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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
copy pasting post from other site

long time lurker. been putting this off..
OK... here it goes.. i have been learning as i go and came in with no mechanical knowledge, car or otherwise. bought a clymer manual when i got a 2006 klr off craigslist. the bike wasn't running (owner stated it had sat for several months so battery would be dead and gas bad) and several red flags (oil leak, cracked coolant reservoir, faded red/pink plastic and missing all side fairings) but i still got it.. (1300..)
So let me try to list the changes I've made..(not necessarily in order but somewhat. pics pending till i get a day off later in the week)
1. new battery
2. while attempting to clean carb i stripped not only the the outer screws but the pilot jet (i think) as well. said screw it (ha) and got a refurbished one of ebay witch was great because that brings me to..
3. choke plunger was broken and zip tied originally. new carb had new choke assy included so thats fixed but i still plan on getting steady engineering something later.
4. tires were bad but the tubes were still good i got heidenau (k60s i think)
5. removed ca emissions (idk why really but it couldn't hurt right?)
6. new coolant reservoir
7. new spark plug
8. brake fluid changed
9. tried new oil plug and washer just in case (no luck but i plan on getting a soft napa washer i saw someone here mention)
10. replaced some of the fuel lines.
11. still wouldn't run so i took it into a shop and they looked it over and cleaned the carb and some stuff and got it running.
1 week later... long story short.. it fell on its left side (no side fairings) denting the radiator and fan housing. bent the fan housing back and tried it and it still wouldn't trigger
12. got new fan switch from kawa dealer seeing online not a ton cheaper. fan doesnt trigger. was about ready to try a manual fan switch.
13. ex-500 fan mod. i swapped the ex-500 blades and motor into the oem fan housing. the only problem is missing ground so be sure to add one if you do the mod.
14. after long debate on repair or new and if new mylers or china, i ended up getting a mylers rad for 200 on rocky mountain had trouble with fit and had trouble getting fan to mount to it. screwed in some and zip tied the rest and called it good. fan actuates with temp sensor.
15. raptor petcock to replace leaking petcock
now we're about present. as far as mechanical improvements.. i know i need to do the doo but im nervous.
i also just put an ims 6.6 on and painted it with truck bed liner. probably gonna add another coat.
my biggest current concerns are... leaking coolant from a few locations. thinking/hoping old hoses may be the problem and i got 3/4" heater hose and will try that on my day off. looks it may be leaking from thermostat housing and that is my bigger concern.
aaaand the oil leak...
it runs ok and temp is ok so i figure its ok(?)

should be able to get pics up wednesday

(some stuff i forgot, had 8000 miles when i got it. bolt broke off in heat pipe. stuck in there. missing oem tool kit. i would really love to replace this wiring and also replace the fuse box. interested in doing 22 cent mod or klx kit but trying to reach stability first.)
i've heard mention of a rabbit hole

Attached pre-step 11 pic

-TF
 

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Discussion Starter #2
2006 project

I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff but my question is..

Is it ok to ride with the small oil leak from drain plug?

Oil level will stay at correct level (just above sight glass while level) for days when not running and drop slowly over a few days while running.

Same for the coolant too. Operating temps are still fine, even when idling. Still gonna change the hoses and clamps though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Tom! I was interested in doing the napa rubber washer and was mostly wondering/worried about torque and in it falling out. I have seen that pic somewhere before but not the site. Very helpful. Down the line rewelding may be more solid I imagine

I had never seen the "son of stead" extension. I was looking at using the choke cable and replacing just the plastic part but, as said in the article, this is a more elegant solution.

A few more current pics of the bike

20180515_114129_1526410726430.jpg

Damn it was turned sideways..

20180515_113721_1526410834251.jpg

I removed the windshield. Still making up my mind how I feel about it.
Trying not to ride it till I get this coolant leak fixed.

And yes.. no garage. But I did get a xl walmart bike cover. 🙂
Its gonna get hot...
 

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Next time you change the oil you may want to get under there and examine the threads in the oil drain. See if there is really an issue.

This may help acquaint you with what the oil drain threads look like from the inside: I Am Joe's Crankcase

If it is not cracked, then don't weld. If the threads are badly stripped, consider a self-tapping oversize drain plug. Just be aware of what's in there - there's not a lot of meat.
 

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If one lays the bike down on its RH side, one can remove the drain plug to inspect the threads, clean the surface, replace a gasket or the plug itself. Without spilling a drop of engine oil, as it will all be in the clutch cover.

With a freshly degreased drain area, spray cheap foot powder around the area & let dry, may need a few coats. Stand the bike up. Any fluid leakage will show its ugly head fairly quickly as discolored powder.
 

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upon further inspection. haven't removed plug to inspect threads yet. but that's definitely a crack. been looking at some other threads. might try jb weld.
That sucks. :-(


....soooo common unfortunately. I won't bother repeating what was said in the other 100 threads on the subject.


Dave
 
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