Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 91 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a carb kit for my KLR and removed the carb to clean and re-build it. I previously had a problem with the carb leaking if I did not turn the petcock off. Cleaned the carb, blew it out with air and installed the new kit. Carb float set at 17.5mm per specifications.
I installed the carb and the bike ran much better, idled fine and ran great through out the rpm range. It still leaks fuel if the petcock is not closed.
Removed the carb and played with it on the bench with a remote fuel tank. No matter what I do, fuel comes up around the venturi needle jet and dribbles out. I checked the float valve with piece of fuel line and air pressure. It seals with air while inverted. I have started checking the carb with just water and itcontinues to leak no matter the position of the float setting. I have installed 3 new float check valve needles and it still leaks. Valve seat has been cleaned with valve lapping compound and a Q-tip mounted in a drill.
What the hell am I missing here?????? simple design. Petcock has been replaced with a no vacuum version and the upper vent line on the carb is blocked off.

Help!!!!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,601 Posts
Did you try the clear line from the bottom of the bowl, routed up along the carb, to see what the fuel level is?

I did not get your last PM; my box was full.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,319 Posts
Try some 'finer' metal polish on the Q-tips. Then try the pricey Kawasaki 16030-1057 float needle. I've read that the cheap needles can be a problem.

(The Harley Davidson Sportster Keihin CV40, float needle might be the same?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Did you try the clear line from the bottom of the bowl, routed up along the carb, to see what the fuel level is?

I did not get your last PM; my box was full.
I have not tried that yet Tom as I have the carburetor off the bike until I can get the leak stopped. I am using water from a remote tank to test with as I was really tired of smelling like gasoline. I have some clear tubing and will try that later today. I checked the float to see if it had any liquid inside of it and it does not. The float can be held underwater and it instantly pops to the top. The float needle seals with air pressure when I blow on the hose - yet I still have this leak when using the water??????

I do not see any visual cracks in the carb body. This has me stumped - I have rebuilt lots of carburetors over the years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Try some 'finer' metal polish on the Q-tips. Then try the pricey Kawasaki 16030-1057 float needle. I've read that the cheap needles can be a problem.

(The Harley Davidson Sportster Keihin CV40, float needle might be the same?)
I will try the finer metal polish today. I bought the last float needle at the Kawasaki shop. It is identical to the other 2 that I have. No change - still leaks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,319 Posts
I will try the finer metal polish today. I bought the last float needle at the Kawasaki shop. It is identical to the other 2 that I have. No change - still leaks!
Was that float needle individually bagged and tagged, complete with a bar-code by Kawasaki with the 16030-1057 number?

The shop could have purchased a bag of ten Chinese knock-offs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Was that float needle individually bagged and tagged, complete with a bar-code by Kawasaki with the 16030-1057 number?

The shop could have purchased a bag of ten Chinese knock-offs!
It was in a small zip top bag with no part number on it. Same size identical needle with a rubber pointed tip. It was $12.50 from the shop. Guess that I got took?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,319 Posts
Not entirely! The oem needle has an msrp of $37.96.

I'm uncertain if the problem with the cheap knock-offs is centering of the Viton Tip or the firmness of it.
I have noticed that the cushion spring of the knock-offs is usually quite stiffer, which one would think might close a hair sooner. (Could it cause wear to the brass seat in the long run?)

Check an HD dealer for a genuine Keihin float needle price. Late 90's Sportster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Not entirely! The oem needle has an msrp of $37.96.

I'm uncertain if the problem with the cheap knock-offs is centering of the Viton Tip or the firmness of it.
I have noticed that the cushion spring of the knock-offs is usually quite stiffer, which one would think might close a hair sooner. (Could it cause wear to the brass seat in the long run?)

Check an HD dealer for a genuine Keihin float needle price. Late 90's Sportster.
Damn that is one pricy float needle!!!! No wonder there is so many knock off's!
At this point - I would pay that price to get this resolved. I have way way way more time in it than I thought would be possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I cleaned the seat this morning with fine metal polish and a q-tip in a drill. Did it twice and polished the side walls to make sure that the needle wasn't binding. Set the float level to 17.5mm and put the bowl on.
I installed a plastic tube to the bowl bottom and opened the drain needle. Hooked the water line up and opened the valve. Water came above the top of the entire carb and drained out the clear tube!!!!

Guess that I need an OEM 16030-1057 float needle???? Holy crap!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,319 Posts
Do you still have your original 16030-1057? I seldom need to replace them. Pine-Sol will usually clean any varnish off of them & then aerosol carb cleaner rubbed around the tip with my finger tips.

Usually works, but not always.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I have now tried all 3 float needles that I have. Same results no matter what.
I adjusted the float tag both ways just trying to find a sealing point. Nope nada on that!

It certainly seems that the float is not rising enough to close the needle? It is not sticking or binding anywhere and does not have liquid in the float body? I don't understand why I can't slow it down to a dribble? The clear tube on the bowl is still showing a level that is above the top of the carburetor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,319 Posts
I've wondered if there is an 'o'-ring around the exterior of the Non-replaceable brass float valve seat?

Which might could get eaten by ethanol fuel, causing fuel seepage around the exterior of the brass seat?

Maybe a drop of Loc-Tite Wick-n-Loc or Penetrating Grade around the brass seat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Try it with the bowl off...holding up on the float or float needle. Should be able to rule out a leaking seat or a casting issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Great idea!!!! I had not thought of that yet! I simply don't understand it sealing with air pressure (breath) and not with liquid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I walked straight to the garage and tried Dan's suggestion with the bowl off. I hooked the water line up and turned it on. Good flow and I can stop it by raising the float by slight finger pressure!
I don't know why but apparently my float isn't floating in the bowl????

Hmmmmmmmmm?????? No liquid in the float chambers and I have submerged the float in a bowl of water already?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I removed the float and poured a big bowl of water. It floated on the surface for 30 minutes with no change.
I submerged the float and held it down with piece of aluminum. No bubbles at all. 30 minutes later - lifted the aluminum and the float shot to the surface. No water in either chamber?
Now I am stumped again?????
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,601 Posts
Submerge the carb, without the bowl, to the gasket line of the bowl. Does it stop the flow of water? Can you perhaps see what is going on? Can you blow air through the valve when it is submerged?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I will try that and see Tom. All that I have is black fuel line - Not sure how that I could tell if it seals? Water wouldn't come up through the needle jet with the bowl off. I watched numerous you tube video's last night and I have not found anything that I am doing wrong? I have never had this much trouble out of a single carburetor!!!!

After testing like Dan suggested with the bowl off and raising the float by finger pressure - I am really stumped! Obviously, the needle will stop the flow if the float raises. It only took light finger pressure to stop the flow when raising the float.

I have looked the float over and can not find any reason for it to be hanging on anything inside the bowl.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,601 Posts
What I'm thinking with this test is that you would be able to see if the float rises and closes the valve as you dunk it in the water. By setting up a small source of water for the fuel inlet you could see if the valve is sealing as (if) the float rises to the closed position. If it does all of that, rather than inexplicably hanging up, then the valve has to be leaking.

One needle valve might be bad, but three in a row?

And it would seem odd that the valve would seal under light finger pressure but not when closed by the pressure of rising fluid. It sounds like something is cock-eyed, kinked, or crooked.

Oftentimes becoming 'unstumped' comes from progressively verifying seemingly tiny details rather than taking anything for granted. 'See it and know it'.
 
1 - 20 of 91 Posts
Top