Kawasaki KLR Forum banner
81 - 99 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Did that job a couple months ago. Needless to say, I won’t be doing that again.
What rate spring did you end up going with?
I went with the 8kg which is rated for 251-350lbs. I'm about 230lbs so I figured this would handle me, panniers, and gear. Haven't been able to sit on the bike yet to see the difference, but visually compared to the stock spring, it's noticably stouter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Got a call from the machine shop today. Says the bore is good to go and the rings are gapped. Now I just need to get the head situated. The used head I bought had a bent intake valve, so I need to get in there and see if the valve guide is cracked or not. But that means I'm going to need to rent the tool to get it out. Hopefully the guide is fine, and I can just swap the valve and lap it. If not, I may as well get all the valves cut at the same time. We'll see. In the meantime, I need to do the doohickey and flush the case with kerosene just to get any contaminates that may be in there. I'm also replacing the oil line since mine had some corrosion on it. Still waiting on that to show up.
 

·
Premium Member
KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
2,405 Posts
You’re in it that far, and invested the time and money on a new piston and cylinder bore, so pay the machine shop to regrind the valve seats and valves to the same angles and depth. Have them “tip” the valve stems to restore the shim clearance to size 260 or so. Should be about $200.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,089 Posts
Many people & machine shops don't realize the importance of Narrowing the 45* valve seat surfaces to proper specs, which is only .8 - 1.2mm (.032 - .048inches) of finished width in the KLR head for both Intakes & Exhausts.
The narrow seat width yields more psi of seating pressure to ensure tighter sealing valves. Tighter sealing valves leak less / wear Less. Which means less frequent adjustments & longer service life.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I got the jug back from the machine shop Friday, need to wash it thoroughly in a bucket with soap and water as I don't have access to an ultrasonic tank anymore. I need to pick up the tool so I can swap the valves. I looked at the new head and the valve doesn't seem noticably bent, but I'm just hoping the valves guides aren't damaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
Washed the jug tonight, used nice hot water, had to dump the bucket multiple times. Once the jug was out, the bore started to flash rust. Had to use olive oil because it was the closest thing in the kitchen. After I dried the rest by hand with a paper towel, I used my air gun too dry the rest. Then put a thin film of 10w-40 inside the jug, then coated liberally with MMO to sit until I put it on the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Does anyone know if there are replacement suspension links available that aren't for lowering? I would just like some stock length links that aren't so flimsy. Everywhere I look, all I see are lowering links....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,046 Posts
The Gen 2 links are made of steel that is about 5mm thick. Hell for stout, them things are. They look cheesy, but they are very strong.

I think the hot ticket is to get a suspension knuckle and the links from a Gen 1 and stick it on the Gen 2. It restores the height and travel back to Gen 1 specifications.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DPelletier

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·
This evening, I was able to remove the bent intake valves from my "new" '06 cylinder head. I then took the valves from the original '09 head and swapped them over. Right now I'm lapping the valves, and so far so good. I've ordered valve seals, and they're on the way. I figured I'd change them while I was in there. Once those are done, I'll have to swap over the decompression linkage over to the new cam. From there, it's just a matter of assembly.
 

·
Premium Member
KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
Joined
·
2,405 Posts
You should reread post #85. You’re already this far into it, so do the job right and have a machine shop recut the valve seats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
You should reread post #85. You’re already this far into it, so do the job right and have a machine shop recut the valve seats.
I've looked into and definitely debated it, but I'm getting good results with the lapping and I don't feel that it's a necessary expenditure. Thanks though for the suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I may have a spending problem with this bike. I bought progressive fork springs for the front. I guess I just want to make this bike to be MY bike for my planned journeys. Being 230lbs, I felt like it was necessary to have adequate suspension.
 

·
Registered
2022 KLR650 - Fully loaded
Joined
·
786 Posts
I may have a spending problem with this bike. I bought progressive fork springs for the front. I guess I just want to make this bike to be MY bike for my planned journeys. Being 230lbs, I felt like it was necessary to have adequate suspension.
You’ll like the progressives, but not with the recommended 3 inch spacer.
Based on your weight, a 3.5 inch spacer might be the best length. That’s what I’m running
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,089 Posts
It looks to my long distance eye-sight that those 45* valve seat faces are about 3 Times the recommended width of .8 - 1.2mm (.032 - .048inches).

It would be best to re-cut the 60* & the 30* angles to center & narrow them. But its your job, you can do it your way, it will run anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #97 ·
It looks to my long distance eye-sight that those 45* valve seat faces are about 3 Times the recommended width of .8 - 1.2mm (.032 - .048inches).

It would be best to re-cut the 60* & the 30* angles to center & narrow them. But its your job, you can do it your way, it will run anyways.
You're probably right, but I don't think it'll make a significant difference.

Tonight I installed my 685 piston, and jeez, what a pain in the ass those spirolox retaining clips are! First time I've ever used them, had to watch a video just to see how to put them in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,089 Posts
Tonight I installed my 685 piston, and jeez, what a pain in the ass those spirolox retaining clips are! First time I've ever used them, had to watch a video just to see how to put them in.
BE GLAD that you didn't have to install the old style C-clips used on the earlier style EM & maybe still the Schnitz Racing pistons! They were STIFF!!!!!
 
81 - 99 of 99 Posts
Top