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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done the output shaft seal on a 84 kl600? I think I might have screwed up on trying to get the output shaft seal out. It looks like it's installed from inside the case. Please say it ain't so. Please tell me my mind is playing tricks on me and it comes out from the outside. If it from the inside, my bike is down for awhile. Somebody that's done it, please some good news.
thanks, Tim
 

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Arrrghh.

I'm answering because no one who might be more knowledgeable on this has.

First off, I have never laid eyes on an A1 case where the sprocket was off so I don't have first-hand knowledge.

That said, I have never seen a seal, which is a wear item, that was mounted such that it couldn't be serviced without the job being horrible and depressing. Certainly, every KLR I have seen was serviceable in this area.

The KLR600 A1 case was unique to that year (Kawasaki seemed to do a lot of stumbling and aimless wandering with both the KLR600s and the early KLR650s in the case department) and they have done, and still do, a lot of weird and stupid shit.

All in all, I'd have to say that I doubt the countershaft seal can only be replaced by splitting cases, but a picture would help everyone who might have some input.

My offer of hostin' and postin' pictures for you stands as per my PM.
 

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Go to a parts screen. https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/137791/1984/KL600-A1

Dang those dirty devils!! The parts screen does show the seal installed from the Inside! The OEM service manual line drawing does show the retainer lip on the outside of the case!!

Part # 92049-1159 is superseded to 92049-1577 and used on KLR650 from the Outside. Kawasaki was apparently afraid that oil pressure might blow the seal out of the case, therefore they trapped it. But all is not lost yet. You may be able to perform an external replacement yet. The KLR650 does not have that lip & it stays in.

DO NOT DAMAGE THE OIL SHIELD/SEAL IN THE TRANSMISSION BEARING, or you will be repairing the long/hard way!

One will need to Carefully grind off that exterior lip. THEN CLEAN THE AREA. Then remove the exterior seal, collar & o-ring. Carefully examine that you didn't damage the oil shield/seal on the bearing, (crossing my fingers). Clean the shaft, oil & replace the o-ring, oil the bore & seal & install the new seal til FLUSH with exterior case. Oil & Insert the collar (4 scallops towards the bearing).

Now if you desire insurance of seal retention, degrease & dry the area and apply some Permatex Cold Weld or JB Weld Quick Set Epoxy over machined lip of case & edge of the new seal.

Does this sound doable for your experience level?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pdwestman,
Your idea is doable and I'm comfortable doing it. I think. I am a machinist, but what tool? Would you use a die grinder?

Tom,
I sent you some pics. Hope they went through. Computers are not my strong point.
Thanks to both of you guys,
Tim
 

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Unfortunately, I haven't received any pictures. If you give me your e-mail address I can send you an e-mail you can reply to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can't believe that kawasaki engineers would design a wear part like that. Morons. Man, if I had it apart, it would be an easy fix. I run a big vertical lathe at work. Anyways, im thinking of the best way to do it in the bike. Tool? Any thoughts?
 

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Right click and "Open in New Tab" to see full-size images.







 

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KLR650 for comparison.




 

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I can't believe that kawasaki engineers would design a wear part like that. Morons. Man, if I had it apart, it would be an easy fix. I run a big vertical lathe at work. Anyways, im thinking of the best way to do it in the bike. Tool? Any thoughts?
Die Grinder or Dremel Tool. Pretend that you are a dentist for while and be careful. If the old seal has a gap around the collar just put some grease around it.

Just to be clear, the pics which Tom just provided are of a KLR650 which the oil seal was installed TOO Deeply.
I don't think that Tom was encouraging you to attempt to grind out your case seal pocket to look like that.

I'll say again, just make it flush.
 

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Yes, in the other thread I provided him with your post on flush installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Pdwestman,
Just to be clear.
The first 4 pics are from my bike, kl600. The next 2 pics are from the 650. Tom posted all of them as I'm having a problem posting pics. Are u saying the second set of pics(2 of the 650), the seal is too deep?
Tim
 

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Correct, TOO deep.

On the 650 case the seal needs to be Flush/Level with the Exterior surface of the case. Once you grind off the Stupid retainer lip on your 600 case, its seal will be Flush/Level with the case. Correct?

Do NOT insert seal below level!

Engine oil must be allowed to enter the 4 scallops of the spacer collar to enter the hole in the transmission shaft to feed the 3 free-spinning gears & the kickstart gear. The o-ring in the groove of the transmission shaft seals the interior of the collar to prevent oil leaking out between the collar & the shaft.
 

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I would lay the bike down on its RH side to see better & have more control of the tool. Remember to grease the damaged seal area to keep the chips out. And remember to wear your safety goggles when grinding off the lip & blowing away the debris. You'll do fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update,
I just ground off the lip and installed a new seal. I put a little sealant around the outside. I'm going to let it cure overnight and finish up tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I'll email Tom and see if he can post some pics.
 

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I’m on a 10 day ride through New Mexico and Arizona and only have a phone, so can’t do the usual embedding via Flickr.

Photos are attached.

Looks like a nice job done.

BTW, I got two emails with the same photos in both emails.
 

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To the untrained eye or one not familiar with KLR600's or no service manual in hand, one would not know that that is not 100% factory!

Great Job!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks everyone for there ideas.
I gave it a lot of thought about different ways of doing it. Of course the best way would be to disassemble and machine. I would have liked to do that, but I was worried about finding parts. As everyone knows, you never know what your going to find when you break into and engine. Anyways, I used a dremel and took my time.
I put everything back together this morning and went for a quick ride. So far, so good. I hope I didn't just jinx it. I'm going to take it for a longer ride tomorrow morning after I fire up my smoker for a 12 lb brisket. Again, thanks everyone for there help.
Tom, Thanks for posting pictures for me and all your help. This forum is awesome.
Tim
 
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