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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys new member here just picked up a 88klr 650 and it had a beat up clutch cover, long story short I bought a good condition one for my exact year and now that I install it, it seems that when I pull on the clutch lever the plates barely move and the more I pull on the lever it reaches a point where it starts compressing the plates instead of relieving the pressure. This is my first motorcycle and I am confused on what the issue could be, currently the bike has no oil and no gasket as I just changed the cover and tried to things out first. Any help would be greatly appreciated I am located in Toronto Canada
Below is a link of my YouTube that contains video of the case I put on and the older one and their clutch movement
https://youtu.be/7LJoZBobMhQ
 

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I removed the . and the - and the - and your link still did not work.

Try again?

You need to re-adjust the cable slack to minimum to achieve full stroke of the engine lever. Even the missing .020 inch of missing gasket has a MAJOR affect on total lever travel. You will need to re-adjust cable again after installing the gasket.

The way the 'hook' of the vertical shaft engages the pull pin of the clutch there is 'No Way' for the assembly to 'compress' or 'relax' the pressure plate by over-rotation. The hook would bind against the pull pin if over-rotated ( with an adjustable spanner wrench on the engine lever one can do this, manually).

I believe that I have previously measured about .040 inch / 1mm of gap between any one pair of plates with properly adjusted clutch cable, thru the filler cap. Could be as little as .020 inch / .5mm with sloppy cable adjustment. Any gap should theoretically be enough to allow clutch dis-engagement. I routinely use 2 or 3 fingers on clutch lever for gear changes and that means I'm not getting the full .040 inch of separation of the plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)

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No kidding. :)

That link went straight thru.

That is PLENTY of stroke.

Most Wet clutches need some acceleration / deceleration to come free after parking over-night. That is why we twist the throttle a couple of times with the clutch lever fully held against the handle bar, to spin the plates free. Then allow the engine to return to slow idle and then 'snick' it down into gear, should be barely any clunk or lurch.

Be careful not to snag the water pump oil seal lip with the shaft and roll the seal lip inside-out with all the test fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No kidding. :)
yes gotta be careful with the water pump seal, By the way where you able to watch both videos? As on the older clutch case I had more play as seen on the video but on the newer case I just put on It seem to barely have any movement at the same clutch setting :(
 

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I'll suggest that you are missing .020 inch of gasket, which means you loose .020 inch of plate separation unless the cable slack is re-ADJUSTED!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll suggest that you are missing .020 inch of gasket, which means you loose .020 inch of plate separation unless the cable slack is re-ADJUSTED!
That might be the case, I will try it again with the old gasket, also to re adjust the clutch cable I need to have it set where I have 1/4 inch play at the lever correct ?By the way did you see what I was mentioning earlier about the video I don’t know if I’m going crazy but it seems that the plates moved outwards then back inwards at a certain point with the clutch still pulled in 😬
 

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Think about this! The clutch should completely dis-engage the engine from the rear wheel, with ANY Complete separation of the clutch plates!

This means that if you can insert even a .002 inch feeler gauge between any 2 clutch plates you should be able to NOT Creep forward at a stop light.

I'll suggest that you put your bike together, properly adjust to a little cable slack at all steering angles and GO RIDE YOUR BIKE.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Think about this! The clutch should completely dis-engage the engine from the rear wheel, with ANY Complete separation of the clutch plates!

This means that if you can insert even a .002 inch feeler gauge between any 2 clutch plates you should be able to NOT Creep forward at a stop light.

I'll suggest that you put your bike together, properly adjust to a little cable slack at all steering angles and GO RIDE YOUR BIKE.

Allright will do thanks for the help , my bike should be up and running when my gaskets arrive In 4 days. I will keep you updated 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Think about this! The clutch should completely dis-engage the engine from the rear wheel, with ANY Complete separation of the clutch plates!

This means that if you can insert even a .002 inch feeler gauge between any 2 clutch plates you should be able to NOT Creep forward at a stop light.

I'll suggest that you put your bike together, properly adjust to a little cable slack at all steering angles and GO RIDE YOUR BIKE.
I believe you’ve fixed my problem ! I checked everything including the clutch springs and found them to be over torqued , I torqued them back down to 80 inch pound and I added the gasket this time as it arrived and voila I now see enough separation that I believe the plates can slip.
https://youtu.be/onL-cXglsRg
 

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Over-Torqueing the bolts will not over-compress the springs, as the flat washer bottoms against the bolt tower at exactly the same height.

Over-Torqueing the bolts can either strip the threads, break-off a tower or twist off a bolt head, all bad news.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Over-Torqueing the bolts will not over-compress the springs, as the flat washer bottoms against the bolt tower at exactly the same height.

Over-Torqueing the bolts can either strip the threads, break-off a tower or twist off a bolt head, all bad news.
I see , maybe something wasn’t put right because as soon as I re torqued them to spec the clutch felt way smoother, anyways thank you buddy if you ever come to Toronto let me know I’ll buy you a beer 😁
Thanks again
 
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