Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

2022 MPG - Fuel Range - Aux Fuel Cells?

28K views 107 replies 38 participants last post by  tef 
#1 ·
I'm getting 50-55 mpg on the Adventure model. I have run it down to the first bar on the fuel gauge a few times now, it only took 3 gallons @ 165 miles - 3.6 gallons @ 180 miles traveled.

Has anyone run this bike out of fuel yet to see how many miles we can really get out of it?

If so, when does the fuel gauge start flashing and at what range is left at that point?

What do you use for aux fuel cells?
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
It has a 6 gallon tank. I would be surprised if you can't get 5.5 gallons out of it. A more realistic mileage figure is 45mpg. That gives a range of 250 miles. I don't believe there is any place in the CONUS and Alaska where there are more than 250 miles between fuel stops.

The longest I have run into was from Ely to Tonopah, about 170 miles. I moved gas from the KLR to a Suzuki C90 on that leg. When we filled up in Tonopah we figured out that the C90 would have made it with no added gas.

In Canada, the Trans Lab and the Dalton may have some significantly longer stretches. I have no experience with that; the Canadians won't let me in because I'm not nice. I was once heard making jokes about the Queen's bare behind...
 
#7 ·
What speeds are you riding at, 70mph+? Is the bottom run of your drive chain Loose Enough to be Gently pushed up to just gently touch the rear tip of the swingarm under-slider? Are your tires at least 32F / 30R psi?
All 3 of these things impact fuel mileage.
 
#12 ·
Has anyone run this bike out of fuel yet to see how many miles we can really get out of it?

If so, when does the fuel gauge start flashing and at what range is left at that point?
I ran it down until the fuel light was flashing and filled up right away. It took 5.1 gallons, at 254 miles. 1 gallon reserve seems about right. The new FI design and pump is supposed to allow you to use all the fuel, but I’m not interested in finding that out.
 
#21 ·
The only way to truly see if the chain is at the correct tension is by compressing the suspension all the way.
That is incorrect.
One needs to position the swingarm pivot, rear axle & engine sprocket Center-lines Straight in line.
The drive chain Needs to have about a 1/2 inch of easy freeplay at that point.
A TOO Snug drive chain can still be Forced to swing past the center-line. But that is what creates accelerated wear of the chain, sprockets & bearings, everytime you hit a bump!

Disconnecting the bottom suspension link (1 bolt & nut) is the easiest way to set that Center-line.

I will admit that I have not had the opportunity to inspect or service a 2022 KLR650, yet!
But the first half of your second statement is 100% correct.
Too loose is better than too tight
 
#24 ·
Best I can get out of my 22 is 48mpg. I ride it pretty conservatively around the 62-64mph mark. I do have a top box and two soft bag for panniers and I weigh about 240lbs. I am usually down to the last bar or light is flashing at 200 miles and I have never put more than 4.5-4.7 gal in the tank. I am hoping someone comes out with a map/tuner for it and help with the mpg. I do only run 87 octane in it.
 
#29 ·
I ran my bike until empty on purpose and filled to the bottom of the filler neck and it took 5.45 gallons. The difference is probably the pump and sending unit.

I'm consistently getting around 55mpg on the new FI KLR with over 2,000mi on the odo. That's 10mpg better than my previous 2018 KLR which is a (y) for me.
My calculations say that I should have another 70mi range when the fuel gauge starts flashing....which puts me around 320mi before the tank is bone dry empty.
I have all the smog crap deleted on my bike, which may account for a small bump in mileage.
Page 51 of owners manual states the fuel light blinks @ approx. 1 US gallon of usable fuel. Thats 55 miles of range so you would be pushing the bike the other 15 :ROFLMAO:.

I think I read/heard somewhere prelaunch that the tank was measured @ either 5.25 or 5.45 of "usable" fuel but it net the same range from the bump in economy of dfi.
 
#26 ·
I'm consistently getting around 55mpg on the new FI KLR with over 2,000mi on the odo. That's 10mpg better than my previous 2018 KLR which is a (y) for me.
My calculations say that I should have another 70mi range when the fuel gauge starts flashing....which puts me around 320mi before the tank is bone dry empty.
I have all the smog crap deleted on my bike, which may account for a small bump in mileage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MN Willie
#34 ·
Just did the math and I'm getting 48.79 mpg on my Gen3. I do ride her pretty hard and usually carry quite a bit of weight. My typical highway/interstate speed is around 75mph and do like to accelerate quickly.

I have a total of 1825 miles on her. Actually today is our two month anniversary. Even though it was 14 degrees I took her on a ride to celebrate.

I am curious as to how much my mpg will change once I figure out how to remove the stock front sprocket and put on the 16 tooth sprocket.
 
#35 ·
I just changed my front sprocket to a 16tooth on my gen3. First thing I can tell you is that your speedometer will probably be correct after. Right now its probably showing 10% faster than what you're actually going. Your 75mph might actually be 68.5mph... And your 48.79mpg might really be 43mpg or whatever... If that makes sense? So after the sprocket change Your gas mileage might appear to not change but in actuality might increase 10% because The rpms are reduced & you're actually going the correct speed & the correct distance as measured by your bike. I'm in the middle of testing theory this out 👍
 
#36 ·
I would wager that the odometer is spot-on. The speedometer is deliberately optimistic due to the legal ramifications of it reading under-speed. See the ECE Regulation No. 39, and what's good for the goose is good for the gander so we all get the optimistic speedometers rather than just the European Union.

What I will be interested to learn is whether or not the odometer will still be accurate after changing to the 16 tooth sprocket. I remain convinced that this new speed sensor on the countershaft is a hot mess that didn't need to be.
 
#38 ·
Ditto what Tom said. The odometers on both my Gen1 and Gen2 bikes are almost exact. The speedo on my Gen1 is 10% high, and the speedo on my Gen2 is about 5% high. Changing the sprockets on Gen1 and Gen2 bikes makes no difference to the speedo or odo because they are driven by a cable from the front wheel. Only Gen3’s are affected.
 
#45 ·
Hello, I'm new to this forum, and to motorcycles in general.

I have a 2022 KLR 650, which I love, but I am unsatisfied with my MPG... even since my first newbie rides (going around 55 mph for an hour or so).

It's the base model with ABS (Tan), but I have since added the adventure package (Hard side bags, fog lights, etc).
I have about 2000 miles on her, I now ride an average speed of 75 mph commuting to work in the carpool lane for an hour, at sea level, here in San Diego.

Since day 1 I get between 35-39 mpg. I calculate the mpg by filling her up to the very top, resetting tripometer, driving 43 miles each way to work, and filling her back up to the absolute top when I return at night, dividing the miles driven by gallons purchased

I have the tires at 23 psi(front) and 30 psi (rear) close to what the manual suggested, I believe.

I fill her with 91 gasoline. I upgraded to a SW Motek skid plate and a high wind screen from VStream, but it actually didn't change my mpg average, which was disappointing at 35-39 mpg even before any add ons (adventure package, Stream windshield, etc)

I am doing EVERYTHING wrong? I appreciate suggestions to getting better MPG... gas is $6/g here in SD.

Thank you for your help.
 
#49 ·
Hello, I'm new to this forum, and to motorcycles in general.

I have a 2022 KLR 650, which I love, but I am unsatisfied with my MPG... even since my first newbie rides (going around 55 mph for an hour or so).

It's the base model with ABS (Tan), but I have since added the adventure package (Hard side bags, fog lights, etc).
I have about 2000 miles on her, I now ride an average speed of 75 mph commuting to work in the carpool lane for an hour, at sea level, here in San Diego.

Since day 1 I get between 35-39 mpg. I calculate the mpg by filling her up to the very top, resetting tripometer, driving 43 miles each way to work, and filling her back up to the absolute top when I return at night, dividing the miles driven by gallons purchased

I have the tires at 23 psi(front) and 30 psi (rear) close to what the manual suggested, I believe.

I fill her with 91 gasoline. I upgraded to a SW Motek skid plate and a high wind screen from VStream, but it actually didn't change my mpg average, which was disappointing at 35-39 mpg even before any add ons (adventure package, Stream windshield, etc)

I am doing EVERYTHING wrong? I appreciate suggestions to getting better MPG... gas is $6/g here in SD.

Thank you for your help.
That front tire air pressure isn’t helping, most recommendations will be only 2 psi difference front to rear
 
#46 ·
Averaging 55mpg on my hog (all @ 65-70mph or below). Most riding is done in hi altitude.
Here’s a couple pointers that may help ya.

For starters, I’ve removed all the Commiefornia smog $hit, including the charcoal filter apparatus and smog (air) pump. Using eagle mikes air injection block off plate.
I’ve also removed the airbox snorkel to give the beast a bit more fresh air. Make sure your keeping the air filter clean too.
Shinko 705’s all around (35psi rear & 33psi up front).
No need to run 91 octane fuel, your wasting your $. Cheap ol 87 will do the trick.
If your cruising much past 70mph on occasion, I would consider a 16T front sprocket to help lower engine rpm’s. That should help with fuel economy.
Hope this helps…
 
#48 ·
I could care less what that friggin manual says lol. Take a look at the recommended oil drain intervals, and you’ll understand why.
 
#55 ·
Cruising between 45-60 is where my KLRs seem to get their best mlg, Taller windscreens, side bags/panniers and other bulky goodies will increase drag and, in most cases, decrease mlg. My bikes, ESPECIALLY on windy days, have a bit more drag with the bags on. This is where tank bags make the most sense: they're hidden from the wind...for the most part.

I do run higher tire pressure when I want better mlg. Also, I'd run some of the more street-oriented tires if I was focused on improved commute performance/mlg. Blasting up and down the freeway isn't this bikes forte. It WILL do it; bit, it's happier cruising up-n-down the PCH. This, I know!
🤣
 
#56 ·
Blasting up and down the freeway isn't this bikes forte. It WILL do it; bit, it's happier cruising up-n-down the PCH. This, I know!
🤣
I hate cruising down PCH in SoCal. It's a zoo and filled with traffic lights, posers, and slow pokes. It's nice every 6 months or so, after that, I'm over it. :ROFLMAO: Having said that, cruising up and down Highway 1 North of Santa Barbara: SIGN ME UP! 120 miles of total bliss. North of the Bay Area is awesome too! Only around the congested areas of SoCal and Bay Area does PCH suck.

I'm getting 45 mpg on my '22 KLR. 80 mph cruising on the freeway (real speed). WOT here and there for passing on twisty roads. Spirited canyon carving. Some light off roading and around town riding. No saddlebags or top box. I've also kept to my 22/26 F/R tire inflation on Dunlop Trailmax Mission tires.
 
#60 ·
I’ve always kept my tire pressure @ 33psi front, and 35-36psi rear….regardless of where I ride. I don’t lower the tire pressure when I hit the trials. Too much of a pain.
The higher air pressure really helps with tire longevity (especially the rear) and of course fuel economy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alx_v and ZZnoTop
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top