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I think you would want to switch the supply for the panel to avoid a slow discharge of your battery when not in use.

Depending on how you use your bike, having a switch to supply power for the panel can be convenient. I have one, and I primarily use the USB plugs to charge my stuff after I get to camp. It would be best to power it from the battery via a fuse. I was lazy and used my fused 12V supply from my heated grips to power the panel. The wiring would go like Bat+ --- Fuse --- Switch --- Panel+, and then Panel Neg ---- GND.

Have to admit, I got a bit extra fancy. I had some Schottky diodes in lab stock and used two of those to provide power either from the switch in the panel or from the auxiliary circuit of my gen 1 bike. That way, the panel powers up when I turn on the ignition key, and I can also turn it on manually with the switch in the panel. The panel switch is illuminated, so it is rather obvious when I leave it on.

And in case someone is concerned about discharging the starter battery while charging gadgets: the KLR battery has about 10Ah or 120 Whr. My phone and Cardo headset need about 14 Whr for a charge from empty. With losses figured in, charging those takes about 15% of the starter battery's capacity.
 
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