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Man there sure is a lot of metal in oil during break in! My book says 1st change somewhere like 5 or 600 miles. I did it at 300 and I was literally shocked with the crap I found on the filter. Everything from gasket sealer to flakes of metal. There was lots of very fine metal suspended in the oil in the drain pan. Makes me glad I did it and also think that Eagle Mike magnetic plug will pay off.
Some will say I wasted $ doing it so early as it is still wearing in, but I used Valvoline 10/40 MC oil from WalMart at a little over $4 qt. I think I will do this again every 500 miles until I stop seeing wear metal in the oil. After that switch to 100% synthetic and go the recommended distance between changes.
 

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Crud in oil

I suppose all bikes are different, but my first changes had nothing in it at all. I did it at about 400 miles, and again at about 600 miles.
 

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Man there sure is a lot of metal in oil during break in!

I think I will do this again every 500 miles until I stop seeing wear metal in the oil. After that switch to 100% synthetic and go the recommended distance between changes.
That is precisely what the oil filter is for. Did you remember to re-use the steel by-pass valve into the new oil filter?

Save those dinosaurs for later. As you will Never stop seeing the fine shiney glint in the oil when you take the oil pan outside into the sunshine.

In my opinion, there is such a thing as changing an engines oil "Too Early". Look at the ppm of wear metals from this recently re-built engine in the 100 mile and 1602 mile analysis'.
http://www.klrforum.com/663930-post91.html


Most motorcycles are of unit construction. Which means the drive clutch and transmission share the engine oil. So just let things polish in. Do your next oil change at the 2500 mile mark on the meter. And then every 3000-5000 miles thereafter. Go to page 1 of the thread and read the paragraph from BSL on a higher mileage bike.
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is precisely what the oil filter is for. Did you remember to re-use the steel by-pass valve into the new oil filter?

Save those dinosaurs for later. As you will Never stop seeing the fine shiney glint in the oil when you take the oil pan outside into the sunshine.

In my opinion, there is such a thing as changing an engines oil "Too Early". Look at the ppm of wear metals from this recently re-built engine in the 100 mile and 1602 mile analysis'.
http://www.klrforum.com/663930-post91.html


Most motorcycles are of unit construction. Which means the drive clutch and transmission share the engine oil. So just let things polish in. Do your next oil change at the 2500 mile mark on the meter. And then every 3000-5000 miles thereafter. Go to page 1 of the thread and read the paragraph from BSL on a higher mileage bike.
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html
Being it only holds 2 qts I prefer to keep clean oil in there. Oil is cheap and the less abrasives circulating for long periods of time the better. I can put clean oil in it for under $10.00 . Less than $4 more for a new Hiflofiltro filter for a grand total of under $15 so why let it go 2500 miles??
 

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Two & a half quarts to fill up. And over changing the engine oil really doesn't help the engine to last any longer.

Do you realize that the KLR oil filter system can't filter 100% of its oil? And it can be rather easily modified to do so?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Two & a half quarts to fill up. And over changing the engine oil really doesn't help the engine to last any longer.

Do you realize that the KLR oil filter system can't filter 100% of its oil? And it can be rather easily modified to do so?
Actually mine took 2.2 qts to refill and not 2.5. I believe there is a good argument for early oil changes during break in.. No one will ever get me to believe that dumping oil full of wear metal and replacing with clean fresh new oil doesn't extend engine life... After all the parts are worn in and polished to the point that wear is then minimal, THEN I believe one might be wasting $ by changing much more frequently than factory specified intervals.. If what you say is in fact true about the engine not being able to cycle all it's oil through the filter, then in fact I argue that indeed my early changing is helping to extend my engine's life.. The argument against it sounds like what I hear from my ultra liberal save the whales sister out in So Cal.. Like I said, for under $10 for Valvoline 10W40 Motorcycle Oil WHY NOT?? Besides, I like to change oil.
 

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While I doubt you're extending engine life much by changing oil earlier than 2000 - 3000 miles, there is no downside other than minimal cost and time......well except for the increased chance of screwing up the weak oil drain plug threads. ;-)

As far as oil level goes, IGNORE the amount you take out/put in and just fill to the very top of the sightglass - you never get ALL the oil out anyhow.


Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
While I doubt you're extending engine life much by changing oil earlier than 2000 - 3000 miles, there is no downside other than minimal cost and time......well except for the increased chance of screwing up the weak oil drain plug threads. ;-)

As far as oil level goes, IGNORE the amount you take out/put in and just fill to the very top of the sightglass - you never get ALL the oil out anyhow.


Cheers,
Dave
First let me say this.. I can't figure out why you keep pestering me about your claim of no real benefit from changing oil before it gets 2-3000 miles on it.. If you read the title of this post you'd have seen that it is the very first oil change and during break in.. This bike has less than 400 miles on it, which is why I'm seeing tons of glitter in the oil. I also said that I would be changing more frequently "during" break in and after it wears in and I stop seeing so much metal in the oil I would be extending the intervals... You sound like you think I've never changed oil before.. Been doing it roughly 45 years or so on everything from a minibike to a D8 dozer. In this case the book was accurate. With the bike standing plumb on the lift, it took almost exactly 2.2 qts to fill to the top of the sight glass. As for the drain threads.. I am using a torque wrench and torquing to 15 ftlbs. If they strip I'll be fixing it then dumping it for a Honda.
 

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First let me say this.. I can't figure out why you keep pestering me about your claim of no real benefit from changing oil before it gets 2-3000 miles on it.. If you read the title of this post you'd have seen that it is the very first oil change and during break in.. This bike has less than 400 miles on it, which is why I'm seeing tons of glitter in the oil. I also said that I would be changing more frequently "during" break in and after it wears in and I stop seeing so much metal in the oil I would be extending the intervals... You sound like you think I've never changed oil before.. Been doing it roughly 45 years or so on everything from a minibike to a D8 dozer. In this case the book was accurate. With the bike standing plumb on the lift, it took almost exactly 2.2 qts to fill to the top of the sight glass. As for the drain threads.. I am using a torque wrench and torquing to 15 ftlbs. If they strip I'll be fixing it then dumping it for a Honda.
Whoa; calm down there Paddy! LOL

"keep pestering"? This is the first response I've made in this thread.....or on this subject. I was making a simple comment AGREEING with you that earlier changes than recommended have little to no downside.

...and it's irrelevant how much oil it took; you just have to ensure it's at the top of the sightglass.....I'd hate to have somebody reading this, use volume rather than oil level. ;-)

the comment on the drain plug was a little humor at Kawi's expense due to the known issues with it.


Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Whoa; calm down there Paddy! LOL

"keep pestering"? This is the first response I've made in this thread.....or on this subject. I was making a simple comment AGREEING with you that earlier changes than recommended have little to no downside.

...and it's irrelevant how much oil it took; you just have to ensure it's at the top of the sightglass.....I'd hate to have somebody reading this, use volume rather than oil level. ;-)

the comment on the drain plug was a little humor at Kawi's expense due to the known issues with it.


Cheers,
Dave
My mistake.. Mistook you for the first guy that told me I was wasting my time and money changing before 2,000 miles You both have names starting with a P.. My apologies.
 

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Just did my first oil change at 105 miles. Saw a lot of crap in my oil too. I realize there will always be crap in the oil but I'm ok spending $15 for my sake.
 

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What ever makes you all happy. But you would truly have been better off spending that $15 on gasoline.

I hope you all attempt to keep the 'crap' from flowing down the Clean Oil Port to the Crankshaft at the 6:00 position. (I use a battery vent nipple. One could use a golf Tee.)

The 500 mile / 1000km oil change has been the industry standard for the 48 years that I have been riding and in the 42 years that I've been in the business I've seen many a Kawasaki bike and atv run twice that long before their 1st oil change.

When the engines have a spin-on oil filter most people Never see the crap inside them. And many people never take their dirty oil out into the sunshine to see the fine metallic shine, which will always be present from a shared transmission, clutch & engine oil sump.
 

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What ever makes you all happy. But you would truly have been better off spending that $15 on gasoline.

I hope you all attempt to keep the 'crap' from flowing down the Clean Oil Port to the Crankshaft at the 6:00 position. (I use a battery vent nipple. One could use a golf Tee.)

The 500 mile / 1000km oil change has been the industry standard for the 48 years that I have been riding and in the 42 years that I've been in the business I've seen many a Kawasaki bike and atv run twice that long before their 1st oil change.

When the engines have a spin-on oil filter most people Never see the crap inside them. And many people never take their dirty oil out into the sunshine to see the fine metallic shine, which will always be present from a shared transmission, clutch & engine oil sump.
I dont know will it be money wasted? I could spend thousands of dollars on farkles and never get my money back. While it may be the industry standard I dont know what the dealer/Kawasaki put in my bike.

If you want to tell me how to maintain my bike you are more than welcome to buy it from me and I'll ride it for you.
 
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