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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Al, New to the KLR by a few weeks
Bike came with a LEXX pipe and Uni Filter. Stock needle had a small washer under it. After reading a bunch, I picked up a stock 2006 KLX250S needle.
I noticed a BIG difference between the stock KLR and the new KLX needle.
The KLR has a taper and the KLX does not. I like to add a photo for you all but can not as it's only on my computer.
Just try to find out if I have the correct part or not.
Thank You for the help!!
Don
 

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Hi DJFLL! Welcome to the Forum!
This should help you out:
http://www.eaglemike.com/KLX-jet-kit-KLXJK.htm?categoryId=-1
You will need to change the main jet as well. The factory KLR main is sized for the factory KLR needle profile and will be way too rich with the KLX needle. I have a Lexx pipe and Uni filter and am running a 142 main jet at 1000 to 3000ft elevation.
Keep the link I sent. Eagle Mike is one of the best KLR specific suppliers out there. Check out the rest of his site.
Regards....justjeff

ps....Is your KLX needle tapered for part of it's length?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I'm at 900 feet above sea level. What you have your idle mixture set at?
Thanks again\Don
 

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I remember about two turns but it can vary from bike to bike. Not sure if you saw my ps....Is your KLX needle tapered? It should be to be the correct one.
Regards....justjeff
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes it is tapered, but not the extreme of the stock needle. I installed it withe the clip in the middle. Started the bike and wont idle unless on almost full choke. I would assume I need to adjust IMS.
 

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I picked up a stock 2006 KLX250S needle.
I noticed a BIG difference between the stock KLR and the new KLX needle.
Don
Is that a typo? The stock needle for a KLX250S is an NFKT. Many people who change needles on the KLR use an N1TB from early the KLX650's

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That could very well be the issue. I did try a search for the KLX needle part number with no luck. What I current have is a needle from a KLX250S p/n 16009-1912 N1TC.
 

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yes it is tapered, but not the extreme of the stock needle. I installed it withe the clip in the middle. Started the bike and wont idle unless on almost full choke. I would assume I need to adjust IMS.
The idle (or pilot) circuit has nothing to do with the needle, AFAIK.

If the bike idled before you started fooling with the carb; oughta idle now, if the carb's correctly re-assembled.

The "IMS" (idle mixture screw, or fuel screw, in the case of the CVK40) setting should be good before and after a needle transplant, seems to me; clarification and correction welcomed.

BTW, the symptom, "Won't idle unless on almost full choke," is consistent with a diaphragm air leak. Recommendation: Inspect to insure the diaphragm is fully sealed around the perimeter of the mixing chamber cap (black plastic circular cap held with four machine screws); hard to get the diaphragm lip to fit and to stay in its groove, sometimes, causing an air leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yup you got me thinkin what i missed, sure enough i forgot the vacuum hose on the petcock ( just not used to one of those) so now she runs great.
BTW I have the N1TC needle/clip at #2 with stock main of 145.
Thanks for all the info & replies!
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no only high idle in the garage a very short time ........ I feel like an idiot but oh well live and learn with a new bike!
 

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On other forums you might get flamed for making a mistake. Here we laugh along with you and remember the times we all made similar ones.:sign0173: It's part of the learning process. Glad you got it sorted out!

Ride Safe....justjeff
 
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