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On '22's, based on what I gather here and other forums dedicated to the '22, removing the snorkel and freeing up the intake AND fitting a freer flowing exhaust, will end up making your bike run lean. How much lean? Have no idea. You just end up with popping on deceleration, which means you're lean. No idea if this lean condition with closed throttle only exists with during closed throttle, whether it persists at part throttle and/or WOT. My guess is it will persist at WOT. Nobody in the world has released dyno charts with Air/fuel readings to go with it.

What we do know is fitting a freer flowing exhaust with no tune does indeed yield more power. We have a member here who has two bikes with the Yoshimura slip on exhaust with dyno runs that show power gains. Gains he can feel while riding. There is also additional gains to be had with an aftermarket fuel add on like the PC5. TeamGreen500 might chime in if he sees this post.

The Closed Loop FI system does compensate for a freer flowing exhaust, or an open intake. But only to a degree. It won't compensate for it at WOT since that is fixed. The ECM will always maintain as close to the 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio at part throttle. It will cut the fuel with closed throttle. And most likely, it will not allow anything lower than 13.5:1 air/fuel at WOT. Doesn't matter whether you have open intake, exhaust, or both. What this means is the power gains will be limited by the stock programming (ie. maintain as close to 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio).

We also have another member here who removed the snorkel, fitted a freer flowing slip on, and removed the Air Injection system to get rid of the closed throttle popping on deceleration.
 

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HOWEVER, my stock-ECU does just fine and doesn't seam any leaner than it did with the stock pipe.

Note: both bikes have a Yoshimura's RS-2 slip-on.
If memory serves, you still have the stock air box and air filter correct?

The bike with the tuner increases the fuel for a duration of time when you roll on the throttle. Kind of like the way a pumper carb works. It most likely also increases the fuel at WOT. That's why you're getting better acceleration, and that's the way to go. If your tuner were to be further tuned with the snorkel removed, and a freer flowing air filter (if you're willing to give up some filtration), you'll get more power. That requires more trips to the dyno unless someone sells a tuner with the tune already programmed in.

Unfortunately, a PC5 nowadays is $400. A direct ECM tune, if anyone ever makes one for our '22, would probably be $300.
 

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I’m not focused on gaining power, it’s more about efficiency and making it smoother.
Opening up the intake or exhaust will add power. Tuning it after these mods will add more power. Up to the limit of what the cylinder can flow. This is no different from any other bike. If you add 5 rwhp you will feel that difference and it won't hurt anything. It's ok to want more power whether it's a KLR or a CRF300 or whatever....
 

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I'm in CA so no Power Commander for me.

Fortunately, I'm quite happy with just No Snorkel, Yoshimura RS-1, and clutch switch disabled and zero fuel cut.

If you're advancing the timing, you're probably running 91 octane? I've been running 91 since new. I was also hard on the break in procedure. Mine runs wonderful. Not as great as your tuned version but so much better than stock. No backfiring whatsoever. 46-48 mpg average in mixed riding.
 

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Im sure there’s a willing klr member outside of CA who could get you one very easily.
I would, but I’m stuck in liberal Commiefornia just like you! :ROFLMAO:
Yes there is someone who offered to and I might just take him up on it. I was about to do it too, until I bypassed the clutch switch. Then I found Nirvana. At least for now. It was primarily the abrupt throttle/extreme engine braking that I wanted to cure with the Power Commander, and that's been cured and the bike is running like a champ. Awesome sound, some additional power (not as much as with a PC), no backfiring, 48 mpg average, so it's tough to justify the $400 for a PC at this point in time.

You're happy too with your Post-clutch Switch bypass, right?
 

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After viewing your post, I got impatient and decided to do the mod without his bypass plug. Working well so far (y)
There were a few hold outs on FB page. Some have come around. There is a handful who insist there is nothing wrong with the fueling program and it's all about rider skill to smooth it out. :LOL:

I think every 3-4 posts on there have been: I tried the clutch switch bypass and oh..what a difference!
 

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How exactly do you bypass the clutch switch? Or you were saying the PCV can cure that annoying abrupt throttle braking BS. You wouldn't by chance know how to cure that issue using the PCV would you? Thanks, Scott!
If all you want to do is cure the abrupt On/Off Throttle and Jake-Brake engine braking: bypass the clutch switch. Don't pay $400+ for a power commander. The PC is really only designed to add fuel and adjust timing to take full advantage of freer flowing intake and exhaust. This is the way to go for more power.

Bypassing the Clutch switch disables Closed Throttle Fuel Cut. 3D Cycle Parts sells the plug, which is out of stock. Again.
3D Cycle Parts Clutch Bypass Plug

Or do what others have done for under $1. They put a 15 Amp Fuse on the Clutch Switch Wire. Just like the video showed.
 

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If JDJetting ships to CA, I'm in. If I have to bribe someone in another state to ship me one I'll do it. ;) The product is not in their website yet.

Thank you for this update.

What's interesting is the Air/Fuel at the 6 different throttle settings to give you an idea of fuel what to expect with fuel efficiency. I'm guessing at steady state cruising of about 75 mph the A/F ratio is between 13.5 to 14:1.
 

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I’m wondering if the JDTune disabled Fuel Cut? Or if the clutch switch mod still necessary to disable fuel cut with the JDTune?

I guess I’ll find out. I’ll do a full review here. Very excited!!

Finish your rally then install the tuner. Looking forward to you findings.

KLR-Mule….do it. If this thing turns out to be a winner it may end up on back order after we tell everyone. LOL!

I’m quite sure the FB page won’t have any shortage of people against more power for their KLR. I can’t wait to have that discussion there!
 

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You will keep your Clutch switch bypassed. I asked him. Uni filter, snorkel out, clutch bypass and free flowing muffler is how they were able to get the best gains.
That’s the best news this weekend!! Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to getting this tuner on board. I also just installed the Uni Filter to replace my dirty OEM. The bike might just be this close to being perfect! And I haven’t poured half the money into it as I did the DR650!
 

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I haven’t had much luck with tuners in the past.
Anything is possible, and any plug in tuner can screw things up with the wiring. After all, it is hardwiring itself to the factory ECM.

I did have a Powercommander tuner on my VFR for 10 years and 70k miles. It never missed a beat. Prior to that I had another older PC on an older VFR and that tuner was beaten to death, bouncing around under the seat for thousands of miles (I was unaware the velcro had come unglued). It just kept on working until the connector finally disconnected. I just reconnected the harness and re-velcro'd the unit back on, and everything was good. They seem pretty tough. Also, ECM's can be replaced. It's not going to damage anything inside the engine.

With your loud backfiring on decel running at high elevation, that tuner should get rid of all that. You can adjust the tables in increments, up or down, from the base map, according to your particular application. You can contact JDJetting on their website to get more clarification. I inquired about my order and got an answer within the hour. They're very responsive.
 

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Does JD recommend deleting the o2 sensor with their tuner??
KLR-Mule, I went and read some of the FAQ's at JDJetting website on the Power Surge tuner.

It appears you can adjust fueling in all three zones of engine operation: Idle, midrange, Top End (2/3 throttle or more).
You can reduce or increase the fueling from the middle setting of #3, which is stock baseline. So you choose the zone you want to increase/decrease fuel, and go above or below #3. In theory, this should allow you to slightly increase fuel at idle speed, which in theory, will eliminate the loud popping you get from deceleration.

I don't know how this would affect the clutch switch bypass hack, and whether reconnecting the switch and thereby enabling fuel cut at closed throttle, can still be eliminated with the Power Surge tuner by simply increasing the fueling at idle by one point.
 

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It‘s going to take some time to fully understand the benefits of this gizmo. I need to see how fuel consumption is affected, and really try to get the butt dyno out of the picture by doing back to back runs, stock vs. tuned. So far, me likey!👍🏻
Garland, the part about having that extra grunt to pull 2nd gear at low speeds is really nice to have. If I don't need to drop to 1st, and I can just roll on the power without chugging too much would be sweet.

Yeah having that air box side door off is LOUD. Louder than a loud exhaust. Thank you for sharing your results. I can't wait to install mine!
 

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James, a few of us bypassed our clutch switches, which disabled the Closed Throttle Fuel Cut because the ECM is fooled into thinking clutch is always pulled in. This significantly lessened the overly strong engine braking and eliminated the jerky On/Off throttle response. So when we close the throttle to decelerate, fuel continues to flow (theoretically at idle flow).

In the chart for the Power Surge, Green/Blue (Idle) Mode setting is recommended at 3/4. If the Closed Throttle Fuel Cut is enabled in stock mode (setting 3), and the Power Surge setting in the Green/Blue (idle) Mode is set to 3/4, when the throttle is closed, will there be Fuel Cut? Or will the Power Surge when set at 3/4 at idle, maintain some fuel flow?
 
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