Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks!
Way back in 2005, I had just enough space in the container to fit my KLR, so I threw it in at last moments notice and shipped it to Italy with the rest of my family and belongings. Well, since then, it has been slowly falling apart in the barn. I decided to get it back to working order in May. My goal is to restore it to original so I can apply for vintage plates here in Italy. Less insurance costs and yearly fees. On that note, would you change the doohickey, if you knew you were only going to use it minimally (grabbing a coffee on Sundays, vintage bike rides, etc.) I bought the bike in April of 1993 with 1500 miles on it. It has now 10K.

So far, things are progressing, but few small problems.

What I've done:
1. Rebuilt carb
2. rebuilt petcock valve (added and inline filter since couldn't find those little plastic filters anywhere)
3. cleaned rust and treated tank with sealer
4. bled brakes front and back
5. changed radiator fluid
6. changed oil & filter
7. replaced turn signals since originals disintegrated under the Tuscan sun.

So here is my current problem...
Once I got it running, I was so amazed, that I left it running for a bit just to hear that unique sound we are all accustomed too. Well in my haste, I never checked the exhaust manifold bolts and where the muffler attaches to the tailpipe, and ended up with what Tom calls MNS (melted nipple syndrome) and melted a hole in the airbox. Already ordered the parts, so I'll get those items taken care of, but my problem is that the bike is still running HOT. And I mean HOT! glowing red hot at the bend in the tailpipe after just a minute or two.

Is it possible that I have the carb running too lean?
I checked the thermostat while changing the fluid and it opens at 160F correctly.
While looking in the radiator with the cap off and motor running, appears that the fluid is moving, so I am assuming the water pump and impeller are working properly. (Any other ways to check this?)

I'm back stateside in Sept. and will order the doohickey kit for a winter project, most likely.

If I can't get it going, I'll offer my rental apartment on my property to one of you able bodied KLR mechanics for two weeks at no charge to get her up and going.

Any thoughts or advice for me?
Thx in advance,
Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,011 Posts
Is your choke cable adusted TOO Loosely and the cable is UNSEATED at the handlebar lever? And when the handle bars are turned to the LEFT the cable housing Actually PULLS the cold start enrichener plunger OPEN just a 'hair'?
This can cause an ever so slightly high idle speed and the unburnt fuel to BURN in the header pipe.

It might also be PAST Time to check & adjust to the wider end of specs, the Valve tappet clearances.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
@pdwestman
I'll check those items tomorrow morning as soon as I can. It definitely seems to be idling at a higher speed than I remember from 15 years ago. And, when I start it cold, the choke didn't seem like it was doing much of anything.
As far as checking the valve clearances, that might be outta my league. I might be setting you up for a trip to Italy, haha.
Seriously though, thanks for the quick response. Keep me on your radar as I am sure I'll be having a few more questions down the road.
Thanks again,
Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
@pdwestman
Success!!!! You were spot on with your advice. Choke cable was LOOSE!!! Engine is now idling at 1200-1400. Man how I missed that sound.
Thanks for your help. Now after my 1/2 mile trip to the gate and back I noticed that the shock
Is leaking. This restoration is never ending.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top