlebar bag; a MUST!

Shark fin rear brake disk protector?

No handlebar risers (e.g., Rox adjustable risers)?

Did we get into big bore kits? Woessner high-compression pistons?

Oversize front brake disk; steel-wrapped brake lines, front and rear?

Did we neglect the aftermarket doohickey, with torsion spring?

Custom hitch-pins, replacing axle cotter pins, certainly (available from TPI).

Might want relay wiring harness to headlights (q.v., TPI).

What kind of auxiliary 12 VDC receptacle? USB charging/power port? Certainly, a battery tender plug and pigtail.

Wireless remote-sensing (through GPS receiver) tire pressure valve stem caps (or, skull motif valve stem caps).

Although rear suspension has some work (Cogent Moab shock would be an upgrade), front end could use some attention: Drop-in valving ("intimators" (?)), like the Cogent product?

Cogent front spring pre-load adjusters.

(Regrets if I've re-listed items from the original postings.)

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Second-guessing another mod . . . while our Harley brethren hog out the slide vacuum port to 1/8" on their CV40 Keihin carburetors, I've heard reports of slide flutter, if the Kawasaki Keihin CVK40 expansion goes beyond 7/64". Any such indication (how big was your slide hole overbore?).?

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You say, "Regarding the check valve from the gear box to the air box... My air box stays clean, so I don't see the need."

A clean air box was NOT the purpose of the PCV Valve Mod.

Rather, a check valve in the sump vent line is said (by some) to increase power, improve fuel mileage, reduce oil consumption, enhance ring seating, and offer even additional advantages. Not everyone accepts the premise of the claimed benefits. :)

Oh, oh, oh, OH! We cannot deny the INCREASED FREE POWER available from the MC Mod! i.e., advancing the exhaust cam one sprocket tooth (15 crankshaft degrees). Belief in the efficacy of this mod is not unanimous on all bikes of all generations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mods, mods and more mods

You are right - I forgot to mention I already completed the doohickey with torsion spring and center stand and handle for the center stand..... And I forgot to mention to the Ballistic 8 cell dry-lith battery.
( I was amazed at how heavy the OEM can was... lots of weight saving going to the Lexx can and Ballistic battery.... until I sit on the bike again)

I looked at the oversize front brake and thought that worthy, but I ride with a vision down the road and generally downshift on the way to slowing down. I have other bikes so the KLR is not the "speed bike" .... :)
I don't disagree with your points about the PVC mods and in my post I shortened my opinion of the PVC mod, I understand the points, but I'm not sold yet. A fellow KLR buddy of mine bought the PVC valve, and he decided not to install it. I keep this on the back burner on simmer.
Regarding Tee mod .... I saw where Riders recommended it for the gen 2 as well. I looked at the location of the tube on my bike and it ended about 1" lower than the bottom shock bolt. So, I went to Advance Auto, found a "Y" tee and already I had some clear fuel line so this mod was probably the cheapest mod I did.
Engine. Yeah. Engine. Hmmmm. I spent a fortune on this bike already, but I was able to do everything on my own. so Far. I ran into a really nice KLR rider down near Devil's Fork where I did a KLR camping trip last month. He had his cylinder honed and new rings put in and the bike runs better and uses virtually no oil now. I think I would run that route, and while on that course, have the Mechanic do top end work as well - but first my piggy bank needs to fill back up.
 

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Truth be told, the PCV Valve Mod remains of questionable value in my estimation.

You don't comment on the MC Mod. While men of integrity have in good faith claimed improvement from its implementation, I remain skeptical. While advancing the exhaust cam may displace torque and horsepower curve peaks, I'd expect little change (if any) from net output. Further, sacrificing 15 crankshaft degrees of valve overlap runs counter-intuitively to high-end performance, to me. DISCLAIMER: Profound horsepower gains may indeed be yielded; haven't performed nor before-and-after tested the mod. Wonder, if effective, how the mod WORKS to increase power.

No shark-fin rear brake disk protector? No handlebar risers?

I think you'd find steel-wrapped brake lines (definitely the front one) useful in improving caliper responsiveness . . . no "squish" when you apply the brakes.

A larger front brake disk improves your ability to modulate braking more precisely; maybe stop somewhat shorter also. As to using engine compression braking, the larger disk's leverage advantage is available for PANIC stops, when there's no time to gear down.

All above said, you've performed an impressive "build" on your bike, as it now is. Congratulations!
 

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Everybody has a different list of ultimate mods depending on their wants, usage, experience and budget. .....but since you asked, if it was MY bike;

- swap the stock bars for a set of renthal aluminum units and ditch the bar end weights. the stock bars are far too wide, have too much pullback and have the strength of partially cooked pasta. I hate adding weight so the bar end weighs would get tossed; I have less vibration than stock with my renthals and barkbusters. Bar bend is an individual preference but I like the Renthal RC Hi. Renthal - MX / Enduro - 7/8"

- Install an Idabiker LED; doesn't burn out, much brighter than stock and saves some watts KLR650

- I'd be installing a set of cartridge emulators in the forks; Racetech gold valves or better yet the Cogent DDC's.....simple 15 minute job that transforms the front end. The shock is fine; better than stock but a Moab would be on the wish list. www.motocd.com

- ditch the 22 cent mod for a KLX kit which works much better. Pull the snorkle at a minimum and consider the L mod. KLX jet kit

- 320mm EBC front rotor and SS lines Eagle Mfg & Eng

- The stock pegs are too high and with wider pegs, too far forward. I like the Knight Designs drop pegs but if I already had decent pegs, I'd install the JNS drop peg brackets. 1987-2016 KLR650 Foot Peg Lowering Brackets

- I agree on ditching the ammo cans, though for ME, I'd be looking at soft luggage - probably Wolfman drybags.

....and finally, I'd strongly suggest avoiding the "honing and re-ringing", If.....well, OK, when the bike starts to burn oil excessively, the EM 685 is the solution. Honing the stock cylinder doesn't help the typical "out of round/Irregular taper" issues these early Gen2's have and the ring design is crap. If your going to do it, do it right.


YMMV (and probably will!) :)

Dave
 

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