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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,
2011 recently developed a charging issue at 9200 miles, I replaced doohickey at 8200 miles with no issues and thermo bob done at 9000 miles with a 16t sprocket. Today key was left on for about 5 min, bike was push started and on way home would cut ignition when blinkers or high beams applied. New AGM battery installed and shows 12.6 volts engine running at 2000 rpm. I had a low beam headlight blow out about 2 weeks ago and read one forum that suggested that was a symptom of a bad regulator.
Question:
Should I now start with a regulator? Is there any way to test one on a bench?
Sorry if this question has been previously answered but I couldn't find it searching.
Wires near sprocket from stator have been visually inspected but wire sheath was not cut free to see under the sleeve.

Thanks for any and all advice,
Logan
 

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2009 KLR 650, 1978 Shovelhead
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Hello All,
2011 recently developed a charging issue at 9200 miles, I replaced doohickey at 8200 miles with no issues and thermo bob done at 9000 miles with a 16t sprocket. Today key was left on for about 5 min, bike was push started and on way home would cut ignition when blinkers or high beams applied. New AGM battery installed and shows 12.6 volts engine running at 2000 rpm. I had a low beam headlight blow out about 2 weeks ago and read one forum that suggested that was a symptom of a bad regulator.
Question:
Should I now start with a regulator? Is there any way to test one on a bench?
Sorry if this question has been previously answered but I couldn't find it searching.
Wires near sprocket from stator have been visually inspected but wire sheath was not cut free to see under the sleeve.

Thanks for any and all advice,
Logan
16 tooth sprocket done at 9000 and 200 miles later, no charging.:rolleyes: I would still suspect that the stator wires were caught in the sprocket, and were cut.

In the pic below, the stator wires are the white ones just to the left of the sprocket. It doesn't take much to have them damaged if they are not routed away from the sprocket teeth.

You can check the stator wires easily enough with a ohm meter at the voltage regulator (VR) which is mounted up under the front left side the bike. Here is a video on how to check if the stator wires are good (earlier bike with VR mounted on rear fender).
 

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You can check the stator wires easily enough with a ohm meter at the voltage regulator (VR) which is mounted up under the front left side the bike. Here is a video on how to check if the stator wires are good (earlier bike with VR mounted on rear fender).
I will suggest that the bike in that video has a BAD alternator stator, inspite of what the author says. (You might look to see if he has another video?)

He did not check ohms from the yellow wires to Ground. Any connection/continuity to Ground is BAD/Short circuited!
The AC voltage tests that he performed shows it. There should be ZERO voltage indicated between any of the 3 Yellows & Ground.

He should have tested AC Voltage between the 3 pairings of Yellow wires like he checked their ohms.
Looking for about 30 AC volts at/near idle and 40 AC volts or more @ 4000 rpm!

At least he started his testing at the Source, even if he got it wrong. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks to all, video is very helpful. Trying to get the bike rolling for a camping trip this coming weekend and won't have time for Clymer manual to get here. New regulator should be here tomorrow, hopeful.
The three yellow wires when tested at the regulator were 5v, 48v, and 7v. I have no idea if those are normal numbers or not, hard to find much info as KLR's don't seem to break down that often.
 

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The three yellow wires when tested at the regulator were 5v, 48v, and 7v. I have no idea if those are normal numbers or not, hard to find much info as KLR's don't seem to break down that often.
Did you NOT Read my post directly above? Your stator windings are FRIED!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This would be one of those cases where you can explain it to me, but you can't make me understand. Electrical is not my thing, though I accept your superior knowledge on the subject and was able to order a new stator off ebay with returns available.
For clarity, there should be no continuity between ground and the 3 yellow wires from stator and there should be voltage between paired wires on the regulator connnector?
Not trying to be difficult, just in over my head and learning as I go.
I did pop the stator cover off and inspect wires with no visible defects.
Thanks again and sorry if this isn't clicking for me.
 

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For clarity, there should be no continuity between ground and the 3 yellow wires from stator
That is correct.
Therefore there should be No Voltage (AC or DC) Indicated between yellow wires & Ground. That was his Error in the video, which you basically replicated. One YT video can lead one astray as easily as one GPS on the wrong settings.

With 48ACV on one leg (one third) of the system only, its no wonder the battery won't charge.
The 3 legs of the system can only generate about 17 amps maximum, so 1 leg of the system equals about 5.1 amps.
The headlight on High beam consumes about 6.16 amps, not counting the other lights.
 
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