[OCL]

Does JD recommend deleting the o2 sensor with their tuner??

KLR-Mule, I went and read some of the FAQ's at JDJetting website on the Power Surge tuner.

It appears you can adjust fueling in all three zones of engine operation: Idle, midrange, Top End (2/3 throttle or more).
You can reduce or increase the fueling from the middle setting of #3, which is stock baseline. So you choose the zone you want to increase/decrease fuel, and go above or below #3. In theory, this should allow you to slightly increase fuel at idle speed, which in theory, will eliminate the loud popping you get from deceleration.

I don't know how this would affect the clutch switch bypass hack, and whether reconnecting the switch and thereby enabling fuel cut at closed throttle, can still be eliminated with the Power Surge tuner by simply increasing the fueling at idle by one point.

 

[Garland]

I had a great ride today and really enjoyed the JDJetting tuner. At some point I will toggle the recommended settings back and forth to stock settings so I can feel the same road back to back, stock vs. tuned. Right now it is more fun to just enjoy it!

I did several forest service roads today, which in my area (Pisgah Forest in NC) are washed out gravel with a lot of elevation changes and switchbacks. It felt like I had more grunt in second gear going around corners, whereas I used to drop into first more. On 276 and 215-which are twisty roads (lots of switchbacks) that access the Blue Ridge Parkway- I felt like I had more power and did not seem to downshift as much I usually do. I ran about 20 miles or so on the BRP which is mostly tame sweepers, and again felt like I didn’t shift as much as I have in the past. I didn’t try for top end speed, as I try to avoid interstates and both me and the bike are happier below 70.

I do think I am going to put the cover back on the airbox as the bike is noticeable louder to me, a little obnoxious, and I have the snorkel pulled anyway. I may also back off on the full open throttle tunes and see if I notice a difference. JD suggested 3 or 4 (3 being stock) and I naturally went with 4, ‘cause more is always better. The midrange is where I usually live, and that is where I am seeing the biggest gains, anyway.

It‘s going to take some time to fully understand the benefits of this gizmo. I need to see how fuel consumption is affected, and really try to get the butt dyno out of the picture by doing back to back runs, stock vs. tuned. So far, me likey!👍🏻

 

[OCL]

It‘s going to take some time to fully understand the benefits of this gizmo. I need to see how fuel consumption is affected, and really try to get the butt dyno out of the picture by doing back to back runs, stock vs. tuned. So far, me likey!👍🏻

Garland, the part about having that extra grunt to pull 2nd gear at low speeds is really nice to have. If I don't need to drop to 1st, and I can just roll on the power without chugging too much would be sweet.

Yeah having that air box side door off is LOUD. Louder than a loud exhaust. Thank you for sharing your results. I can't wait to install mine!

 

[James Dean]

The JDJetting EFI tuner for the KLR650 has 6 zones for tuning, also referred to as "Modes".

The first 5 modes are adding or reducing fuel from idle to high rpm/wide-open. The 6th mode is used as an Accelerator-pump feature, only adding extra fuel as you quickly open or snap the throttle open.

--The first 5 modes are shown on the tuner lights with the COLOR COMBINATION while riding. (In order---Green, then Yellow/Blue, then Yellow, and peak rpms is Red) If you're cruising down the road and the colors shown are green, then that is the mode that's actively engaged. The blue indicator light is only shown on the #8 position, which you see while the bike is idling.

--The NUMBER of lights shown while riding corresponds to the engine rpm (an approximate tachometer), as soon as the green/blue (idle mixture) changes to green only. An engine speed of 4000rpm+ will have 4 or more lights, 5000rpm+ has 5 lights, 6000rpm+ has 6 lights.

--Best to adjust while parked and idling- Push the MODE button one time, and the green mode light position is displayed. This is the lower rpm cruising rpm's, and light position #3 is no-change from stock. Lights higher than 3, like 3/4, 4, 4/5, 5... are richer than stock. Lower light positions are leaner (2/3, 2. 1/2) Pushing the MODE button multiple times will step thru and show each zone (mode) setting position.

--To adjust, push MODE one or more times, and then either (+) or (-) buttons to alter the setting richer or leaner in the colored mode displayed. THEN- Wait about 10 seconds and all of these settings are stored. You are free to adjust any mode during your ride, in a matter of seconds, and don't ever use a computer to download maps or to be locked out from adjusting.

 

[OCL]

James, a few of us bypassed our clutch switches, which disabled the Closed Throttle Fuel Cut because the ECM is fooled into thinking clutch is always pulled in. This significantly lessened the overly strong engine braking and eliminated the jerky On/Off throttle response. So when we close the throttle to decelerate, fuel continues to flow (theoretically at idle flow).

In the chart for the Power Surge, Green/Blue (Idle) Mode setting is recommended at 3/4. If the Closed Throttle Fuel Cut is enabled in stock mode (setting 3), and the Power Surge setting in the Green/Blue (idle) Mode is set to 3/4, when the throttle is closed, will there be Fuel Cut? Or will the Power Surge when set at 3/4 at idle, maintain some fuel flow?

 

[James Dean]

The bypass to disable Closed Throttle Fuel Cut is still a useful change. --Keep using the mod.--

The tuner's idle fuel adjustment setting (blue/green) and lower rpm (green) on the tuner is only adding a smaller percentage, and not enough to impact or improve an ECU fuel-cut situation.

 

[OCL]

Awesome! Good to get clarification. I can't wait to install my kit and do some real world testing.

 

[Reveille]

Same here. I have a box of toys needing to be installed.

 

[stolo]

I will for sure! I would have to say when I advanced the timing from 4 to 6 degrees advanced is when I really noticed the biggest difference. Now it was like night and day but I definitely noticed it for sure!!! Plus I have also been breaking mine in pretty hard. Right now I have just under 500 miles and I have noticed from bikes in the past the harder you break them in they are going to feel faster and just run better all around. This hole breaking in your bike really really soft i am just not a believer. This is actually my second 2022 KLR650 Adventure Model. I bought my first one back in Aug of 2021 and just last month I laid it down pretty good and it was totaled out by the insurance company. It had almost 2,400 miles on it. I Just bought my current Adventure KLR earlier this month!

Would you mind sharing that map file? or screenshots? I'd like to give it a try