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Wondering if anyone has experienced similar issues with their KLR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ltptv5vARRc&feature=youtu.be

Basically when I'm in gear and coming up to 3500 rpm my bike seems like its not getting enough fuel?
I have cleaned the air filter, I am thinking im going to have to take the carb off and clean the main jet.
Does anyone think it could be an issue with the petcock at higher rpms?
 

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kevinm219,
Have you had the top off of the carburetor? Maybe you pinched the throttle slide diaphragm upon re-assembly? Creating a vaccum leak.
More info will help, what maintainence or repairs have you recently done?
pdwestman
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't even touched the carb yet, I took the seat off to get a better look at it and noticed the bike is missing the hose for the rear tank drank. I'm pretty sure that's been missing since I bought it though and it has performed fine.

I haven't changed anything on the bike since I bought it and I was driving it to work one day and It started to act like that. I thought I was running out of gas so I went to Res and the problem followed.

I'm starting to think I should pull off the petcock and inspect it however it happens exactly at 3500 rpm in any gear.
 

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I haven't even touched the carb yet, I took the seat off to get a better look at it and noticed the bike is missing the hose for the rear tank drank. I'm pretty sure that's been missing since I bought it though and it has performed fine.

I haven't changed anything on the bike since I bought it and I was driving it to work one day and It started to act like that. I thought I was running out of gas so I went to Res and the problem followed.

I'm starting to think I should pull off the petcock and inspect it however it happens exactly at 3500 rpm in any gear.

The carb works on throttle postion not RPM. So if it indeed happens at 3.5K rpm regardless of what gear your in then it's more likely an electrical problem. Sometimes you can see arcing in the dark. Look around the coil and spark plug lead areas. May need to pull the tank to check the harness for shorts and clean the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright well.. Just to clarify a few things up. The video is the only thing I could find that replicates my problem somewhat.

When im in neutral I can bring the bike up to 5k rpm no problem. However.. 1st through 5th is the problem of when I hit 3500 RPM it starts lugging and bogging hard. The rpms start going wonky.. I am leaning toward the fuel starvation.

I took the hose from the petcock to the carb off at the petcock end and switched it to the off position. The bike was not leaking fuel. This doesnt mean that the diaphragm is beaking down inside the petcock. I do not have an inline fuel filter which is what I'm going to be doing on Payday as well as taking the carb and petcock off the bike as soon as I burn most of the gas.
 

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If your bike is acting like the one in the video, I agree with Spec, It doesn't sound like a fuel problem to me. There is a reserve of fuel in the float bowl. This would need to be consumed before the engine would falter. The misfiring would be more random vs rpm and would not be immediate after firing the bike and revving up to 3500+ rpm.
I too would be searching for an electrical short or fault.

There have been issues with the fuel petcock partially failing though, where the valve wasn't opening fully while riding, causing fuel starvation. This would be more random vs RPM, not occurring at a specific RPM each time. It would occur more in time with engine load ie:not occur during light load and showing up during heavier loading such as climbing a slope.
As to inline fuel filters....I just found the factory inline fuel filter on my 2011. It is a tiny screen filter INSIDE the plastic inlet fitting on the carb. The part the fuel line connects onto. I was not aware it is there and only found it by accident when rerouting the fuel hose while installing a manual Yamaha Raptor petcock to replace the vacuum petcock.

Hope this helps!....justjeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright thanks for the tips, I was trying to readjust my clutch cable because it has a lot of play before it would grab..

Took it for a test ride and its even worse, 1st gear your lucky if it doesnt stall now.
I did manage to get it into 2nd but by riding the clutch like noones business.
In 2nd it is happening a lot sooner now like around 2500 3k rpm.
It Died on my probably 10 times just trying to go around the block!
What have I done haha.
 

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Does it still start to falter at 3500 rpm? Will it still rev higher while in neutral or with the clutch in?
jj
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nope, Now with the clutch in I can barely rev it at all.
It dies even with the clutch in and Reving it to like 2k..
I was lucky to get it back into the garage.
When im in neutral and take off the choke im sitting at 1100-1300 rpm and I can rev it to 5k + without hesitation.
 

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You haven't been riding with the choke ON have you?
jj
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No.. I did adjust the choke cable nut on the grip although it didnt seem to do anything..
Im not sure.. Is their a factory setting for the choke adjustment? I tried bringing it all the way in but it doesnt even change the sheathing length it seems.
 

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You might try draining the float bowl. There may be some water in there. The drain is a small hex screw on the lower right side of the carb. Turn it out a couple of turns and any water accumulated in the bottom of the carb will drain. Be careful as gas will also flow out and run over the engine. The water/gas will come out the small nipple on the bottom of the floatbowl. You might put a rag under it to catch what runs out.
I do this once in a while just to see if any water is in there.
jj
 

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No.. I did adjust the choke cable nut on the grip although it didnt seem to do anything..
Im not sure.. Is their a factory setting for the choke adjustment? I tried bringing it all the way in but it doesnt even change the sheathing length it seems.
So long as you have 2-3mm of freeplay in the cable you should be fine.
What year is your bike?
jj
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I adjusted the choke lever nut a bit...
When I start the bike with full choke it idles at 3kish rpm for about 15seconds then starts dropping.. With the choke off it idles at about 1100-1300rpm.
I'm going to try emptying the bowl and seeing if their is any shit in their.
The bike is a 2007.
 

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The "choke" lever/cable pulls on a small plunger in the carb. This opens a small fuel port and an air passage allowing more fuel to richen the mixture for cold starting. So long as the cable setting isn't too tight holding the plunger off it's seat, you should be fine. I don't think it is the cause of the problem.
jj
 

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Nope, Now with the clutch in I can barely rev it at all.
It dies even with the clutch in and Reving it to like 2k..
I was lucky to get it back into the garage.
When im in neutral and take off the choke im sitting at 1100-1300 rpm and I can rev it to 5k + without hesitation.
If it revs fine in neutral and not with clutch pulled in with it in gear might check clutch switch and kickstand switch, might have been a vibration at 3500 before and now getting worse. More so the kickstand switch after further thought.
 

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Though you guys would like an update.. Looks like this bike was home to a friend over the winter as the wire shows. Anyone know where this wire is going? I am getting the clymer manual and the kawi manual tomorrow.

I took the carb off, took apart the petcock (the diaphragm is a bit worn out and im ordering a new one.. is it worth it or just go gravity), I have to order new screws for the carb bowl and the top because 1 on both corner is stripped from rust (hell of a time getting it out, thanks mastercraft stripped screw removal tool).

Also is it worth it while I have the carb off to do the .22c mod?

Thanks guys I can't wait to get this carb rebuilt (is it necessary to put seafoam in after the carb is rebuilt?) and get back on the road!
Thanks again for all the responses I will get you guys up to date.
 

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That's the temperature sensor wire.

Keep looking, if the little bastard ate that there's no telling what else he ate.

T
 

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if you have the carb off, then a full cleaning is in order, don't skimp out and put seafoam in it. Clean each jet individualy with a guitar string or similar wire. use some grease in the groove to get the rubber to stay when putting the cap back on. While you have it open i suggest you drill the slide and put a washer under the needle. If you do it right the first time you can eliminate carb problems from the discussion.
 
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