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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2008 Model KLR-650 - Total LED Upgrade Mod (except headlights)

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2008 Model KLR 650 – COMPLETE LED UPGRADE MOD (except headlamps)
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Applies to 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 KLR-650

In order to save some watts to use for heated gear, or running lights, GPS and phone charging, I decided to do a complete 2008 model KLR650 LED lamp mod upgrade (except headlamps). I tested LEDs for the upgrade tonight. I started with the turn signals. I installed the new replacement "LED flasher" I bought from http://www.superbrightleds.com

Next, I installed 4 new LED turn signal lamp assemblies. I turned the bike power on and at first all 4 LED turn signals came on at the same time. From the forums, this is a known cross-over problem that requires diodes in order to isolate the current path to each side of your signal circuits, via the turn signal indicator lamp wires. If you pull the indicator lamp, the turn signals worked fine. So thinking I was going to have to install the 2 diode indicator lamp mod - to fix the problem, I broke out the soldering iron, and got set up to do the diode install. But luckily, before starting, I installed my panel dash LEDs too and took a look at them (red LEDs for my dash lights - you gotta love that!) - to my surprise, the turn signals worked fine with an LED turn signal - dash indicator lamp installed.

Here's what I believe is happening - the newly installed instrument panel LEDs I bought are polarity neutral, with diodes installed that you can actually see in the small fixture. I assume this the reason the known "turn signal panel lamp needed diodes" problem - was solved by the panel indicator LED. So apparently, by simply installing the new non polarized LED turn signal indicator panel lamp - in place of the OEM turn signal incandescent indicator lamp that comes with the bike - you will have effectively installed the 2 needed diodes to isolate your two turn signal pairs, at the same time.

Everything is working - the license plate lamp works great, the turn signals are good now, the panel lamps look good and provide that easy red light that's nice on the eyes at night, and the brake / tail lamp "WOW" assembly from happy-trails.com, is VERY bright and looks like it will give me some good protection in terms of visibility.

Super bright led part numbers and pictures for a LED upgrade are below. If you check out the pictures there are post-it notes by each lamp part - for what LED parts go to what applications - with the original part packages with number on them.

Total Watts Saved by switching to LEDs:

Turn signals 38.8 W saved (when signaling)
Lic Plate 04.5 W saved (always on)
Dash Lamps 09.4 W saved - (about half are always on - so about 04.7 W saved for the ones that are always on)
Tail Lamp 02.2 W saved (always on)
Brake Lamp 03.2 W saved (when braking)

Max - theoretical watts saved when using "everything on" = 58.1 Watts saved
Min - highway riding watts saved – when not signaling, or braking = 11.4 Watts saved
Real world commuting power savings estimate based on above ranges = 20 to 40 average Watts saved

In other words, for commuting in traffic, signaling and braking often, the wattage savings will be someplace between the min and max values. An estimate would be 20 to 40 watts total average savings while commuting.


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TURN SIGNAL LAMP LED mod and SIGNAL FLASHER UNIT mod - 2008 model KLR-650
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Watts Saved - OEM (2 x 21W) 42 watts vs. LED (1.6W x2) 3.2W = * * 38.8 Watts Saved * * (when flashers are on)
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Stock / OEM turn signal bulb type is a 1056 style – which says E4 12v PY21Watt 8G4 on it.
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Stock / OEM flasher part has the following printing: FE246BH, 066500 – 4020 12.8V 85c/m T/S (21,23,27) Wx2 H/W 21W MAX 4 BULBS. DOT
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FLASHER UNIT REPLACEMENT PART (needed to make the LEDs work) Superbright part number and link
LF1-S-FLAT - Universal Motorcycle/Scooter Flashers | $ 8.95 |
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/flashers.htm
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4 REPLACEMENT LEDS - Superbright part number and link
BAU15S-A18-T: Amber | $ 17.95
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/BAU15S-x18-T.htm
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NOTE 1: superbrightleds.com lists a even brighter option like the part above that costs more and may be worth considering. I feel the LEDs I have installed listed above, are sufficiently bright for me though – and brighter than the OEM incandescent bulbs.

NOTE 2: I tested the new turn signal LEDS with the stock KLR flasher unit and they did not work with the stock unit. I had to install the LED flasher unit part listed below to get them to work.

NOTE 3: the flasher unit was a plug and play device - it plugs right into the same socket as the OEM flasher part

NOTE 4: This setup requires current isolation of the turn signal indicator lamp wiring. For my setup, the panel light LED upgrades I used had the needed isolation diodes in the LED lamps themselves, and so I did not have to solder any new diodes into the system to isolate the two turn signal sides circuits from each other.


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LICESENE PLATE LAMP LED mod - 2008 model KLR-650
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Watts Saved - OEM 5W vs. LED 0.5W = * * 4.5 Watts saved * *
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Stock / OEM bulb is a 1156 style FA 15 S socket type – which says R5W 12v 8-9-H 87R 5 Watt on it
It's a 5 watt incandescent bulb
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REPLACEMENT LED - Superbright part number and link
1156-W12-WV: 1156 Cool White 100 Degree 2.00 | $ 6.99 |
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/115x-x12x19.htm
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NOTE: The brightness is good at night and it illuminates the plate well. I bought a brighter one too, that was too bright (see the parts picture)


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DASH INSTRUMENT PANEL LAMPS LED mod - 2008 model KLR-650
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Watts Saved - OEM (5x1.7+3.4) 11.9W vs. LED (6x0.42) = 2.5W * * 9.4 Watts saved * *
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6 OEM bulbs total – 2 types of bulbs - same style bulbs different wattages;
5 OEM at 1.7 W
1 OEM at 3.4 W
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REPLACMENT DASH PANEL INSTRUMENT LEDS - Superbright part number and link
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* * UPDATE NOTE * * regarding the Neutral LED in the Dash panel - for some reason today, during my ride, I noticed after not shifting on the highway for 10 or 20 minutes, the Neutral LED seemed to be putting off a dim light. I don't know if a voltage is building up in the circuit after some ride time while not shifting, or what is going on. When I pulled off and down shifted, the glowing dimly led went dark again. When I came up through first to start out again, it lit brightly as expected too. I will do some more research to see if I can find out why it's doing this.

WLED-R6: Red | $ 2.79 |
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/WLED-x6.htm
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WLED-W4-90: Cool White Wide 1.00 | $ 2.59 |
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/WLED-x4.htm
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NOTE: These panel LEDs are made in many different colors and led numbers and brightness's – white, red, blue, amber, green and so on. I bought more than I needed for the instrument panel, and played around with them. The white ones I used could be a bit brighter. I used white for my turn signal indicator (behind a colored lens) and white for my neutral indicator (behind a colored lens) and white for my bright beam headlamp indicator (behind a colored lens). The website says to buy the "same color LED" as the lens it will shine through, for max light transmission. So I may order some new ones, in the same colors as the lens covers for the panel indicator lights.


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"WOW" BRAKE AND TAIL LITE LED mod - 2008 model KLR-650
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OEM brake 21W vs. LED brake 16.8W = * * 3.2 Watts saved * * (when braking)
OEM tail 5W vs. LED tail 2.8W = * * 2.2 Watts saved * *
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I bought and installed the "WOW" brake and tail light mod assembly setup – it's VERY bright. And it saves you some watts over the OEM bulbs – but as importantly for me, I believe it's much brighter than a stock brake and tail light bulbs - and it flashes quickly 4 times when you apply brakes before the steady brake light comes on.
Happy Trails website WOW taillight part link:
http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650/LED-Tail-Light-Kit-WOW/KLR650.aspx
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NOTE: easy to install – had to use some scotch tape to hold it in position when putting the lens back on.
 

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I might be missing it, but which bulb did you use for the license plate light?? I could not figure that out when I bought a tail light bulb from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If you look at the original post parts picture - there's some post-it notes by the parts in the pic with what the parts go to. For the 2008 model KLR650 license plate light bulb replacement LED - it's the "1156-W12" LED part from superbriteleds.com Hope that helps. Here's the details from the order;

I don't know for certain that it's going to illuminate enough once it's installed though for light coverage, as it has a 100 degree illumination range. I think it will do just fine as it's putting out enough light - just have to test the angle. I have to put my bike back togethor to find out, but I think it will be okay in terms of the direction the light goes to illuminate the plate.

2008 KLR-650 LICENSE PLATE BULB REPLACEMENT LED LIGHT - PART DESCRIPTION
1 | 115x-x12: 12-LED BA15 Bulb | $ 6.99 |
1156-W12-WV: 1156 Cool White 100 Degree 2.00
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UPDATE: The turn signal lamp I used works great. The other one was too bright, and too big too for the lens cover. See the original post above - for the pic attached, and the details on what part I used for the plate lamp - in my notes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Weird low glow on Neutral LED today out on the highway

Does anyone have any guesses on this new LED mod issue I'm having today?

* * UPDATE NOTE * * regarding the Neutral LED in the Dash panel - for some reason today, during another cold weather test ride for my heated gear, and other new electrical mods, I noticed after not shifting on the highway for 10 or 20 minutes, the Neutral LED seemed to be putting off a dim light. Strange.

I don't know if a voltage is building up in the circuit after some ride time while not shifting, or what is going on. When I pulled off and down shifted, the glowing dimly led went dark again. When I came up through first to start out again, it lit brightly as expected too. I will do some more research to see if I can find out why it's doing this.

I may shift the Neutral indicator back to a incandescent bulb to see if that cures it. Not sure why a voltage would be there for it to start glowing dimly?
 

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Just wanted to throw this out there for anybody else that may be considering the Happy Trails Wow brake light conversion, you can also buy them directly from the fellow that manufactures them... He charges $55 US including shipping for one in the continental US... I'm not sure what Happy Trails charges to ship them but I know the product is $4 more not counting the shipping. They buy the light kits from this guy. Great fellow to deal with, I bought one from him shortly after Christmas.

http://www.razorsedgesoft.com/klr/klr650.htm
 

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Hey 650Stew, I see that the LED tail light guy also sells the replacement H7 LED headlamps. Has anyone tried them and can share how they are working? That'd really free up some watts!
 

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Hey 650Stew, I see that the LED tail light guy also sells the replacement H7 LED headlamps. Has anyone tried them and can share how they are working? That'd really free up some watts!
I only have the taillight one, but the stuff Dean builds is top notch. He designs LED lighting systems for aircraft for a living. There is a large thread on 650 net about his stuff and lots of people over there have bought from him. Here is his thread on the headlights... Looks pretty sweet! :D


http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89487&highlight=led+headlight

Personally though, I think I like the light output of the stock headlights a little better, but I live in the country with lots of critters hiding in the dark :D
 

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This morning I installed the superbrightleds.com LED turn signals and the turn signal module. Pretty easy to do. Only had to remove the windshield and loosen the instrument panel. These LED bulbs appear to be a hell of a lot brighter than the stock incandescent. No ballast needed, I have LED bulbs in the instrument panel (all except the hi beam which I just noticed during this mod...

Will try them out tonight on my commute. I feel I will be happy with this mod. Was also a good thing that I did this as I discovered a frayed wire while I had the instrument panel off. Got that fixed before it could cause a problem.
 

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I'm deciding between doing this upgrade, or purchasing the LED overhaul kit from IDABiker found here:

http://www.razorsedgesoft.com/klr/klr650.htm

Two quick questions about the install found in this thread -

1. What would happen if I install the LED Turn Signal bulbs without installing the LF1-S-FLAT: Universal Motorcycle Flasher?

2. I don't want the WOW brake light from Happy Trails. What would be the part number on superbrightleds.com for a standard LED brake light that would fit my 2011 KLR? I'm looking for something decently bright.

BTW: I installed the brake like conversion kit from Twisted Throttle [http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/4934/653/] and now I'm considering purchasing the FL2S-10A LED Brake Light Strobe Module [http://bit.ly/tVmdbc] so I can now have all THREE brake lights to modulate in sync.

Any thoughts? :)
 

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Ain't no question, the LED lights are 'way cool!

Plus, unlike incandescent lamps, the LED's last forever, right?

No criticism implied; rather, congratulations and thanks for sharing installation details. Just wondering, for comparison purposes: If increased wattage for heated accessories is the goal of the exercise, how does LEDing compare with a more robust stator?

Reckon I'm thinking Generation 1; maybe there's no such thing as a stator upgrade for Generation 2.

Again, neat work!
 

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Turn signal bulbs

For the turn signal bulbs, what is the difference between the 1056 and 1156 bulbs? I see they both have the BAU15S base. Thanks.
 

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1. What would happen if I install the LED Turn Signal bulbs without installing the LF1-S-FLAT: Universal Motorcycle Flasher?
Without the flasher unit the signals will be on as a solid light and not flash. The LED's draw so little current that they do not trip the timer circuit to make them flash. If you wish, you can only replace the fronts or the rears (leaving 1 set incandescent). This will not require the flasher unit and will also increase your flash rate. You know how your blinker rates increase when a bulb is burnt out (same as a car)? Same effect with the replacement of only the fronts or the rear blinkers.

Hope this helps
 

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Dammit, one of my Superbright turn signal bulbs is malfunctioning. Noticed today that it wasn't flashing. Pushed on it a bit, and the part with the LEDs is a bit loose from the metal base. Figured I could just super glue it back down to fully contact the base. Didn't work. Now just flashes the three on the very end, or if I push on it, some along the bottom, but not all of the bulbs will flash. It is not the socket as I checked it against the bulb from the front and that flashed just fine.

Any suggestions to keep me from dropping another $18?? :character00271:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Watts saved for heated gear - other posts have lots of info

Hey Big Bill,

I posted some info on the heated gear after I got it set up - and the watts saved - there's a "basic electrical mod" link that ties it all together too. The whole setup is working great. Can ride now even when it's darn cold.

Now to search the site for the perfect tires...
 

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Thanks for the info ADV-Moto, Iam going to do this soon. Now you have opened that can of worms,"perfect tire". I can say when I bought my bike it had Mefos front and rear, and I was very pleased with them. They would work real well on the pavement at about 30 psi rear, 26-28 psi front which is much lower than they say that they should be run at. Also worked great in loose gravel and packed dirt at the same psi. I now have Shinko? 705s front and rear they work OK on the pavement and are a little loose on the gravel and dirt. I wont buy them again, but they are a decent tire for the price. I do run these at a higher psi 35 rear and 32 or so front.
 

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hey guys I did this upgrade only down side is the indicator signal lamp is not bright enough, maybe it needs a higher wattage?
 

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LED Upgrade

I'm reading some old posts to upgrade to LEDs on my '09. I may have missed it but how did you correct the neutral switch light glow? I'm making the list of all I need. Want to be sure to be sure there's not an update I missed. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi man - sorry for the delay - I never found out why the nuetral light led it was glowing a little - no big deal I dont think. Good luck on the mods - looks like maybe a brighter turn signal led bulb is needed too! There is a post added earlier on that. Cheers, AM
 
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