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KLR 2014 Gen 2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got this triple accessory socket panel a while ago for some other project that never went through. Looking to install in on my KLR

Thinking about a wiring diagram. None provided. Thinking about using a switch as opposed to using a hot wire, reason being I could check battery voltage with bike not running as opposed to going the other way

This triple socket has no switch but I have a separate SPST switch I could use

What would be the best wiring diagram ? Parallel + and parallel - ?

With switch and no switch, to envision, just an enthusiast, not an electrician

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KLR 2014 Gen 2
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well

Investigating I checked out 鈥淏lue Sea鈥濃檚 products

Looks to be good. Here a photo of the wiring , would be same for our KLRs

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I think you would want to switch the supply for the panel to avoid a slow discharge of your battery when not in use.

Depending on how you use your bike, having a switch to supply power for the panel can be convenient. I have one, and I primarily use the USB plugs to charge my stuff after I get to camp. It would be best to power it from the battery via a fuse. I was lazy and used my fused 12V supply from my heated grips to power the panel. The wiring would go like Bat+ --- Fuse --- Switch --- Panel+, and then Panel Neg ---- GND.

Have to admit, I got a bit extra fancy. I had some Schottky diodes in lab stock and used two of those to provide power either from the switch in the panel or from the auxiliary circuit of my gen 1 bike. That way, the panel powers up when I turn on the ignition key, and I can also turn it on manually with the switch in the panel. The panel switch is illuminated, so it is rather obvious when I leave it on.

And in case someone is concerned about discharging the starter battery while charging gadgets: the KLR battery has about 10Ah or 120 Whr. My phone and Cardo headset need about 14 Whr for a charge from empty. With losses figured in, charging those takes about 15% of the starter battery's capacity.
 

Registered
KLR 2014 Gen 2
Joined
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you would want to switch the supply for the panel to avoid a slow discharge of your battery when not in use.

Depending on how you use your bike, having a switch to supply power for the panel can be convenient. I have one, and I primarily use the USB plugs to charge my stuff after I get to camp. It would be best to power it from the battery via a fuse. I was lazy and used my fused 12V supply from my heated grips to power the panel. The wiring would go like Bat+ --- Fuse --- Switch --- Panel+, and then Panel Neg ---- GND.

Have to admit, I got a bit extra fancy. I had some Schottky diodes in lab stock and used two of those to provide power either from the switch in the panel or from the auxiliary circuit of my gen 1 bike. That way, the panel powers up when I turn on the ignition key, and I can also turn it on manually with the switch in the panel. The panel switch is illuminated, so it is rather obvious when I leave it on.

And in case someone is concerned about discharging the starter battery while charging gadgets: the KLR battery has about 10Ah or 120 Whr. My phone and Cardo headset need about 14 Whr for a charge from empty. With losses figured in, charging those takes about 15% of the starter battery's capacity.
If you do install a switch, make sure you get a quality switch with a decent amp rating. Cheapo switches are unreliable, and a switch meant for 0.5A could melt and short.
Thanks guys

Will go the switched route. Hard not to notice the volt meter is on so it will be easy to make sure turning the panel off first thing

The switches I have are rated 20 amps , good to know

Will drill holes in a lower dash panel I already have. Then install it all

Will show results once done

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is the lower dash I got 鈥 eons ago !

Time to make it useful 鈥 moths and my cat find it not amazing stored in a closet ! 馃ぃ
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