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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so my brakes have recently starting making racket and I figure it's near time to swap out the the pads. I imagine it's a simple "unbolt caliper, swap pads, bolt caliper back on" procedure, but I figured I'd post and find out for sure before I do it.
Anything I should know? or just the two caliper bolts?
 

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You pretty well have it nailed down.

How many miles on them? Seems early to be changing pads already on an 09.
 

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It's hella easy. You got it. Throw some loctite on there.
 

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Ya might want to pump the brake lever / pedal a bit before the test drive. Or not. Easy to over look and very exciting when you discover you forgot......
 

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Geez... which pads to replace with....the green ones, the black ones, the OEM stock pads? Chinese pads? Sintered? Carbon Graphite Sport Brake Pads?

Whatta 'bout the rotor? Will it be eaten up like cheese with better quality brake pads?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Geez... which pads to replace with....the green ones, the black ones, the OEM stock pads? Chinese pads? Sintered? Carbon Graphite Sport Brake Pads?

Whatta 'bout the rotor? Will it be eaten up like cheese with better quality brake pads?
I was thinking about bringing that up next. So, since you brought it up, I'm assuming I could just go with OEM and be fine eh?

And ugh, I don't want to buy a new rotor. Shhh. They aint' cheap man.
 

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I bet your rotor is OK. Make sure it is in spec. I've used a few different kind of pads. The green are SWEET, but wear out fast. I'm back to the cheapies now.
 

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Just called the dealer. They want $60+ for a set of front pads. He said they also will stop better than any other non oem pads. Then....for some reason, my call dropped.
So, what should I be looking at paying for some pads? I don't know a lot about bike brake brands, so someone hook me up with das info por favor.
 

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Just called the dealer. They want $60+ for a set of front pads. He said they also will stop better than any other non oem pads. Then....for some reason, my call dropped.
So, what should I be looking at paying for some pads? I don't know a lot about bike brake brands, so someone hook me up with das info por favor.

EBC from Rocky Mt. lasting me longer then OEM, $35.99
 

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My morals prohibit me from participating in controversial threads like oil, tires, brake pads, and Anti-Christ manufactured KLR parts. So I don't contribute to the pot. I only stir it.

I've never encountered anyone who was harmed with the OEM pads.

....And all joking aside, this would be a good time to drain and flush the brake fluid on the bike. Brake fluid attracts moisture like a magnet. Moisture enters the braking system through microscopic pores in the rubber hoses, past the rubber seals on the brake caliper pistons and brake fluid reservoirs. You can tell if moisture is in the brake fluid because it turns brown or even black from the nearly clear color when it is new. Dot 4 brake fluid with only 3% water can loose as much as 50% of it braking power as measured in braking distance.

Brake fluid gets hot when riding in traffic or going downhill. The heat is generated by the friction of the brake system as well as engine heat. Water will boil / vaporize within the brake fluid if the fluid reaches the “boiling point”. That water vapor creates gas in the brake fluid system. When that happens, the brake lever / pedal won't be able to deliver the pressure necessary to compress the gas now in the brake lines [gasses, unlike fluid, can be compressed] to the level necessary to operate the brakes.

Translated to KLRese: Your desire to stop may be denied. Brake fluid is cheap. Pick a method and get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My morals prohibit me from participating in controversial threads like oil, tires, brake pads, and Anti-Christ manufactured KLR parts. So I don't contribute to the pot. I only stir it.

I've never encountered anyone who was harmed with the OEM pads.

....And all joking aside, this would be a good time to drain and flush the brake fluid on the bike. Brake fluid attracts moisture like a magnet. Moisture enters the braking system through microscopic pores in the rubber hoses, past the rubber seals on the brake caliper pistons and brake fluid reservoirs. You can tell if moisture is in the brake fluid because it turns brown or even black from the nearly clear color when it is new. Dot 4 brake fluid with only 3% water can loose as much as 50% of it braking power as measured in braking distance.

Brake fluid gets hot when riding in traffic or going downhill. The heat is generated by the friction of the brake system as well as engine heat. Water will boil / vaporize within the brake fluid if the fluid reaches the “boiling point”. That water vapor creates gas in the brake fluid system. When that happens, the brake lever / pedal won't be able to deliver the pressure necessary to compress the gas now in the brake lines [gasses, unlike fluid, can be compressed] to the level necessary to operate the brakes.

Translated to KLRese: Your desire to stop may be denied. Brake fluid is cheap. Pick a method and get it done.
I always flush and bleed when working on brakes. It's easy, cheap and not very time consuming. (insert mom joke as needed)
 

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Just called the dealer. They want $60+ for a set of front pads. He said they also will stop better than any other non oem pads. Then....for some reason, my call dropped.
That's the new BS alert system that the phone company has introduced. Good to see it's working.
 

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10k? on the bike, but I bought it at 6k and doubt they've been changed.
The stock pads should be good for more than 20K miles. The dealer isn't scamming you about the price and they are as good as any other. If they are bad then something is wrong. Look at them very closely and check all fasteners. The Kaw shop manual says that when new they should be 4.5 mm thick for the front and 5.5 mm for the rear. They should be changed when they near 1 mm thickness per the manual.

Try Bike Bandit for good diagrams and OEM parts ...
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-kawasaki-kl650e9f-klr650/o/m17947#sch579459
 

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I tend to nail the front brake HARD when farting around and the oems'
can probably do a stoppie. I just lose the nerve at the last second
and stick to wheelies n' rooster tails instead.

The occasional stairway tends to draw a look or two also. LOL

VA Trader, that line about antichrist manufactured stuff produced a nice coffee-laugh on
the monitor and keyboard. I owe ya one. LOL (just a little mist, no damage.)

CheapAndSometimesImmature
 

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The stock pads should be good for more than 20K miles. The dealer isn't scamming you about the price and they are as good as any other. If they are bad then something is wrong. Look at them very closely and check all fasteners. The Kaw shop manual says that when new they should be 4.5 mm thick for the front and 5.5 mm for the rear. They should be changed when they near 1 mm thickness per the manual.

Try Bike Bandit for good diagrams and OEM parts ...
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-kawasaki-kl650e9f-klr650/o/m17947#sch579459

Depends on how you use them, my OEM front pads were done @ 15k miles. Back pads are still OEM @ 36k miles.

I'm sounding like a Rocky Mt. ATV/MC employee (I'm not!) but they now have OEM parts at a discount and they show you what's in stock. Bike Bandit sells at list price and doesn't tell you what's in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The stock pads should be good for more than 20K miles. The dealer isn't scamming you about the price and they are as good as any other. If they are bad then something is wrong. Look at them very closely and check all fasteners. The Kaw shop manual says that when new they should be 4.5 mm thick for the front and 5.5 mm for the rear. They should be changed when they near 1 mm thickness per the manual.

Try Bike Bandit for good diagrams and OEM parts ...
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-kawasaki-kl650e9f-klr650/o/m17947#sch579459
Ah cool and thanks. That's good info I'm good then. They're just a hair squeeky under certain loads. They still stop fine and according to the specs you posted, have a fair amount of meat left. Though when I get home, I'll double check just to be safe.
 

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That's the new BS alert system that the phone company has introduced. Good to see it's working.
+1, but I'm not buying OEM anything... ever.

Does anyone know if there's another company making the OEM pads for Kawi to begin with? If that's the case, we could find the 'aftermarket' equivalent and save you guys some $$$ by effectively buying the exact same thing.
 
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