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As the title states, im on a 2017 KLR650. I got the bike with about 750 miles, and through about 1k miles of riding I noticed that it was getting pretty low MPG. This was with no mods that would affect mileage, and I would typically get around 160 miles range with the oem 6 gal tank. I now have an IMS 10 gal tank and a Lectron Carb, and though I haven't truly annotated enough data to really pin down some MPG numbers, it is appearing that the bike is still guzzling an unusual amount of gas. I dont ride crazy and I have put a fair amount of highway miles on it cruising around 5-5.5k rpms. When I had the lectron installed, I made it known to have the air/fuel tuned a tad bit on the leaner side because I already had a bad experience with the bad mpg on the stock gear. Also, the idle is about 1500 +/- 200 depending on if its warmed up. Any advice on how to get to where it should be at? Which I think is easily 45 mpg and could reasonably be 50.
 

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Hi Matt, Doc here. Man I sympathize with ya. I bought a brand spankin’ new ‘09 with maybe about 5 miles on her back in ‘09. There went my reserve training check for the year lol! Followed the break in instructions, had regular services done, the whole 9yds. But like you I was only gettin about 150 miles per tank. Had her checked out from stem to stern- valves checked out, everything was good. No one knew why. I even had Ol’ Blue checked out at another place just to make sure. At the time I was commuting daily from Carson to Reno, almost all freeway, so someone recommended that I get a 16 tooth front sprocket which made for a smoother ride and picked up maybe, maybe got 8 to 10 more mpg if I remember correctly. I thought maybe it’d help makin’ her a little lighter. So got rid of that sea anchor of an exhaust and put on an FMF powercore 4. No change other than it’s quite a bit louder which helped in keepin’ me gettin run off the freeway when the bingo games end at the casinos. Drives me nuts when I hear folks gettin 50mpg plus. So I’m still tryin to accept it, and learned the hard way that when the odometer gets to about 145 miles start lookin for a gas station or else I’d be doing the heel & toe express again which trust me really sucks!

So know that you ain’t the only one with the same problem...

Doc
 

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I get 40-42mpg on my stock 2018. I put a 17 front sprocket on and no change, not up, not down from the stock 15. I just like the rpms down. Its a good gravel and tar sprocket, not good for much else. Mpg's don't change much from full townish driving to full highwayish.
 

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I would think it is because of the speed you are running. 5-5.5K RPM, that motor is working hard. There is a lot of drag with these bikes too. Also, if you have any kind of head wind, that will cut it down even more. I have a 2012 completely stock. If I run at freeway speeds for long periods of time, my mileage drops like a rock. If I keep it at 4K RPM (55-60 MPH) I can get 45-50 mpg. If I run on roads at lower speeds than that, I can get over 60. Try taking it out on a two lane road that is 55-60 MPH and see what your mileage is then.
 

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I get a pretty consistent 60 mpg if I can stay really easy on the gas (and without a headwind). I guess I'm lucky that I really don't have to hurry anywhere, and I think that the tachometer has been on the far side of 4500 rpm for a combined total of about 30 seconds in its 70K miles. For what it's worth, it's almost always been 10% ethanol, 85 octane, and elevation above 5000 feet with stock jetting.
 

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you really need to do a few trips starting with a full tank and then divide miles by fuel replaced to see where you're at.

160 miles to a full tank on your stock setup is way too low, should've been closer to 200+. besides things whomever did the carb install should have noticed, i'd look at dragging brakes.

when i'm commuting on my '00 klr with klx needle, i'm regularly above 5k rpm and still get in the high 30's to low 40's. more sedate group rides yield low 50's.
 

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2014 KLR650
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Just did a 300 mile trip on my new to me ‘14 and got 50 mpg ...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for your reports. Just went to the pump with 141 on the trip meter and replaced 4.6 gallons of fuel... Correct my math if im wrong but that is 30 mpg which awful and that can't be normal! I just don't know what it is. I failed to mention however that I am suspicious that my header gasket might need replacing, and there is also some moderate popping on shift and some very light popping at decel. I also have yet to get the valves adjusted (I know...It's a priority, I only have 2300 miles on her now). I have a tailgunner slip on exhaust with a custom fab'd mid pipe that makes it fit, but this mpg problem existed when the bike was all stock as well.
 

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Matt,
I'll ask if the lower run of your drive chain can readily be lifted with 1 finger to touch the rear tip of the rubber Underslider of the swingarm?
Next, I will ask as to what exact tire brand, model and air pressure in them both?

I've had a tourist report a 10+ mpg increase with a properly slack drive chain & proper tire pressures for the load at speed.

If you purchased the bike Used, how do you know that the previous owner Did Not mess with (mod) the carburetor?
Most carburetor mods are intended to be used with a MODIFIED/OPENED air box intake, which many owners over-look or hesitate to perform.

And have you read the threads down at the bottom of this screen?
 

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Over the years my many KLR's always got around 50 mpg , regardless of state of tune . My Africa Twin always gets low 60's and my 250 Rally always gets low 80's . Give all 3 bikes to another person and the results could be quite different.
I wouldn't think anyone could "diagnose" your problem without knowing your weight and location and riding habits ....much less the bike set-up and condition . Do you carry a pillion ? How do you check mileage ? Are you going to reserve too soon and just "think" you are only getting 150 miles per tank ? Have you cleaned the rat's nest out of the airbox ? Did the previous owner put the K&N filter in and over oil it? Did he get that chain nice and tight, tight, tight ? Did he over fill the oil when he changed it ?
Lots of things to check . Make a list . Go over the bike really well and enjoy riding it some more and keep checking the mileage . Let's hope the mileage improves and you really like the new bike .
 

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As the title states, im on a 2017 KLR650. I got the bike with about 750 miles, and through about 1k miles of riding I noticed that it was getting pretty low MPG. This was with no mods that would affect mileage, and I would typically get around 160 miles range with the oem 6 gal tank. I now have an IMS 10 gal tank and a Lectron Carb, and though I haven't truly annotated enough data to really pin down some MPG numbers, it is appearing that the bike is still guzzling an unusual amount of gas. I dont ride crazy and I have put a fair amount of highway miles on it cruising around 5-5.5k rpms. When I had the lectron installed, I made it known to have the air/fuel tuned a tad bit on the leaner side because I already had a bad experience with the bad mpg on the stock gear. Also, the idle is about 1500 +/- 200 depending on if its warmed up. Any advice on how to get to where it should be at? Which I think is easily 45 mpg and could reasonably be 50.
You definitely have something wrong. I have a 2017 that is loaded with Happy Trails panniers, crash bars, plus my 265 pound arse. It has stock jetting and gearing, no mods other than a LEXX slip-on pipe with the Quiet Tip and a Polisport front fender that reduces the crosswind effect on the road at higher speeds. I'm diligent about calculating my mileage at each fill up and average between 47 -53 mpg on a 50/50 mix of dirt roads and pavement. I burn 87 regular octane fuel and occasionally 91 no ethanol when I can get it. This is my third KLR, the first two were Gen 1s. I have always run between 3K-5K rpms but once I'm through the gears I settle in at around 3500 - 4000+- rpms. I think you're trying to drive it like a sport bike when you are really on a tractor. I used to run my ZRX at 5K - 7K but that is an in-line 4 cylinder not a single lung thumper. Just my 2cents. Cheers.
P1060014.JPG
 

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Running a 17 tooth counter sprocket. Dynojet Stage 2, K&N filter, and now air box door.

Running 80-90mph 5-6k rpm I get 38-40 mpg commuting to and from work
Running 50-60 on the back roads 3-3.5k rpm gets 50 or slightly more mpg

High rpms suck gas on a KLR.
 

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while speed, load and wind resistance all play huge factors, 30mpg means something is wrong IMO. Since you have a Lectron carb, I can't offer any jetting advice. If it was my bike, I'd put the stock carb back on and jet it with a KLX or MCP kit (dynojet kit is WAY too rich) , do the airbox mod and see.......I also have no idea what your silencer is doing to you but again, you say it was like this with the stock one. Anything internal that could cause this kind of drop, I'd expect to show itself in other ways which again, would point me back to jetting.
 

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while speed, load and wind resistance all play huge factors, 30mpg means something is wrong IMO. Since you have a Lectron carb, I can't offer any jetting advice. If it was my bike, I'd put the stock carb back on and jet it with a KLX or MCP kit (dynojet kit is WAY too rich) , do the airbox mod and see.......I also have no idea what your silencer is doing to you but again, you say it was like this with the stock one. Anything internal that could cause this kind of drop, I'd expect to show itself in other ways which again, would point me back to jetting.
...and maybe before jetting it and the airbox mod you might want to just go back to the stock configuration to get a baseline?
 

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you could but there are enough (thousands) of us running aftermarket jetting that the baselines are pretty consistent.

Dave
Yes I know but sometimes when you have many mods, like jetting, airbox mods, different gearing, aftermarket pipes, etc. already installed on an underperforming machine it can be like squeezing a balloon trying to get to the root cause. Cheers
 

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I call that the Rubik's Cube syndrome. Too many moves without taking a look from all angles once-in-a-while. Many customers bring me a bike that was running great, until they did a bunch of mods that were supposed to make it 'better', then want me to fix it...and they tossed or sold all the stock stuff....
 

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I see your point guys, but the standard KLX kit and jetting has been around for decades with thousands of us running it. He already has to change a bunch of stuff as he has an aftermarket carb so I just don't see the point to go all the way back to the stock jetting, especially since I wouldn't keep it like that. This isn't rocket science.

Dave
 
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