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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys/Gals,







INTRO:

Long time listener, first time caller. I hope I´m received well enough in the forum. It´s always been a passion of mine to tinker with old carbureted motorcycles but I´ve never really known what I was doing or had a workspace to do anything properly (used to try my old apartment living room when I was younger which never went over so well with roommates or why did I ever try using carb cleaner with a window cracked open.. desperate times. : ) ). By the way, I´m still young. My name is Casey and I´m 29. Grew up most of my life in the Pacific Northwest. Nice to meet you guys. Basically, up til now I´ve only cleaned/synched carbs, replaced chains/sprockets and done valve adjustments so now I´m in need of help on a full restoration!

I now have my own garage and after checking PNW craigslist for months, I managed to trap myself into a 1987 KLR 250 (photos hopefully correctly linked above..after 14 more posts..). Currently I own a 2006 SV 650 and a 2005 KLR 650, but Im a sucker for the small displacement bikes (in 2015 I rode my old XT225 from Seattle to Panama) and I really wanted something that looked in bad enough shape that it would motivate me to finally do a full tear down. I managed to start the bike up and ride it home with it dying a few times. The bike still has carburetor issues which I will have to address later in the thread if possible (constant leak from float bowl overflow tube which can only be stopped by a screw plugging the end of the tube. I´ve replaced the float bowl drain plug, needle, and set the float height all to no avail.) Sorry for the boring intro but I just wanted to give some backstory.

TLDR; SKIP INTRO AND JUMP HERE: OK OK, This brings me to today and why I currently need help! I´ve started a full restoration of the baby killer and the 30+ years of rust combined with my lack of real experience is leading to some confusion in the garage. I am extremely nervous to force anything too hard in fear of stripping/breaking anything and right now I´m exhausted trying to remove my rear shock. Please see the photos that will hopefully be inserted correctly into this thread below (after I apparently make 14 more posts).... I´ve already removed the subframe, airbox, top shock bolt, and c clips/washers on the rear linkages. I´ve spent several days now periodically spraying the rear linkages with PB blaster and then prying on the rear linkage seals with a vise grip. Is there a special tool that could get into the seals groove and pry it out? Has anyone encountered this? Am I even prying on the right part?? All help is greatly appreciated! Even just a hello so I can start racking up my posts to be able to submit photos ; )


Rear linkage seals that I cannot figure out how to remove:





After removing c clips/washers and several days of periodic pb blasting:






Misc:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Did you see my photos though? The rear shock is not coming out easy. I managed to remove the top bolt but the rear links have what I believe are 4 metal ´seals´ (from bike bandit diagram) and Ive had a pretty solid grip on them with the vise grips and have been rocking the bike up and down from ripping on the seals.. and nothing will budge at all.

Im not entirely sure I know what you mean by is the long bolt removed? I had to fight the long swingarm pivot bolt for several days to finally get it out yesterday...

**EDIT: just compared the diagram to my bike in the garage, yes the long bolt labeled 33032 ´shaft-swing arm´ is what I was referring to and it has been removed after quite a fight.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Beautiful, thanks for the quick responses!!! I really appreciate the support! Great link too. Sorry for being slow here but it´s kind of hard for me to tell from all the rust.. is 42036A/B the part that I have been prying on and it´s actually a sleeve that passes all the way through? Also are we saying it´s all rusted together and I need to just air hammer to attempt to free the mating surfaces of all the components of rust before taking it apart?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To make my specific question more concise and cut out a lot of my bullshit:

In the photo below, should I be prying on what I´m referring to as the rear shock side link ´seals´ as shown with my vise grips or are these sleeves that pass through completely and I need to be hammering them out from one side to the other? I already removed the c clips and washers...theres just so much rust.. or option C is I dont know what Im talking about.



Sorry for multiple posts, I just am dying to break this bike down/rebuild it and all the rust is driving me crazy!
 

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You need to drown those parts with penetrating oil of some flavor and let it set for a day. Then you need to attempt to wedge the 'dog bones' off of the long pins which you are trying to turn with pliers.
Those pins go all the way thru many parts. The suspension seals are behind those dog-bone links.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

I´ve got movement! Finally making progress! Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. After several hours today of spraying PB Blaster and wedging the dog bone links, I´ve managed to be able to relatively easily slide both links back and forth by about a half inch as shown in the pictures below:





I´m going to have to get back at it either tonight or tomorrow. But in the mean time, I was able to get the castle nut off today in order to remove my steering stem. One step closer to repainting the entire rusted frame with some fresh coats of truck bed liner : )

Photo of removed steering stem, not sure why but hope you enjoy..:




I´ve also started cleaning up my old forks. Just the uppers today: from a youtube video I watched where they only use wd40 and 1500 grit on the upper forks. here´s a before and after photo: It was really simple and I like how it looks so far but does anyone know how to remove the small black marks that I have left?

Before of Upper Forks:


After 20 minutes of wd40 and 1500 grit wetordry paper:




Here´s the current status as of 10 minutes ago of the build in my garage:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
First I yell from excitement in my garage alone.. then I blow up a needle bearing. This is how my day went today.

IT FELT SO DANG GOOD! After lathering myself in PB Blaster and wrestling these damn side links for a week, it´s done : )

Photo of components just after popping off the side links:


But then I got a little carried away with the swing arm...
I wanted to remove all the needle bearings prior to soaking the swing arm in degreaser to clean and repaint it...

As you can see, went smoothly at first with a 19mm socket, extension and hammer (this is my first time removing swing arm bearings so please jump in if I´m doing anything incorrectly):


But then I thought I could slide the double packed needle bearings out in the same way:



THIS DID NOT WORK (Needle bearing on socket side blew out almost all of it´s cylinder rollers, far side needle bearing still intact)...



If anyone is listening... I´m continuing to read online about this today but this is all new to me so any info at all on how you´ve experienced anything similar or how to properly remove and replace these would be greatly appreciated!! .. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My plan for the swing arm needle bearings is to keep soaking em in penetrating oil and then hope that the 19 mm socket will eventually knock em out of there. Then I buy new ones. In the meantime...

Last night and today I got to start working on restoring the lower forks:

Before photo of both lower forks:



Photo of my sanding set up. The used strips in front of each package shows approx how much I used of each grit to clean up only one of the lower forks. I had each fork sitting in a 5 gal bucket of water to help with the sanding. There was a tiny amount of Dremel use but it couldve been done entirely by hand.



Photo of first fork polished next to second fork untouched:


After Photo showing the Mag´s Aluminum Polish that I buffed in by hand:


Close up of sanded/polished forks. I swear they look better in person. Pretty happy about the results!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
More Updates!!!

In the last couple of days I managed to remove, sand, paint, and put back together my subframe/rear fender assembly and exhaust. I love how much better they look now:


Before photos of subframe assembly and exhaust from last year:







After Photos (Sanded/Painted: Reg plastic paint for fender assembly, truck bed liner for subframe, and bbq paint for exhaust)








 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Update to swingarm needle bearing removal:

The fight continues with the swingarm needle bearings...and I feel like I´m losing. This feels a lot like last week with the rear shock side links...

The last couple of days I´ve been soaking the swingarm bearing housing in pb blaster and liquid wrench. I then try hammering the double needle bearings out with the seemingly perfect fit 19 mm socket and nothing gets better...

Photos of remaining bearing sleeves left behind still stuck in place (all the innards have been removed from both bearings but I can still use my finger to rotate the ´outer bearing sleeves´ that remain in place:




I might need to come up with an alternative to my 19 mm socket..
 

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In absolute worst case / last ditch efforts where you are currently at, with home tools. I have had to use a Dremel tool and grinder stone to grind a trench thru bearing races in order to relieve them from their bores.

Sorry to say that they used to look like 'usable bearings', as in not actually rusted.
 

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You are using the wrong tool.

A socket has rounded shoulders. You are deforming the bearing cage and wedging it into the bore.

A bearing installer/remover has sharp, square shoulders to properly engage the bearing and move it.

This is called a bearing installer, but it also works as a puller with some ingenuity. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnp-08-0213?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-motion-pro&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkuv6-ZXz2wIVjcDACh2NtAqHEAQYAiABEgIKWfD_BwE This is the one I use for the 650. You'd need to check and see if the tool is the appropriate size for the 250 bearings.

To use it as a puller you need to set up a deep socket to push the bearing into. It might be hard to get yours moving if it is wedged in, but once moving it should be OK.

I'm not familiar with the dimensions of the 250, but if it all doesn't fit you can substitute some all-thread for the supplied arbor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks for both your responses! Yeah I´m struggling over here. In the last day I attempted to get my rotary tool´s small cutting wheel and grinding stone in to cut the outer bearing sleeve but it could only fit in enough to barely score the edge. I couldn´t manage to wedge a small flathead into the outer sleeve either. I just finished using a propane torch in attempts to heat up the aluminum swingarm to release what´s left of the bearings but this didn´t work either. Tom, I think you are right about me wedging the bearing cage into the bore.. I was angrily swinging at the 19mm socket a bit ago and apparently hit it a few times off axis cause it´s now lodged in the bore. I´m tired and am gonna temporarily browse klr swingarms on ebay for now while I rest..

UPDATE: After a bit of rest and then more hours in the garage...

pdwestman, the dremel seems to have worked! I managed to wedge a very fine flat head screwdriver into the scored outer sleeve of the needle bearings. Now I´ve got a bore that needs to be cleaned/deburred. Any suggestions or will honing it a tiny bit cause the replacement bearings to not fit right? Any suggestions? Here´s photos of the status:



Flat head screwdriver gutting bearing outer ring:




After photo of scuffed up bore after all bearing components were removed:



Largest intact pieces of removed swingarm bearing outer rings:
 
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