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Discussion Starter #1
My 2013 lost power and died on I-5 the other night. I was out testing the clutch arm mod, new clutch springs, and crank oil restriction that I did last weekend. Unfortunately, I didn’t get far enough to see if the oil restriction reduces my quart/120 miles consumption, as I only got 27 miles down the road when it quit about 6pm.

I was cruising about 70MPH and cranked on some more throttle to pass a truck and the power didn’t increase. Instead it decreased and felt kind of like it does before it sputters to remind me that I need to switch to Reserve. So I reached down and flicked it to reserve, but the power did not come back on, instead it felt like the engine was not running at all. I pulled in the clutch and coasted onto the right shoulder. I tried to restart several times without and then with the enricher, but the most I got were a few pops and afterfires out the exhaust when using the enricher. I then pulled out my basic toolkit and did some troubleshooting and determined that the vacuum petcock was working and fuel was flowing to the carb. I even took off the tank and shook it around and unscrewed the petcock to check for any crud blocking the strainers. All clear. I checked for spark by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug boot and holding it next to the cylinder fins whilst cranking and it sparked consistently.

Well at this point it was getting toward sunset, so I threw in the towel and called for a tow truck and had it brought back to my house.

Yesterday, my brother came up to my place to use my torch and get a hand with some stuff on his car, and he and his son helped me troubleshoot and puzzle over the KLR. We checked again multiple times for fuel flow, tried squirting starting fluid into the intake a bunch of times, and stilll got the same occasional pops and after fires from the exhaust (with actual flame shooting out the FMF exhaust can). Pulled the spark plug multiple times to clean it off and check for spark, and swapped the new NGK Iridium plug I just installed for the old cruddy standard plug I had, and kept getting the same results.

When I’ve had problems like this on old cars, it almost always is that the timing is way off. But with the electronic ignition on the KLR, the timing cannot be adjusted (I have an old Sun timing light, but I haven’t tried that yet). So, I’m suspecting the igniter box or crank sensor, or coil. I have not gone through the Clymer manual troubleshooting for the ignition yet. That’s next on my list.

But I’m hoping that one of you can truncate that process by saying something like “oh yeah, I had that same problem and it turned out to be X.”

Thanks in advance.
 

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Seems strange. I'm sorry this won't help but I had problems like this before and modded to a manual petcock. The safety of the vacuum was an easy trade off for me to have one less thing go wrong. You already checked it but I don't know if something else snuck by. You could unplug the vent tubes from the carb and try to get gas to the carb manually and see if it works. I don't understand why it wouldn't run if you have spark and fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I’m having to deal with some more pressing projects this week,so I’ll have to get back to it later. I will put a timing light on it to see if the timing is in the right ballpark while cranking. Then I’ll check compression. I had to order an adapter for my compression gauge that fits the smaller plug the KLR uses. About a month ago, when I mentioned the very high amount of oil my bike uses, someone mentioned the possibility of coking the exhaust valves enough that they don’t seat fully. Just sticking my finger over the spark plug hole, the compression seems too low,
But I have to use a gauge to be sure.
 

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So far, I have caused all and or any problems mine has had. Mine is a 2018 I installed front crash bars, so tank had to come off, putting tank back on, I had a hard time with the back vac pet cock hose, so I put a longer one on. Went for a ride with wind on highway, on the way back against wind and had to pull over 4 times as the bike died and then would restart and go a little longer, I asked on this forum and got ideas, as I kinked the hose, then decided to delete the petcock vac. I just took it apart and ground down the part that opens/closes, removed spring, so its always open. ( I think that mod should be called the half beer petcock mod) as it only took the time for one half beer. Last winter in TX being about on the gulf, the humidity, caused a fuel problem. As I thought it was a record breaker to have to hit reserve at a lousy 144 miles, and that didn't do much, had to shake it side to side violently to gas station. Posted a question and was helped by a person saying needed to add a ltl dry gas every fill up, and that solved that problem, of high humidity.
Best of luck.
 

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Really hard to "jump" the initial spark timing on a KLR, PeteK; system is all mechanical and non-adjustable. Timing lump on rotor movement is picked up by a coil firing the CDI. If you get a spark, chances are ignition timing is righteous.

In my view, a conventional compression test is compromised by the Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (a controversial opinion, to some). Better, a leak-down test. Or, disable the KACR for the measurement.

With compression, combustible mixture (insured by starting fluid), and spark . . . oughta run!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The spark is consistent and bright, so I expect you’re right hat the timing is okay.

I didn’t have much time for troubleshooting last night but after I got the adapter for my compression tester yesterday, I screwed it into the spark plug hole and cranked it a few times. It didn’t even budge the needle. So it appears I have a compression problem. Now the question is why. I’m debating whether to pull offf the valve cover first and check lifter clearances, or pull off the head pipe and look in the front exhaust port. I’m expecting that burning all that oil has indeed coked up the exhaust valves. Or it could be something with the KACR.
 

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I'd stick a finger into/over the spark plug hole, before I would confirm it had nothing.

But I have seen a large chunk of dis-lodged oil carbon hold the EX valve open on low rpm operating atv engines.
 
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